helotaxi

Technically neither of the marked port lengths is correct for the effective length. Add another half port width to config 2 to get the correct effective length.

Does the amp have dual terminals?

The "how" is easy. The real question should be "why?"

It would be fine sealed. Volume is all that matters.

Could it be built? Sure. Would it fit in your trunk? Not very likely. You're talking about and enclosure that would probably fill the back end of a large SUV.

That makes sense because when I was looking at those components they raan at a higher wattage than most coaxs. So in your opinion would I be better off with a pair of diamond audio d1 or d3 coaxs than say some pioneer or alpine coaxs? The D3 coaxs are around 60 on onlinecarstereo. I doubt that any Diamond speakers would work well off the paltry power from your headunit. If you are dead set on not getting even a small amp, you'd probably get the best results from an inexpensive set of 2-way Alpine, Pioneer or Kenwood coaxials. I'm very much of the opinion that you should add a small amp. And power handling has nothing to do usually with the power that they need to sound good. Look at the sensitivity number. That will give you better indication about how much power they're going to need. Higher the number the less power they need to give adequate output. This applies to mid and high frequency speakers, not subs.

Do yourself a favor and secure that box somehow. Nice work getting straight cuts with a jigsaw. I've seen guys posting pics over the years who used table saws and didn't get cuts that good.

Not a chance the SR would fit.

Alpine is getting into the game also with the Type-R Thin.

The Eclipse 34230 (2-channel) wasn't bridgeable and wasn't 2ohm stereo stable That makes #2 for you Anyways, to answer the original question yes you can run 2ohm per channel on the front 2 channels and 4ohm per channel on the rear 2 channels. Since you assume that isn't the series that I was thinking of...what series was I thinking of? I'd be surprised if you know. Thinking back there were several others but they were never common. I really don't know off hand. The only reason I assumed that wasn't the amp you were talking about was because that was a single model not a series, and you said series If I had to guess, I would say it was something manufactured by Blade. They seemed to do some things back in the day that were less than common. Actually the one that came to mind was the Alto full range Class D amps. I seem to recall some of the Nakamichis being only 4 ohm stable, also.

Unless you add an amp, most every component system would be a waste. Most higher end coax's would as well. Some of the less expensive coax speakers have a high enough efficiency that they can perform adequately on HU power. That said EVERY aftermarket speaker would benefit greatly from even a small outboard amp.

The Eclipse 34230 (2-channel) wasn't bridgeable and wasn't 2ohm stereo stable That makes #2 for you Anyways, to answer the original question yes you can run 2ohm per channel on the front 2 channels and 4ohm per channel on the rear 2 channels. Since you assume that isn't the series that I was thinking of...what series was I thinking of? I'd be surprised if you know. Thinking back there were several others but they were never common.

Rigidity and density have nothing to do with each other. 20 layers of MDF is no more dense than 1. HDF is more dense than MDF, that simply means that for a piece of each the same size the HDF will weigh more. Birch ply is less dense than MDF but more rigid.

Trupan is good stuff except that it is hard to come by and expensive. It bends much better than any of the others. It was developed for cabinet makers to bend around curved faces on counter pedestals and so forth.

I missed out on ordering one of these when they were still in production. I would really like to find one for the new truck. Anyone know where I could find one in really good condition? NOS anywhere?

What happened on the cutouts for the midbasses in the doors? You've got to figure out some way to make the grills not see-thru so those ragged cuts don't catch the eye so much. They really detract from an otherwise incredibly clean install. Maybe some grill cloth on the back of the grill? What part of town? I grew up in P'cola, went to pilot training there and my family is still there. You originally from that area?

No one makes a bridgeable 4 channel amp anymore? Did I miss something? I haven't seen but one series of amps in close to 20 years that wasn't 2 ohm stable in stereo.

Thanks.

The port is most active right at the tuning freq. Almost all the output from the system will be coming form the port at that freq. Box is tuned to right around 36hz, yes?

How much room is in the trunk? How big a box can you fit? I very seriously doubt that you will have room for a proper 4th order for 2 12s in that trunk.

That would be perfect since the crossovers would be bypassed anyway. It's amazing what you miss when you fall off the face of the earth for about 18 months... It's going in a '10 F-150 Lariat Supercrew.

Um...yeah. Fat fingers.

I would never use anything that doesn't have a flat back to the screw head. Deck and drywall screws don't cut it as far as I'm concerned. Those are for building boxes. Sheetmetal screws are much better for mounting speakers. They have more contact area on the speaker frame and you aren't going to distort the frame when you tighten it down.

You've been able to do that without issue for a couple decades. I know I've been doing it for over a decade without a single issue. Power cable induced noise is an old wives tale in car audio In today's systems, yes. But in the days of .5 and .25volt preouts we did see noise issues. I have been bundling my cables for years, but I still cringe in rememberance of the old days... back when Denon tape decks and CD changers were in my car... Yeah, Denon car audio. You saw noise issues back then because of the piss poor ground isolation of the input stages of the amplifiers and output stages of head units and processors. The noise was a ground loop issue, nothing more. Fixing the ground for the HU and/or amp got rid of it pretty much every time. DC cannot induce noise in AC. If preout voltage mattered you'd have extreme noise every time you turned down the volume and the RCA voltage dropped to milivolts.

It's a good balance. It holds glue well. Edges can be nicely formed with a router. It cuts very cleanly. The finished surfaces are extremely smooth which makes it nice to paint once you seal the end grain. It really isn't that strong though. You have to watch splitting it running screws into the edges or dinging up the corners by bumping it against something.