helotaxi

iPod classic through the Sync system in my new truck or Sirius.

Isn't that a database format?

The point is that with music you CAN'T keep it within its limit.

A pure SPL sub would not be able to play music. It would destroy itself.

Too bad the charts are completely wrong. They are calculated assuming that the entire diameter of the sub is usable cone area when that isn't nearly the case. They don't even really give a ballpark comparison between sub sizes either since a 1" wide surround on an 8 will have a much greater effect on Sd than a 1" surround on a 12.

Yeah, part of their LE line. They have made these awesome multichannels over the years and only build a few. But it has been a while since they have done it. I doubt that we'll see any more instant classics from them. The last two owners have done a fantastic job of destroying the brand...I really need to get my Son of Frank working right...

They should be perfect for that application. Despite all the bitching by people JL makes good subs. The only reason that they bitch is about the price or they're trying to get them to do something that they weren't intended to do.

Most of my O/S amps

If you consider being rather unsuited to a ported box "adverse" then yes, it would.

And if that doesn't scream "STEAL ME" I don't know what does.

What truck will allow that amount of mounting depth under the rear seat? Did you account for pole vent clearance with that depth?

That's not "extra" protection, that's minimum protection. If you can measure the resistance of your ground with a normal DMM, the resistance is WAY too high. From an electrical circuit standpoint, both of you diagrams are the same. If you ground the rear battery and the amps to the same point, you've taken the chassis of the car out of the equation and have achieved the same effect as grounding right to the battery terminal. The front to rear negative wire isn't needed from a circuit standpoint, but it won't hurt and depending on the car might help a decent bit. The bit from the Kinetik website is correct and basically exactly what you have drawn.

The easiest option is to reattach the factory grill.

I'm in Alamogordo, but I don't have anything installed at the moment.

Did you offer to pay for his time to travel to the post office and the time his shop had to be closed while he was there? Like I've said royal PITA for a small business. UPS, FedEx and DHL also can't ship to an APO just like they can't ship to a PO Box. They need a physical address.

That works just fine as well and is the method that I usually employ.

The reason that most companies don't want to deal with shipping to an APO is that they HAVE to go through the USPS to do so at a reasonable rate. This means a trip to the post office and customs forms, because even though it is theoretically a US address, it is located in a foreign country and customs gets involved. It also means no tracking, extra cost insurance and added expense to get the basic services that are part of the deal with UPS and FedEx. They could ship with UPS, FedEx or DHL but it would cost the same as shipping to Japan and still requires the customs considerations. The reality is that not shipping to an APO has nothing to do with supporting the troops and everything to do with managing a business. Shipping to an APO for a company is bending over backwards (or just bending over). I'm in the military myself and spent 3 years at Yokota and plenty of time in the desert. I don't take it as a lack of support when someone won't ship to APOs. I see it as a reality of doing business and trying to make a living.

Fi suggests always using a SSF. Fi suggests that because they are the ones who have to repair the drivers after some kid tries to play a 15hz tone through their sub in a box tuned to 40hz with 2.5kw on a 1kw rated driver because it impresses their friends and makes the sub move a lot. i would never try that. every time my friends are in my car there like "lets here what your sub can do" and they try to turn it up super loud and turn the bass boost on and i say your going to blow my sub then i turn the bass boost off and turn it down to 24 because my HU can go to 35 so i never turn it past 3/4 volume. Reaching for the volume in my car is a good way to lose a hand...

Yokota, Kadena or Misawa? Not that it really matters. Few companies ship or will ship via USPS because it is a total pain for them. I don't know of one. Find your local Autobacs, that's your best bet. If you want something from the States, have it shipped to a friend in the US and get them to mail it to you.

Titebond and Elmer's wood glue work better than Gorilla Glue for MDF.

Drywall screws would have held it together better, but seriously, no glue? That box was basically slapped together.

The -5 on the bass setting is killing you. Set it flat. The factory speakers should be able to handle the factory headunit with settings set flat.

Fi suggests always using a SSF. Yes, and this thread is a perfect example of why. Too many people don't know what a SSF is for and the role it CAN play in protecting your subs. Nothing is a substitute from maintaining control of the loose nut on the volume knob or understanding that when you tune high to get loud, you do so at the cost of any power handling at lower freqs. That is when you need a SSF. A properly tuned system actually meant to play music should have no use for one. Chances are that the SSF on the Alpine has more to do with the function of the amp rather than to protect subs.

And this would be a 1 ohm load, correct? Assuming that your sub is a dual two, then, yes.

ZOMG I must have destroyed my subs all these years...I've yet to run a subsonic and I've NEVER blown a speaker.