helotaxi

Blame Steve...

BURN THE HERETIC!!!!

It won't be a hit on your liscense or insurance because it isn't a traffic ticket. It's the same kind of ticket as jay-walking and has nothing to do with the car. You could get the same ticket for throwing a loud party. It's usually called "Disturbing the Peace" but it's the same thing. Basically if the cop thinks you were being too loud (stereo, yelling, etc...) he can write you a ticket. It's kind of a catch-all category. Sounds like this one was pretty unreasonable, though.

If dents aren't your problem on the sheet metal, sand blasting and fresh paint will work wonders. For the random parts you need, there is a motorcycle junkyard here in town. Almost all old Japanese bikes and lots of them. I can get you thier number and you can call and see what they have and if they will ship to you. Mr. Salvage Motorcycles (406) 761-2161

The design of the enclosure is important only in how well it works with the sub and the car to create the largest pressure wave possible at the mic location. Other than that it doesn't matter .

Standing waves in the enclosure itself are a non-issue until you get to unreasonably large enclosures that won't fit in the normal car. Standing waves in the car itself are a different story. Depending on the size of the car and the frequency, there will be several nodes in the car where there is nearly total cancellation of certain frequencies and other spot where other frequencies are boosted by constructive interference to the point that they just scream. Most cars have a frequency that shows as a huge dip in the frequency response usually in the midbass region caused by cancellation. This is caused more by unequal path lengths between multiple drivers playing the same frequencies than by standing waves. I have yet to see a car with parallel surfaces conducive to establishing a true standing wave. If you could establish a standing wave between the sub wall and the windshield (they would have to be parallel and 1/4 wavelength of the frequency that you want to tune to apart) you should be able to see a decent boost in that one freq and do pretty well on the meter. Cars are an acoustic nightmare. Unequal pathlengths and the mixture of acoustically reflective and absorbative surfaces make getting a flat frequency response quite challenging. Standing waves are really the least of your concern.

I'm having trouble with the MDF splitting when I put a screw into the end of it. I was wondering what size screw and the dia. of predrill you are using to keep this from happening. Thanks.

Pretty sure that the stuff you are talking about is glass cloth. It doesn't stretch at all, you just deform the weave of the fabric. It is used in conjunction with resin to add strength after the basic form is made with something else. Since it is maed of glass, it does turn transparent when all the air pockets in it are soaked with resin. I generally prefer it to mat when I am doing reinforcement, but it sucks for making the basic shape. To make the basic shape, you want whatever you use to be really stretchable. I personally use T-shirt material. You can stretch it enough that the wrinkles and folds end up past the base that you are working on and then just cut all the excess off when the resin has dried. This leaves you with a nice smooth shape to work with and unlike fleece, the inside is smooth as well, making it easy to add layers of glass cloth or mat to without ending up with air pockets.

W2v2??? Some new sub I'm not aware of or did you mean W3v2?

Unless you know exactly what you are doing while building and tuning that bandpass, you will basically be fumbling around in the dark and wastinga lot of wood in the process. It's not just the port lengths that you have to mess with it is the size of the chambers as well. If you don't know what you are doing, you can do some pretty serious damage to the subs and not have any clue that you are doing it. The normal signs of a distressed sub (cracking, rattling, etc...) are masked by the enclosure. It really isn't worth it.

If you have the time/patience/knowhow you can make any sub work in a bandpass enclosure (4th order or 6th order depending on the sub). But the end result is almost never worth the time and effort when compared to a simple sealed or ported setup. There ar ejust too many trade-offs when making a bandpass system. You can have good transient response and efficiency but a REALLY narrow passband. You can have a wide pass band and good transient response but terrible efficiency. To get a bandpass that sounds good and plays loud you are going to be giving up a huge portion of your car. The best sounding bandpass I have ever seen was for 4 Orion XTR15 DVC's and it took up the entire back (from 6" behind the front seats to 10" from the rear glass) of a Nissan Pathfinder. It was built to play hard rock/heavy-metal and had really bad low frequency extension because that was the trade-off to get good transient response, low group delay and excellent efficiency. Because of the music tastes of the owner he was willing to make that trade. If I were in your shoes, I would start with 1 12" (your pick as to brand, but I would think that you couldn't go wrong with a Mag or XXX) and an amp to power it. Put it in the recommended enclosure (ported probably since you are looking for output) and give it a try. It is going to flat stomp the output you are getting from the Lanzar that you have now. You will probably reach the limit of what you can stand before the sub reaches the limit of what it can give you. If you just must have more after trying out the single, then get another amp and sub.

Well it is the airtight car...

Many of you know me already from caf and SiN. Trying to broaden my horizons a bit.

Its tuned to just over 23 hz. There is a 2.5 dB peak at 25 Hz and the F3 is right at 20 Hz. Not a bad box for those at all. Have you sealed really well around the plug?

Have the same saw. Works well.

Did you get the 100HC that was buy-it-now for $240 within the last day? Orion (pre DEI)-I have never found amps like these. HCCA. I have 4 right now (225x3 and 2100) and am looking to add at least 1 more to the stable. JL-say what you want about their pricing. First I have yet to pay retail from an authorized dealer. Second, I have yet to hear a JL sub (W0 series not withstanding, cause they are poo) properly enclosed that didn't sound great. They aren't loud, but I'm a pure SQ guy so I don't really care that there are tons of subs out there that get louder. They get loud enough for me and with not a lot of power. a/d/s-I have the old (early nineties vintage) S6.2i plate sub. Two 6.5" true subwoofers on a steel plate. They are some of the best extended range woofers I have heard. They don't need a crossover on the low end and blend well with most tweets for a true 2-way system. Every component set of theirs I have heard has been amazing. AudioControl-enough said. Phoenix Gold-I am still on the hunt for a couple of the MS and MPS series amps. They pretty much set the standard for bulletproof, stable amps. Good design sonically, great execution of that design. No BS, just a solid, well built amp. Not much of a fan of the newer stuff, too much into looks and not enough into performance. Soundstream-Through the early nineties these were great amps, subs and components. Haven't tried the new stuff, but so many companies have gone south lately that I'm not holding my breath. I might be surprised, but... PPI (pre DEI)-No frills amplificaton. Ballsy amps that didn't break. Rockford-While the stuff was made in the States, it was some of the best around (amps, I never really liked their subs). The newer stuff sounds harsh to me. This is on a set of comps that were running on my 225HCCA previously. Just sounded mechanical to me. I'll wait till my XXX comes in to make a judgement about RE.

No they never need to be charged again. Check the voltage at your battery with a MM. If there is a difference between the batterya nd the cap with the car running both measured on the MM, then you are getting some loss from your wiring or your ground. Not uncommon.