helotaxi

Yep 56 or so I'm a fan of biscuits myself.

Dibs!

Anything is better than what Alpine has had out for the last 2 years. The only plus is the nice iPod interface on the '06 models. I'm slowly weaning myself away from Alpine or the need for any HU processing at all in anticipation of running everything from the factory HU in the new car because it is so fully integrated into the ergos and computer of the car. Climate, nav, etc... all integrated into the factory HU.

3/4" is sufficient 90% of the time. For those rare timese hat it isn't, you can either double up 3/4" or 1/2" or brace the 3/4". For cutting I use a table saw and sometimes a jigsaw. For speaker cutouts I use a router with a Jasper circle jig and a spiral upcut bit. For assembly I use wood glue and biscuits or dowels with clamps, or, if I'm in a hurry, wood glue and coarse thread deck screws predrilled and countersunk.

You're also assuming that the amplifier is capable of providing only half the output power into 8 ohms compared to 4. This is rarely the case. The difference might be enough to squeeze another dB out of the 8ohm driver.

Curious as to the origin of that math sense it really makes no sense because it totally fails to account for load and thus current which are vital to any electrical power calculation. According to this, 30V on the output at 14V on the input is going to be the same output wattage regardless of load on the output.

I forgot about the original JBL GTi's, the Celestion AP series, the Soundstream Reference subs and I'm sure a few more will come to me eventually.

As would my "enough or not" measurment...

My opinion, if you are using it for competion (SPL that is), test it on the actual load it will be driving. Tests into a stable load don't really matter other than giving a benchmark for general comparison. If the usage is specific, so should the test be. For basic personal enjoyment, the real test is "is it loud enough for me before audible distortion?" If the answer is "yes" the RMS power output = enough. If the answer is "no" the RMS power output = not enough. For daily use the power breakdown is really that simple: enough or not.

One piece machined Al former and cone. No adhesive needed at the T-junction, nice big heatsink, expensive as hell to do right. Lots of Al chips on the machine shop floor... Ok, I hate you all. Now I have this crazy idea running through my head of how to put the whole thing together without any adhesive at all in the area of the former, including the spider attachment...

I don't think that what he meant by linear and what you are thinking as linear are the same thing. You are talking about keeping the coil/cone centered in the basket and he is talking about the actual Cms value increasing in a geometric (therefore non linear) fashion as the cone moves away from the center point. An extended pole piece would not keep the cone centered in a fashion that would be desirable anyway. As soon as anything starts touching the moving coil, you have a serious and terminal problem.

Sounds like a plan.

Yep, I'm with you on the looks. The looks of the '07 coupe is what made me decide that I "needed" a new car in the first place. Reminds me of the last generation 300ZX which IMO is one of the best looking non-exotic cars ever made. It started off as looking for a new car for my wife. She had it in her mind that only a BMW would do until I got here to at least look at an Infiniti. Once she got to drive one and got a demo of all the little convenience features that are basically stock on the car, she was sold. She even likes the look better than the Bimmer, which I can't blame her. While we were in the dealership I sat in the coupe in the showroom and commented to her that "I could live with one of these." At that point she told me I should get one. My wife is wonderful... The HKS supercharger is on the list of upgrades that will have to happen.

Yes. And, denim, the Infiniti is at the top of the list.

I'm looking for a sporty coupe to buy around the 4th Q of '07. If this thing is out by then it is already on the short list. Looking in the $40-50k range. No more econbox on 'roids for me. Ready for some real performance (to put on 'roids). The Mustang is already totally ruled out since everyone and their dog has one. Hell, I've even seen 3 Rouschs in the last week or two around here. Liked it when hte new body came out but sick of seeing one of every 10 cars on the road. Chevy has taken to long to get the Camaro to market ruling it out as well (though I do love me a good SB Chevy). Currently the top of the short list is the '08 Infiniti G35 Coupe. The VQ-37 engine should be fun. I'll have to see what happens with te GT-R and the 350Z for '08 as well. I'd consider a Crossfire SRT-6 if I actually fit in one. BMW likes the 6 series more than I do. Holy $$$! Every review that I've read of the newer 3 and 5 Series has mentioned that the computer in the car gets too intrusive when driving hard and the automation is nonintuitive to use (nav system, climate controls, etc...). Not to mention that IMO the '07 Bimmers are UGLY. Look like a Camry. I might look at a Lexus. The Lotus Exige is on the list, too, but it is really too impractical for a DD. The Vette is in the price range but I would kick myself if I got a Vette that wasn't the Z06, which is well beyond the price I'm looking at. Any other suggestions that I should consider. Got about 6 mos to shop around before I buy. Semi thread jack I guess...

Image Dynamics IDW line. JL 8W1 The '04 RE XXX (I need a second one dammit!)

The pointof the bad connection will be the point where it melted. That is where the heat will be concentrated. Your screw holding the wire or the screw holding the fuse might have worked themselves a little loose and caused what amounts to a high resistance connection. Higher resistance with higher current means higher voltage drop at that point. Higher voltage drop with higher current means higher power lost as heat.

I would say that the meat of the post dealt with glaring generalities that do not stand up to real world scrutiny. First, what is your definition of low frequency extension? 30 Hz? If so then I have yet to see a sealed subwoofer system that could not hit 30 Hz in the car. Tuning in the 20's may sound horrible depending on the sub. It could also end up less efficient than a sealed enclosure for the same sub. Depending on the sub, you might need to tune it to the high 30's or even into the 40's to get the smoothest response from it. Also depending on the sub, you may not be able to get it to sound good in a sealed enclosure at all. If the sub wants a mid 30's tuning for best response it will have poor low frequency extension as the sub will not produce usable output below tuning. Until you talk specifics, you can't make a statement about the SQ of a particular enclosure type or tuning as it will depend totally on the sub installed in the enclosure.

Here you go... There's still an amp missing, the matching 225 for the right side. I may be switching out the 2100 for a 250 for awhile. I'm trying to get ahold of another 2100 so I can run two to the sub, one on each coil. As it is right now it blends really well with the front stage for rock and so forth but there just isn't enough for hardcore bass music and I don't want to risk the 2100 by running it @ 1 ohm. Edit: The links got clipped somehow when I copied and pasted them in. They should work now and inline images.

yeah, I had it bookmarked within 2 hours of it going up. Thanks though.

An update.

I've noticed a lot of ricers with skanks as accessories...can't look at the car couse some nappy ho is in the way. Generally not much to see on the car anyway...

What subs are going in? Please tell me that you are cutting the rings with something other than a jig saw, please... If a jigsaw is all you have, and I find that hard to believe, let me know what size you need and I'll cut them for you and round the top edge if you want and send them up your way.

Probably possible and likely prohibitively expensive. I don't know if you have ever etched a board but you usually start off with a copper clad piece of fiberglass that you mark (with a Sharpie funnily enough) where you want the traces to be and then soak it in an acid solution to remove the copper where you haven't marked. Don't remember the type of acid but it is not a normal sulfuric acid or one of the more commonly available ones because they don't react with copper (it's less reactive than hydrogen which is the ionizing agent in most acids). You would need to copper clad a piece of Lexan first. From there it would be pretty easy. Depending on how much current you plan on running, you could mask off the lexan leaving the places where you want the traces exposed and find a conductive paint and put a few layers down. Just a thought. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? I might be able to pull some other ideas out of my butt depending on your goal.