helotaxi

The word "budget" means you're fooling yourself.

Pole vents can have different effects on a sub's performance. They are not needed in all cases. It all depends on the design goal of the sub. It affects the Q of the sub and also the flux of the motor. More metal in the motor assembly for a higher B might be more important to the design of the sub than the cooling or Q effects that having a pole vent might have. Cooling can be realized in other ways and the Q can be changed other ways as well.

Use the 100hz highpass on the deck and send that signal to the 100.4 off the front amp channels. Use the crossover in the amp to divide the signal between the mids and tweets. Use the sub output set to its highest freq for the subs amp and then adjust the crossover in the amp to actually set the freq hat you want. You don't need y-cables at all.

So you can't use the HU to run your front stage active. The crossover won't help you except to limit the low end of the mids. The crossover on the Sundown will do what you need.

You're not using the HU for processing then? In that case you should be able to run a single set of RCAs to the amp and use the internal crossover on the amp. The amp will send signal to all channels from a pair of inputs.

You lived in Russia and still drink vodka available in the U.S.? That's a sad state of affairs there. I'll only drink Flagman, personally. My time over there spoiled me in a big hurry. I'll mix with American vodka, but for actual drinking, nothing over here will do. My inlaws bring me 2 bottles of the good stuff every time they come to visit. Staples for the bar for mixing: A decent vodka a decent gin a decent tequila a decent rum a spiced rum triple-sec sours mix Kaluha cola 7-up I draw the line for "decent" as not available in a plastic bottle.

You only need a fews fractions of a second to hit your peak. Only takes one battery to power the setup that long.

3-way including the subs. If the amp has a 3-way crossover built in it will say so in the manual and tell you which output is which when in that mode. Typically the mid is on the "rear" output. What are the specific parts of the setup and we might be able to give you a specific answer.

Having 3 sets of pre-outs does not mean that the unit can support a 3-way active setup without external processing. My 9856 is a perfect example. No filters on the preouts at all.

Currently have a D2 installed, but the next setup will be different. Also have 4 x SVC 4s handy as well as 3 x DVC 6.

Happy B-day. Of course now that you're over the hill you'll have to grow up and quit playing with stereos. Send all your stuff to me. I refuse to grow up.

I don't as a rule look for any one thing. It all depends on how many subs I want to run and the amp I want to run. Having multiple configs available in a line of subs is nice.

The shape shouldn't affect anything with a sub other than rigidity. Will only affect dispersion with a mid or tweet.

The good news (at least for me) is that the next run sould be out about the time I get the new car which I'm thinking is going to be all Zed amps.

My big 3 is all 1/0 and all amps are grounded back to the battery. This is the 4th or 5th setup that I've had in the car, 3rd with this HU and the first time I've had noise issues. I honestly think that the amp is messed up. I had a problem with it before that I thought I fixed. Probably going to send it back to PG for a refurb.

Well, those of you that read the build log know of he troubles I've had with my system and car. Combine that with the fact that we traded the Jeep in on the wife's new G35 and I'm left with nothing to haul stuff in. The decision has been made to sell my car and get a truck. The bad news on that is that I like driving my little go-kart and I'll miss it. The good news is that I'll finally have a truck again, I get to start from scratch on the system (some things will carry over and thus the point of this thread which I'll get to in a minute) and I'm getting a G37 at the end of the year to fill the performance car void left by by the departure of the SRT-4. Now to the point... I'm removing all the nice stuff currently in the car and I need to replace it with other stuff. I'm pretty much decided on the amp. hifisounconnection has the Kicker ZX550.3 on eBay for $230ish shipped. That will power the whole system and not limit me to a 4 ohm sub like a normal 4 channel amp would. What I'm looking for now is a set of components and a 2ohm final load sub on the cheap. They're not for me per se though I'll have to live with them for a time so they can't be total ass. I'm looking for cheap here. I need the comps to be 6.5". The sub can be a 10 or 12 but needs to work well in a small sealed enclosure and get fairly loud (target market for selling the car in mind). Known brands are also a plus so I don't have to try to convince some kid looking at the car that the speakers and subs are good. I'm considering putting 6x9s in the back and getting a 5 channel amp as well thinking about the target market, but I'll probably just stick with the front stage and sub for cost reasons. I'm going to go pretty hard core on the install, again target market. The sub will be glassed into the rear corner of the trunk (small sealed enclosure). The amp will be mounted along the opposite trunk wall with a fiberglass trim panel flushing it in. I'm leaving the current HU in the car (cause I hate it). The front speakers will be going in the pods I already have built. The tweets will go in the pillar pods if they fit and in the corner of the dash if they don't fit in the pods I already have. I'm seriously considering just leaving the Eurosports in there since I have a full set of the new Gold series for the truck already. I'm looking for ideas and suggestions. Think "mass market" rather than the net brands that we normally talk about. I want to get what I need ordered in the next week so I can get to work, get the car sold and get the truck, and then get to work on the real system.

Just making sure you weren't comparing apples and oranges.

The Optis don't suck like the Vibes do though.

That looks like a power supply MOSFET. You need to replace them all if you replace one, cause the rest are probably bad now as well.

Will the Massive run @ .5 ohm? The MMATs is optimized for .5.

You can drive a screw with a drill, you're hard pressed to drill a hole with a screwdriver, especially when it doesn't have a chuck that will hold a drillbit. Just get a cordless drill that has a clutch. I have one that I have beat on for several years that I got for less than $50.

Full sheet of MDF is just shy of 100 lbs.

What you can't see is that behind the trim panel of that radio (which isn't stock) is the good old two-shaft style holes in the metal dash.

There are about as many opinions of what sub sounds best as there are sub brands. Paired with an excellent front stage, most any sub can sound great.

So, any specs on the 12 yet? What box are you testing it in, denim?