helotaxi

Thats a pretty impressive HU then. What about other rear passangers? What are their opinions? Not to say I don't trust your family's opinion, I just know that most families don't want their child to be exposed to loud music. I don't play it very loud at all. Between 15 and 20 out of 50 on the volume.

Show your math. Remember that the only usable energy stored is that in the voltage between whatever your alt voltage rests at and the battery voltage. That's also in a perfect world where there is no ESR to worry about. I've done the math. Usable energy in a perfect world (no ESR) is 0.5 amp-seconds/Farad.

With only the stock front speakers in my truck running off HU power only, my wife has no trouble hearing it when she is in the back with the baby and is usually telling me to turn it down. Way I figure, if they mattered, they'd be in front. If the bass is that overpowering, you have too much bass anyway.

Dayton is one of the best values out there imo. I looked at the Daytons but they model VERY poorly. Mechanical power handling was about non-existent IIRC.

As efficient as they might be in a large sealed box, a proper ported box will be that much more efficient. At low freqs the ported enclosure will KILL the large sealed one. Power handling becomes a moot point as well. The ported enclosure will keep the cones well under control.

True, but I have listened to some songs that would utilize this feature, I.E., in a song, they would use fading of a gun shot going around the driver, so it would go FL, BL, BR, FR, or even just left to right kinda thing. I seriously doubt that. Left to right is nothing more than basic stereo but you would have to have surround encoding on the media for the sound to move all around you. Creative mixing can get the same effect using psychoacoustics with only two channels and a single set of speakers. Unless the media is mixed in surround and then used a format that supported it (CD, mp3, etc... do not) rear speakers add nothing but headaches when trying to get things to sound right. The more drivers you have trying to play the same signal, the harder it is to get the system from sounding like a big mess. Differing path-lengths from the different drivers cause cancellation and reinforcement at various frequencies and are nearly impossible to tune correctly. If you only have the ability to play a stereo signal, there is nothing to be gained by adding rear speakers.

Nick of Stereo Integrity speaks well of the Alpine Type R slims and the 13TW5; the Alpine for output and the JL for SQ. In fact for output he suggests the Alpine over the BM. Take that for what it's worth.

That thread is chock full of stupid on so many fronts. Typical for that forum.

Space is going to be a serious issue with the 8s. The subs are 5.25" deep, they still need room for the pole vent to breathe and room for the front end of the basket, the surround and excursion. With only 5.25" to work with, slim subs are probably going to be your best bet.

As long as you account for the fact that it *is* CCA, there's nothing wrong with it. To insist that it has to be pure copper is like insisting that the peanut butter only goes on the bottom slice of bread and the jelly on the top slice.

Take the money that you would have spent on a new amp and upgrade your electrical. At the very least you're going to want battery upgrades.

The fundamental flaw with caps is that both of those ideas are without merit. It barely holds any *usable* energy and it cannot deliver it any faster than a battery can.

It will give you the same benefit that it gives in every other scenario. None. More, bigger batteries, not caps.

Of course the level of distortion that subs put out when you really push them usually reaches up into the midrange...

Yeah and automatics are illegal yet it's legal to buy modifications to turn your gun into one. You are woefully misinformed. Fully automatic weapons are perfectly legal in most states provided you go through the proper process. It involves filling out a lot of paperwork, getting fingerprinted, undergoing an extensive background check and paying a $200 transfer fee. It has been this way since 1934. The law was modified in 1986 making it illegal to transfer an automatic firearm manufactured after '86. Conversion of a semi-automatic into an automatic is a federal felony. Possessing parts to perform such a conversion is considered constructive possession of an automatic weapon and carries the same felony penalties. It is a federal felony to sell a gun to a felon, an addict, a person ever declared mentally incompetent, convicted of committing domestic violence, illegal aliens or anyone who has been dishonorably discharged from the military. Allowing any of those people to possess a gun is also illegal. Any of those people are also committing a felony by possessing a gun. More laws make no sense. Criminals don't care about laws. You can take about 99% of what you hear in the mass media about guns and gun laws and throw it out the window because it is either simply misinformed or intentionally distorted to create a sentiment against guns. In reality a wider availability of guns and more people exercising their right to carry a gun could have cut this asshole off short. It only would have taken one person taking responsibility for his own safety rather than relying on others to provide that protection. Wouldn't have to worry about a trial or the outcome or how much it's going to cost us to try this douche. Only have to worry about burying the SOB.

Not that you wouldn't have to, more like you wouldn't be able to. If you want an idea about how much power they can take model them in WinISD in a 15cf box and see what it says. I'd be surprised if they would like 2kw.

It might work OK. They are not really well suited and power handling would be severely compromised.

The fuse rating that you use is based on wire size only. The wire size you choose is based on current requirements and length. Length is irrelevant when considering fusing. A wire's max capacity for fuse purposes is based on the amount of heat that the wire will generate and can dissipate per unit length. This is a constant regardless of length. The usable amp capacity of a wire is based on size and length. This is determined by the amount of voltage drop across its length. The voltage drop is based on the resistance per unit length. If either the length increases or the current increases, the wire size must increase to keep the voltage on the other end at a usable level.

WOW! Just, WOW! The stereo is one of the cleaner setups that I have seen in a long time. How much weight do you think that you will have added when its all said and done? Adding a supercharger to compensate?

How are your grounds set up?

That is mostly BS. The sub moves less in amplitude at higher freqs, that is true but its is moving faster because of the higher freq. Also, there is going to be less power applied there so power handling is largely irrelevant. As the coil heats up, not that it will appreciably because of a higher x-over freq, coil resistance and thus impedance is going to increase. Textbook power compression. Also because of the Le of the driver, it's natural impedance will rise with higher frequencies. Real music at sane levels makes power handling moot. Crest factor alone means that you simply aren't going to approach the limits of the sub. Using power handling concerns as a justification for lowering the crossover freq is bordering on dumb. In your case you don't have enough power on tap to even be concerned. Realize that trying to cross your subs over at 50hz is going to cut output at 30hz as well and really kind of strangle the bottom end of the system. I might recommend trying to go a little higher with a steep slope. Fair enough. I agree that you can do better, however... ...you have to pay to play. Significantly better is going to cost you. You said that you have $400? Sell the Hertz set and use that money with your $400 to buy the Clarus.

Low tuning on the sub doesn't mean that the sub won't play higher. The Le of the sub, not the tuning of the enclosure dictates high end roll-off. While it is a good goal to cross the front speakers as low as possible for point-source reasons, the difference between crossing them at 60 hz or 80 hz isn't catastrophic. As far as the reviews on the Hertz comps, without knowing the specifics of the installs for each reviewer, it's impossible to properly weight their opinion. It could well be that they were over-driving the set. The harshness could be attributed to an on-axis listening position or poor choice of installation location causing glass reflections. Too many variables. I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with those Imagine components, but if you're going to really upgrade, scrape together a little more $$ and get the Clarus set.

A pair of the SD 800.5s might be exactly what I'm looking for...

I'm not sure you know a lot about subwoofers... The enclosure matters waaay more then the subwoofer. Now i've said that, the SMD isn't a high powered competition sub. It's a musical subwoofer meant to handle crazy amount of power and sound good doing it. IT IS NOT A BURP SUBWOOFER. Actually, I would class it as a sub meant to get stupid loud while retaining some modicum of musicality. I completely understand the importance of the enclosure. A poor match between box and sub will severely limit the accuracy potential of the setup. With that said, even the best enclosure won't make an average sounding sub sound excellent. And I stand by my assessment of the reviewer's opinion.

Check the HU settings. Make sure the sub output is turned on/up and so forth. Your "buddy" probably messed something up in that regard.