helotaxi

It wasn't really pretty. It was headed that way but then the Son of Frank started giving me issues and I decided that it wasn't worth making all the trim panels only to tear it all apart again. That was about the time I started thinking about selling the car.

Yeah I was thinking the MAW or the X12. I was seeing if anyone had any other idea. The only reason I'm not putting it back to stock is that the front speaker install makes that impossible and I don't care about the HU either. I already have a new set of front speakers for the next car so the CDTs are staying in the car. They NEED an amp and while I'm putting in a new amp, no reason not to put in an inexpensive sub either. The wiring is already there and not worth the trouble to pull out. Build a quick enclosure, carpet it and call it good. Not a chance that the current equipment stays in the trunk. SAZ-1500D, Son of Frank and an '04 XXX 12. I do plan on selling the XXX though.

Different strokes...but I'm with you.

And best of all it doubled as a space heater and night light...

Plenty of speakers do great on that amount of power. Even speakers rated to handle much more will do well on that amount of power. Sound deadening becomes your best friend at that point. Another thing that you could consider is to use a couple of the xtant full range Class D mono amps to run the whole thing. That will give you around 100w per channel.

You'll have to wait a while for my review. I won't be installing them until I get the new truck in May-June.

At least it isn't coming out of your pocket. I still need to get my car fixed from some vandalism damage from the summer at my expense.

I've got a pair of the top of the line ones. Haven't gotten a chance to use them yet.

Poor design. It's an issue with most of the Pioneers. BTW, the Sundown amp actually should have enough crossover capability for you. It, of course, doesn't have time alignment or EQ ability. The Alpine 9887 will do what you need, too, and it's cheaper. As far as power balance goes, you can simply dial down the gains on the tweets if they are too overbearing.

Now if you could get ahold of an XES-P1 and XES-X1 you would really have something.

I'm really at a loss as to how you could think that wiring the subs out of phase with each other is going to help anything. The only time I would consider that is if the baffle for one of the subs completely sealed the cabin from the other driver which as mentioned would then be an isobaric IB setup. Based on the pics of the box, that is not nearly the case. I could only foresee an out-of-phase wiring setup causing a lot of cancellation in the box and an almost total loss of listenable output. As ramos mentioned and I mentioned earlier, it still has nothing to do with the problem.

Show some apathy if you hate the NBA... Any reason that you responded to every thread on the front page of the off-topic area?

Works for extension cords and garden hoses, too.

Purty... I wish I wasn't a poor HS/college student when those amps were new. I have a bit of an old amp collection, but nothing like that. I do have a Son of Frank (its about to go to PG for a refurb, he's gotten noisy, bad caps in the power supply methinks) a Route 66, a 2240 and a 2125TA. I also have a pristine 275/2240 heatsink but the board and transformer were toast. I also had a 2500 that the guy I bought it from had cooked at least twice and I didn't trust it so I sold it. I have 3 225 HCCAs, a 425 HCCA and a 2100 HCCA all in almost flawless condition. I have HCCA250G5 that has some sort of internal problem, nothing obviously blown inside but it blows fuses whenever it is powered on. Need to find a good repair shop to fix it. I also have a pair of purple US Amps USA-25s and a black USA-100.

Maybe. But since no one has driven the GTR yet, it's hard to say. They're also saying that it will start at over $80k. Power numbers are similar but I'll guess that the Vette is gonna weigh less and will definitely have less rotating mass because of the all-wheel drive. I hear what you're saying about the vette feeling a bit vague, but the fact still remains that its easy for the average driver to drive fast and the lack of feel doesn't keep a good driver from driving it really fast. It doesn't get scary when driven hard like the ass is going to pass the front but it still will let you tighten the line by powering up. It's not a pure driver's car and in light of that it really is pretty impressive that it places ahead of more raw feeling cars time and again in pretty much every comparison, both objectively and subjectively.

Then the sub shouldn't have much bearing on the overall quality of the sound as long as it plays low.

With one difference.. when you parallel them it does not drop the voltage. Doesn't with subs either.

Which is why the rest of the system matters. If designed and set up properly the sub accounts for little more than fill at the lowest octave. It doesn't need to be hugely accurate, good midbasses handle the accuracy part up front. The instance in which he sound of the sub comes into play is the typical daily install where the sub plays up as high as 100hz and there isn't strong midbass from accurate drivers elsewhere.

no it won't. unless there is shielding missing on something. something would have to be physically wrong with the cables for enough noise to be picked up and heard. Not to mention a HUGE ripple on the power from the alt (bad rectifier or battery might cause this but usually it still isn't picked up by the signal cables but gets in through the power supply itself).

They had computers worth tweaking when you were in high school? Damn, I feel old. When I left for college a 486DX was where it was at. I learned CAD on an 8088 machine that would take 30+ min for a redraw on a basic wireframe model (the whole file would fit on a 3.5" floppy). My first PC was a 386 enhanced with 8MB of RAM (8 x 1MB SIMs) and a 20MB hard drive. CD-ROMs were just coming out. I didn't have one for quite some time after that. I built my first computer 3 years later. 100MHz Pentium with 32 MB of RAM. The memory cost more than the entire rest of the system ($200 IIRC). 2D only vid card (the 3D cards were still a year away). SB AWE16 sound card. I built my last semi-up-to-date computer 5 years ago just before I left Japan. It lasted 6mos before a power supply failure cooked both HDs, the CD RW, MB, CPU, RAM, vid card, sound card and basically everything but the NIC. I rebuilt it in early '03 and haven't messed with it since.

Sounds like the system was actually designed and tuned properly (6 subs notwithstanding). I.e the system relies very little on the sub for good sound. Kicker L7s have been used in winning SQ installs. That still doesn't mean that the subs sound particularly good.

I'm assuming that you're talking about the STi and the Evo? They are import tuner cars, and hardly resemble a rally car. I wouldn't even go fire road running on one. The suspension couldn't handle it. They are kinda quick, and handle OK. That's about it.

They get loud. They don't sound good. For those reasons I'd not buy one regardless the price. Same goes for a lot of other subs out there that tons of people drool all over. If loud is your thing, they should do fine.

Don't need the crossover most likely for the planned install but the beefed up transistor and caps sound yummy.

It's not going to be a problem with the subs. It's going to be a problem with the signal path somewhere upstream from there. "electronic type" noise is not caused by the speakers.