helotaxi

You're thinking about the XES-P1 for the EQ and XES-X1 for the crossover and time alignment.

Has nothing to do with welds. The body is rubber mounted to the frame. There are a few small braided ground straps that connect the body to the frame. Grounding through a bolt to another wire that goes to the frame will work fine. Make sure you have a good connection above and below on the bolt. John, if you can measure the resistance it's too high.

Two years in Montana (27 below was the high on Christmas day the last year I was there) and no problems. When it gets cold, humidity drops really low, first off, and second condensation occurs when the surface is colder than the surrounding humid air, not on warm surfaces in cold air.

I've seen 8s that want boxes that big. Those subs work better sealed.

Body resistance low in comparison to a foot or two of 4 ga or 1/0 copper wire? Are you daft? 2.4 ten-thousandths of an ohm per foot for 4ga. Compared to a car body with an unknown path to ground and unknown electrical continuity to ground as well as one made from a material with 10x the resistance of copper, I'll take the extra foot or two of copper to get to the frame.

Lazy? At least when it's stupid cold you can put on more clothes. When it's 120 outside, there ain't shit you can do. Most car's AC isn't even up to the task. It will only make it almost bearable.

The best way I can think of to set up what you want (and it's really far from optimal and eliminates the possibility of using good time correction) is to run the unit in 2.2 mode. Run the midrange output to the 100.4 and use its internal crossover to low pass the 700s and highpass the mids up front. This makes a bandpass crossover for both. Use the high range output to the 100.2 for the tweets and save the sub output for the subs. If you could find a way to get the 700s up front the soundstage will thank you.

The box that you propose should work well for them sealed. You could even go a little smaller if you wanted. A ported box with those dims is going to have a very large peak in the response. For a relatively flat response you're looking at 5+ cf per sub ported.

There are a ton of variables and most serious competitors make changes from one competition to the next to try to get more. Even with no changes made to the system itself a simple change in temperature can and will change the score from one day to the next and one run to the next. It's just like actual drag racing on the strip, the most powerful car doesn't always win. Setup plays a huge factor. All the power in the world isn't going to help if it isn't applied correctly.

Good thing SPL doesn't have to resemble pretty.

The active processing part is the only reason to get that unit in the first place...

That's what's there right now. I need to get the spare back in to sell the car, though and that sub isn't going with the car.

Well, I finally got the last word about my deployment. I ship out right around New Year. Now that I have a time-line I need to get the Neon in saleable shape. I bit the bullet last night an bought the amp. It's an older Kicker KX550.3 3 channel. Fresh refurb. $149 shipped. Now all I need is the sub. Looking for an inexpensive 12 that will work well in a small sealed enclosure and 200@4 or 400@2 for power. The build will take place over the next 3 weeks before I ship out. More sooner than later. The current trunk install comes out this weekend and the build begins. I'll start a build log in the correct section. Looking for ideas for the sub. Needs to be a 12. Needs to sound good. Needs to work in a small sealed box. Needs to be configurable for a final load of either 2 or 4 ohms. I'll have 200W for power @ 4 ohms or 400W @ 2 ohms. Budget is around $120. I need to order it soon (next day or 2).

Amp got here about 20 min ago. Pretty little bugger in a nice industrial way. Was looking it over and it's a Spinal Tap amp; the gain goes to 11! Good to see that Kicker has a sense of humor. Pics will be in the install log. Install starts Friday.

I'll give you odds that the front speakers are quite similar, if not identical to the roll bar ones. The tweets are nothing special either. They sound decent for what they are. The problem that you will have with aftermarket speakers is that they are not nearly as efficient as the stock ones. Not a problem for rears, but don't expect a significant increase in performance 1) on stock HU power and 2) on a $50 budget. Free fix, fade the sound to the front.

Too many people put too much stock in "overrated" and "underrated" rather than actual power output. Answer this, which is a better deal: 1)amp A which advertises 300W "only" does 250 and sells for $200 or 2) amp B which advertises 100w does 200 and sells for $300? Way too many people are eager to kneel in front of amp B and worship at its feet for being underrated while bashing amp A for being overrated and wanting to lynch it in the town square. Amp A is a better deal. It makes more power than the other and sells for less. Who cares about advertised power, I don't use ratings to power my speakers.

With decent cables and decent amps, this isn't an issue unless the preouts are REALLY weak.

If I listen to it for a week, I'll be surprised. I needed a sub on the cheap. That's pretty much the long and the short of it. I don't exactly fit the profile of who I would expect to buy the car, so using my taste to build the system that will be sold with the car wasn't probably the best route to go. Hell, if I was keeping the car, I'd probably find a set of IB 10s and put them under the rear deck and seal the trunk up real good. All told I replaced the amps and the sub for $185. I'll sell the XXX and come out ahead. That's why I can't go back to stock, BTW. And those mids are coming out in favor of the older Eurosport mids that go with the tweet and crossovers. I could replace the door panels, but that would cost more than $200, even off eBay.

I got the sub off eBay yesterday. Kicker CVR. $35 shipped. Couldn't pass that up. Amp should be here tomorrow. Sub later in the week.

I'm assuming it's supposed to be 2 4 ohm coils? If so, that seems a good bit high. 1.6 would be more normal. Figure after impedance rise the amp is seeing well over 4 ohms. Check to make sure that you have good connections that aren't wasting power to the sub.

I can't tell how it's built but the number check out for what you're expecting. 2 cf after displacements. Tuning around 36 Hz. I'm thinking that's on the high side for tuning and low side for box volume but I don't have the parameters of that sub.

If you're demoing with music 1) you'll never run full power on those amps with someone in the car and 2) actual current draw will be more transient in nature and the alts aren't going to help much. You'd be better off with a big alt and a bank of batteries.

Well without really any clue as to what it's doing because 1) we're not standing there looking at it and 2) you really havne't described the problem more than "hardly any output" it's difficult for us to give you an informed suggestion as to what the cause might be.

You probably dont need the line driver to get full power out of the amp. That would be the only purpose of one. Most amps will do full power with only 250mV of input. The old Alpines will do that easily.

That is the only time that 5.1 will be more accurate than stereo. If the source is mixed in more than two channels. Very little music is available so mixed.