helotaxi

Rather than worry about the extra power, double your cone area and get a pair of subs that can do more with the power (are more efficient) than the BL. A pair of SSD 15s would probably do well on the single 1500d. Get D2s and you can wire the pair to the 2 ohms that your amp will like. On another note, I'm not liking the powersupply issues that I'm hearing about the Frontier. I'm planning on getting one when I get home and a pretty big system is in the works. There's got to be a fix for the ground issue. Are you on clubfrontier.org?

What power range is that ? I want to do a 5-channel in 2009 - it's just not something I can do near term (eg: this year). http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/DLS_A5/ 780w x 1 @ 1 ohm. id love to see that 5 channel. you got any specs on that? or is it still on the drawing board. I don't think that it's progressed past the concept stage yet. The drawing board follows that...

1. How old are you?---32 2. When did you get into car audio?15 or so, def before I could drive 3. How did you first get into car audio?Several friends in HS had pretty loud ass cars 4. Whats your favorite colorFor what? For a car or just about anything else I like black (own 3 black bikes and my wife's car is black. My new truck will probably be black. The color I find pleasing in general is green. 5. Male or female?male 6. Your first Car?'88 Ford Escort GT 8. How did you find out about this site?Probably denim's sig on one ofthe other sites, it's been awhile now 9. What was your first system?Orion XTR5 and XTR1s and a single JL 10W1 all running off an Orion Cobalt CO230 (still have the sub 16+ years later) 11. Where do you live?Normally Las Vegas, NV...currently Kandahar Air Base, Afghanistan 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand?All time: OS Orion and Phoenix Gold. Currently I've sent Jacob a good amount of my money. 15. Who is your hero in the car audio industry?Manville Smith and Lucio Proni. They took their house product and turned it into a household name. 16. Whats your dream system?I should be damn close by winter...HAT 3-way fronts, 3x SAX-100.2, 4xAA Assassin 8s (the old ones) SAZ-1500.1, Kenwood DDX-812, AltoMobile Drive 30 17. Whats your dream car?Bentley GT 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in?Had the wife's car up to around 130, done 135 on the Triumph 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products?eBay 20. What is your job?Major and pilot in the USAF 21. Whats your favorite saying?War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feelg which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself. -John Stuart Mills 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars?Really got a thing for Nissan/Infiniti lately. 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's?Depends on what I'm trying to do. Both cars and trucks have their place and always will in my garage. 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased?Period? I ordered a new digital camera last night. Car audio wise, my 3 SAX-100.2s 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA?About what? There are a lot of really smart guys on here in their various areas of expertise. 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment?Don't know, don't care. 33. SQ or SPL? why?SQ. I've yet to find music that has content that is only one frequency...it is all about the music after all and let's be honest, how much enjoyment can you get from an SPL system when it's turned down to normal listening levels.

Just because they can handle more power doesn't mean that they "need" it. Power does one thing: make it louder. Entirely possible that 200W is plenty for some people with either sub.

X-max is a pretty meaningless spec in regards to how low a sub can play in a ported enclosure.

That's a bit confusing and really pointless. No reason to strap the amps if the goal is to run 8 4 ohm SVC subs. Run 4 off each amp. Simplifies the install and wiring greatly and there is no difference in power delivered to each sub.

And what you're looking for is the peak of the cabin gain, not the resonant frequency. Each piece of the car has a resonannt frequency and that's the freq at which it normally vibrates based on mass and rigidity. Find the resonant frequency of a pice of the car and play that freq and watch that piece jump all over the place.

Moose Drool is my personal favorite. Top rated all time by Draft magazine for what that's worth.

I use the screw type terminal cups, however, I build a little enclosure for them into the box so the terminal cup itself isn't responsible for sealing any part of the enclosure. No pressure is put on it at all.

The solid state isolators are nothing more than a pair of really big diodes. They are still in production but have fallen out of favor with the car audio community because of the voltage drop that they cause. They function by having a single input feed a pair of diodes that only allow current into the the batteries (one for the starting battery and the other for the audio bank). Because current only flows one way in a diode, the batteries are isolated from each other completely but are still able to charge from the alternator. You can still get really big ones from RV and marine suppliers. There is a voltage drop involved of about .7V. Solenoids don't cause a voltage drop to speak of. The high current doesn't flow through the relay coil, it's a low current device. The high current only flows through the switched leads. It only isolates the batteries when the ignition is off. The SVRG is only a controller for a solenoid or relay. It triggers an output once voltage reaches a certain threshold and can either trigger your isolation solenoid or turn off your amps. Nothing special and not at all needed if you only run the stereo with the car on.

Can't see the pic, what Montana beer? Do tell!

That's called the spider. Again, doubt that you'll be able to find someone that can repair it.

That's going to be WAY too low a tuning. If you want to tune that low on those subs, you may as well just go sealed. Same output and much better sound. Not to mention that the port required to tune 1cf to 28 hz is going to have to be bigger than the rest of the box by a considerable amount. I can't believe that you will be happy with that setup.

RF 3sixty? PPI 730 (if you can find one)?

Not much of a stout person... I lived in P'cola until I turned 18 and joined the Air Force. Went back a few years later to go through pilot training with the Navy. My folks still live there. Planning to go home for the first time in almost four years at the end of the summer when I get back from Afghanistan. McGuire's is on the short list of places I'll have to go while I'm there.

www.harvestmoonbrew.com and www.bigskybrew.com are my two favorite micro breweries. I found a liquor store in LV that can get me the Big Sky beers, but I doubt that Harvest Moon will ever get much out of the very local area around Great Falls, MT. The only "mass produced" beers that I'll readily pay for are Fat Tire and Newcastle. In Canada I drink Kokanee almost exclusively. If you find yourself in Albuquerque, eat at Kelly's on Central across from the University and get a beer or 5. They brew 17 different varieties from pales to stouts on site and the food is really good, too. In Pensacola or Destin, FL, you can't go wrong with McGuire's Irish Pub. That place has more character than any other pub, tavern or bar I've ever been to and their beers are wonderful. If I'm in a different part of the country (or world for that matter) I'll always try a local beer or two. Baltica #7 from Russia is pretty good, but impossible to get in North America. That will be the next beer I drink though because it's the best thing available in the next place I'll be where it's allowed to drink. There are supposed to be some good micro breweries in Vegas. I guess that will give me something to do when I finally get home.

And I'd probably run that 1500 at 2 ohms. Won't void the warranty and will give you plenty of power for an IB setup.

If you don't care about nav the DDX-812 has all the features of the 8120 minus the nav for close to $600 less.

Actually knowing what the crossover does and how it works, tells you all that you need to know. The least efficient point in a 2 way passive crossover is right at the crossover point. Total losses there are on the order of only a couple percent. The farther you get from the crossover point in either direction, the less loss you have. Once you are about 3 octaves from the -3dB point you're looking at 99% efficiency, about the same losses you get from a couple feet of speaker wire. This is of course assuming a well made crossover. You want proof, get a 10k test tone and a 1k test tone. Play each through the system and measure the voltage before and after the crossover.

Those aren't his.

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to. I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some. Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power. If i have one side running off 100 watts passive (Ch 1), the tweeter itself is not getting a full 100 watts. It would be if it had its own channel No, you don't understand. The tweeter will NOT see any more power by having its own channel. The power is NOT split by the crossover. Running a speaker passive off 100watts and active off 100watts (its own channel), is a big difference. The passive xover will asborb a lot of that power and the tweeter won't see nearly 100watts, but running it active it will see all 100watts. Unless of course he is talking about bi-amping it. The crossover causes very little power loss unless there is an attenuation circuit on the tweet.

A charged battery draws less than 1A to stay fully charged. The amount of current being draw to charge a discharged battery is proportional to the amount of the capacity that has been drained from it. Deeply discharge is and it presents a larger load on the alt while charging. Keep it from discharging too much and it isn't much of a load. The amount of discharging that occurs with the car running is going to be almost negligible as a result the gain from an additional battery is huge compared to the "strain" it places on the alt. A cap is just a waste. A cap wants to recharge just as fast as it discharged. Therefore if you take a lot of current from it, it will try to pull a lot of current back as soon as the voltage of the system gets above the current charge of the cap. If you look at the voltage over time of a system playing music with a cap installed, the peak voltage doesn't return to what it is before the stereo is turned up. With no cap it will go back to the higher peak voltage. Add to that the fact that a cap can't provide nearly the current of a battery for nearly as long and costs as much if not more...

I knew I'd been there. Passed through on my way to St. Rose du Lac, Manitoba from GF back in 2003. I think I remember seeing some flyers when around when I still lived up there. Hope yall have a great turn out.

Please, it's not like the car's being siezed. You can get it back it's just going to be a pain in the ass, maybe enough of one that a person will think next time before acting like a douche with their system. Which is cheaper, the impound fee and ticket or sound deadener? Feel free to exercise your rights just remember that when your so exercising impinges on the rights of others, you'll have a hard time defending your actions.

Illumination is usually orange.