helotaxi

You don't need to deaden the box. If you built it well, it's as dead as it's going to get.

Sealed doesn't have more roll off than ported, it just typically begins to roll off at a high freq but a shallower slope. Get down into the really low stuff and the sealed will have more and better output than the ported setup which falls off quite steeply when it begins to roll off.

The Sundown will be much more efficient than that and unlike the a/b amp, it will be just as efficient at lower power where you will actually listen to it as it will be at full tilt. This is important because the a/b amp is considerably less efficient at less than full power.

I've run bigger, less efficient subs on less power and been pleased. More than loud enough to shake the car and sounded beautiful. Referring to an older XXX 12.

Thanks for the inputs. I think that if I can find a set of A-pillar trim panels from a wrecked truk so I don't have to cut the originals I'd be comfortable massaging the L4s into the A-pillar. The pillars look to be out and out huge (Nissan Frontier). I think the challenge is going to be find a set of trim panels.

Planning on pairing one or the other with the L1 and taking advantage of the group buy. My question becomes which is going to be better for my application? I'm quite sure that I can fit the L3 in the A-pillar, not so sure about the L4. The tweet will likely be an A-pillar install either way. The L3 would be a pretty simple install the L4 not so much. I'm not sure that I need the extra top end of the L4 since it will be paired with a tweet. Through the midrange freqs (say 250hz-10k) is the L4 worth the extra money and install hassle? I should be able to get the L3 much more on-axis if that matters. Thanks for any inputs.

Anyone have experience with the new Tang Band Neo 6x9 subs? My new truck will have 6x9 cutouts in the front doors and I'm looking at these for dedicated midbasses in a 3-way front setup matched up with Hybrid 4s and tweets. Power for all coming from a trio of Sundown 100.2s and filtering from a Altomobile Drive 30. I really want to do the Hybrid 8s in the doors but it doesn't look like that will possible without some heavy cutting on the door and door panel which I'm not willing to do this time around. If there are any other ideas, I'm open to those as well. 6x9 cutouts stock. Apparently about 3.5" of depth to work with, though in all honesty the guys on the Frontier board are not terribly helpful in getting a real assessment of the space available, and all seem locked into the idea of drop-in front speakers even being hesitant to think about building spacers to get different sized speakers in without cutting. Thoughts?

Planning on pairing one or the other with the L1 and taking advantage of the group buy. My question becomes which is going to be better for my application? I'm quite sure that I can fit the L3 in the A-pillar, not so sure about the L4. The tweet will likely be an A-pillar install either way. The L3 would be a pretty simple install the L4 not so much. I'm not sure that I need the extra top end of the L4 since it will be paired with a tweet. Through the midrange freqs (say 250hz-10k) is the L4 worth the extra money and install hassle? I should be able to get the L3 much more on-axis if that matters. Thanks for any inputs.

Provided sufficient cooling, it shouldn't have problem. Jacob over designed it. I never pushed mine all that hard, but i live in Vegas and ran it daily @ 1 ohm and it never got noticably above ambient temperature.

I'd love to be able to hear them or pretty much anything other than headphones and the iPod. Unless someone has a fantastic idea of a better way to go, I'll probably get these based on reputation. Still undecided on the mids though. Also a bit undecided on what to do about subs. I want 8s to keep from giving up the whole area behind the front seats (that spot is for the dog). I also have an idea to hide the whole shebang and make it look fairly stock t othe casual observer. I have a 1500D for power and I have 4 of the older Assassin 8s that I'm planning to use but I'm concerned about the 40hz Fs. A pair of them did pretty well in .6 cf each tuned to 38hz with a 800+ watts on the pair, but with a nice strong midbass up front I almost think I'd not see much use in them with a crossover point around 50hz. I'd tune lower but that has a tendency to run the group delay through the roof and that simply won't do. Sealed leaves me with an anechoic F3 in the high 80s IIRC. Cabin gain is great but not great enough to save that as a straight sub-bass system. The RL-i 8s would be awsome were they available. I'm actually leaning in the direction of a trio of 8W7s (I'd build the box for the 3 sealed with 3 separate chambers and buy one every few months unless I could get the dealer to cut me a deal on the trio all at once) or 4 of the Dayton Reference Series High Fidelity 8s. Denim, any chance that the new 8's will be up to the task and ready by the first part of August? Ideas on that front?

The one that will sound the best is the one hooked up to the better installed set of good speakers and properly tuned. The amp is the absolute least important thing in an SQ oriented system. Just get more power than you plan to use and call it good.

The slim neo motor was the key for these. They should fit easily. I have a set of CDT ES-06+s that I had in the doors of the SRT (with a lot of mods), that I really like, but I don't think that they'll fit without serious mods again. They're over 4" deep and I don't see there being that much rear clearance. I'm debating whether to go with the 3" or 4" legatia mids. The 3s I can get in the a pillar with a small buildout and pair them with the tweet up there. The Frontier a-pillars are pretty big. I don't think I can get the 4s up there which would leave them in the kick. Planning to get a manual transmission and I have big feet which cuts into the room for kicks. Though looking at the Nissan website, it looks like there is a good amount of room above the dead pedal. Sean, as much as I'd love to just grab a pair and give 'em a whirl, I don't own the truck yet and more to the point I won't be home until August.

Problem is that the HU amp starts to distort horribly before it clips. I've seen as much as 10% THD before clipping in tests. The preouts should be nowhere near clipping or distorting at all at this point. I'd wager that if you turn the HU up to where the internal amp starts to audibly distort, the sub preout will be weak enough that you'll have to set the gains pretty high.

Open string (E) on a bass guitar is 41Hz. Not very low at all, but definitely a freq range that lesser subs struggle with. Most subs suck at reproducing bass guitar correctly and most systems lack the proper midbass to help them out.

If the cuts are straight and you made a good glue joint, caulk is a waste. The box is sealed already for the glue. If it isn't you didn't use enough glue. I usually just run a bead of glue on the inside of any joint in addition to the glue in the joint after I get it clamped or tacked into place.

damn near as long to get it out of your nose too. and ears, and god forbid you should be sweating when you cut it. I actually ended up in the ER with an allergic reaction to the formaldehyde in the MDF from sweating while cutting.

The sub itself will matter as well. Some subs like certain tunings better than others.

MDF makes for talcum powder sawdust. Takes months to get it cleaned up, and I do mean months.

what was such a PITA? i have 2 knu distros right now didnt have to much trouble with them Getting the compression fittings threaded straight was a pain, but getting them tightened down to where they wouldn't come loose was almost impossible.

The one you linked will work, but it uses the same type connections as the KnuKonceptz blocks that are a total PITA to work with.

The speakers don't know where they're installed. Speakers are speakers. The only limitation that would relegate something to home audio use would be if it were too big to fit in the car like some of the large format tweeters that would just be a pain to mount. Damping factor is either adequate or not. 10-20 is about the level of audibility. Once you get above that there really are no sonic benefits. Of course if you're Jim you disregard it totally and run valve amps with a DF in the single digits...

It might be worth it for the increase in efficiency but I wouldn't count on being able to clearly hear the difference. What would you plan on doing with that PG amp if you did the upgrade?

I would think that either Qs or SSDs would do what you want with that power.

Playing below tuning can actually yeild MORE excursion for a given amount of power than running the sub free-air. The inertia of the air in port gets out of phase with the cone movement and works to decrease the effective moving mass of the driver. Lower mass means more excursion. The problem is that because the port is out of phase with the cone, the potr output cancels the cone output. This is what gives a ported enclosure its steep rolloff below tuning.

other than the enclosure it is in, what do you think determines how low it can play??? Same things that let a sub play loud in a ported enclosure: the enclosure, piston area and motor force (which the BL has more of than the Q).