helotaxi

SRT-4 also has silver door pulls on the inside, but these panels are built on the regular Neon panels and have handles that match the panel color. They were made for 6.5" mids and housed CDT es-6s originally and then ES-06+s. They are painted silver to match my car/radio trim and the tweeter pods are as well. There's a pic of them somewhere, I think in the build log section, but I can't see the pics (blocked on my gov't computer). EDIT: Pics in this thread: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=8474

Which takes less time: typing out your thoughts in complete and coherent sentences or having to spend you next 8 posts explaining what you so poorly worded the first time?

Is the 2000 Neon the same body style as the '03? I have a set of buildouts built into the lower door panel that I'm replacing. If you're not in a hurry I'll be back in the States in early August and would let them go for really cheap. Matching set of tweeter mounts for the a-pillar, too.

If you have big hands (mine are broad across the palm) really compact pistols in high power calibers are almost impossible to shoot. I just can't get enough fingers on the grip to hang on. A gun that's difficult to shoot is not very useful in a defensive situation. If you think that you need more than a 9mm (90+ percent one shot stops with good ammo) you are compensating for something. If you are genuinely concerned about dope fiends, practice failure drills. 2 to the center of mass, if that doesn't get the job done then you hit a failure point (head, hip, knee). Take out a failure point and they are out of the fight, period.

I fixed your post.

Sounds like you've got it covered. Speakers, power, processing, mounting deadening. That's about it.

huh? a 1911 has two safeties..the thumb which is used for the cock and lock, and the grip dafety. unless you have one i know nothing about, how could yours have 3? or 2-3 AFTER the thumb? The Colt 80 series had a firing pin block as well. It was a POS and there is a reason that they aren't made anymore. Once again they tried to change the perfect pistol and only effed it up. As far as what chambering, two schools of thought: one carry as many rounds as possible before needing a reload. The other is end the fight with the first shot. Two schools of though on that as well. First is carry a large caliber that does the damage with the first shot. With the early 9mm rounds, the hollow points were crap and couldn't be relied on. Not so anymore. The second thought is carry something that you are comfortable and consistent shooting. If your carry gun is small, packing a .45 or a 10mm makes for a genuinely punishing gun to shoot. That leaves you less likely to practice (both for the recoil and the cost of ammo) and also more likely to develop a flinch which keeps you from hitting with the limited number of large bore rounds that you have. I have come to think that carrying as many rounds as possible in a caliber that is comfortable to shoot in my chosen weapon is the proper course of action. In a compact, 9mm is a perfectly viable round. It's also pretty much the cheapest to shoot regularly. For a full size a double stack .45 is really nice. My dad has a Glock 21 (full size .45) and I can't stand it. Shoots really nice for the first few rounds but then the weight has changed so much (the ammo is a significant part of the weight of the weapon) that muzzle flip starts getting excessive and recoil starts getting really uncomfortable. I'll probably never own a polymer frame .45 for just that reason. Planning to buy 2-3 handguns when I get home (and an AR-15 or two as well). A Ruger SR9 will be one along with a compact 9mm for the wife and a fairly compact 9mm (probably Sig 250) for myself.

1911s are great. The only limfac as personal defense weapon is the need to carry cocked and locked. At least with a DA/SA or striker fired weapon you can carry one in the tube and on fire.

Night and day better.

I'm thinking about going with a 5.1 setup in the truck. The front channels will be 3-way active and I'm thinking Legatia 4s for the surround channels and the center channel. Amps for the surround would be OLD US amps USA-100 and a USA-25 bridged on the center channel. There's a nice pocket in the top center of the dash for the center channel and the rears will be in pods up near the ceiling. The HU I just ordered is 5.1 equipped (Kenwood Excelon DNX-8120) and the sourround will only be used on multichannel source material with just the fronts and subs on music. Thoughts?

My pleasure.

250A is about where you can go with 1/0 and should be about right for that amp as well.

The real problem with bass boost is that most amps don't have the headroom to allow its use without clipping to hell and back. Unless you set the gain using a tone that is the same freq as the center boost freq and with the boost where you want it all the time, the amp will clip.

Either should be fine. If money isn't an issue, the 1500d is pretty close to bulletproof.

Well considering that I was running the same sub amp at 1 ohm in addition to an older PG amp about 100x2 on a stock battery and alt, I don't think that you'll have a problem

No problem running multiple fused power wires off a single battery. That's probably the route I'd go in your case.

One of the best bangs for the buck (pun fully intended) is the Ruger SR9. Plan on picking up one of those in addition to a few other things when I get home.

YOU don't. Just quit posting in it and it is effectively closed.

He should have hit the ring around the sub with a roundover bit...other than that nice looking simple box. How's it like the power?

Search, we really did discuss this at length a bit over a year ago.

And the Audisons are hardly worth the retail price on them

Probably be better off amp wise with a pair of SAE 1000ds either strapped or one wired to each coil. Cheaper, too.

Ummmm, no. Impedance is an AC phenomena. If the wire is the right size and the ground is actually sufficient as well, there will be no difference based on where the battery is. The voltage drop over the run of wire should be negligible at full draw (which you'll never see on music anyway) and if it isn't you need better wiring.

I only use brads to hold the parts in place while I get the clamps out...kind like using a tack weld to hold the parts until you can lay a good bead. Once the glue is set, the screws are pointless and make it diffucult to clean up the edges with a big roundover bit

actually running power wire as speaker wire is slightly cheaper. 10 ga. speaker wire is more expensive then 10 ga. power wire i am tryna cut cost on stuff like that. As mentioned above unless the speaker wire is 2x or more the price of the power wire, it isn't cheaper because you need 2x as much of the power wire. Even 10ga is usually overkill for subs. I used it in my last install for the simple reason that it was available at a good price.