helotaxi

Your buddy is pretty dumb, but you don't need a very big alt for what you have. An alt upgrade without a battery upgrade is kinda pointless so I would add the extra battery first. If you're still having problems, then think about an alt, but the battery makes the biggest difference on transient draw (which your audio system is).

Your buddy is pretty dumb, but you don't need a very big alt for what you have. An alt upgrade without a battery upgrade is kinda pointless so I would add the extra battery first. If you're still having problems, then think about an alt, but the battery makes the biggest difference on transient draw (which your audio system is).

Actually nothing is "inline" with anything. The battery and alt are wired in parallel. If either ground is crap the system as a whole will suffer, but a bad connection between the battery and the chassis will limit the battery contribution to the electrical system for any component that uses a chassis ground. Same for the alt if the block ground is bad. The battery connection is most important for transients. My current car (for the next week until I sell it at least) has a 4ga ground for the battery to the fender and it really isn't relevant for the power delivery for the amps because I don't use a chassis ground. The battery to block connection is 1/0 and the battery to alt wire is 1/0 as well.

As far as I know, the SAX-100.4 is the most affordable amp that can do it.

The length isn't that important as long as the wire is the right gauge for the lenght, longer run=bigger wire.

Of course if the point the battery was grounded to (or more correctly the point on the chassis that was grounded to the battery) has a shitty electrical connection to the point where the amp was grounded, it's worthless, too.

Not an RL-i. Motor's WAY to big. Doesn't look like any production driver I've seen. My guess wold be something totally custom that someone made/had made.

What size wire did you use for your primary amp power? What grounding point are you using for it? Did you ground the battery to the same point on the sheetmetal as the block was already grounded? I wouldn't worry about the alt, it should be more than enough for that amp plus a mid-high amp. The battery will help the dimming more.

The whole "shortest ground possible" thing is kinda a crap generalization. The ground is going to the battery any way you look at it so you can either choose to use a longer piece of wire coupled with a short section of chassis or the other way 'round. I personally use an adequate length of wire coupled with no chassis.

I seem to recall there being different modules for different freqs.

Not regularly on music it doesn't.

Those people that are against it are ill informed. More than adequate for that amp, just ordered some of the same for my install consisting of the same amp plus 3 SAX-100.2s. I'm not in the least concerned.

A tuning lower than the sub really wants will muddy up the response as well. That same low tuning would drive you to have a lot of turns in the port because it would have to be really long for a mid sized box even. Could be the turns, probably the tuning.

Are the Celestion drivers still available over there?

The PDX get great reviews. Like I said, the Memphis S-class amps and the JL HD series are very similar and also have a small footprint. I guess Arc Audio makes a truly tiny 2x100 amp now, too, though it's quite pricey. If you have any inclination toward a DIY project, molding a fiberglass sub box for an 8 or 10 into the space behind the passenger's seat should be fairly straight forward if a bit time consuming. A custom install shop worth the name could bo it for you, but I shudder at what they'd charge. I've been trying to get the Mazda homepage to load to see what space you have to work with, but I'm getting no love on my work computer.

Welcome, fellow Airman and Las Vegan!

Welcome, fellow Airman and Las Vegan!

It won't matter how the subs are wired, just as long as the resistor is wired in series with the whole of them.

You should be able to get the Alpine unit online for much cheaper. You don't need to keep the factory HU to retain the steering wheel controls, either. PAC makes an interface that allows full steering wheel control function with most of the higher end aftermarket units. No experience with the newer US Amps stuff. If you want another option for a small amp, the Memphis S series amps are very similar to the PDX and JL HD series. The Dynaudios are great speakers. I'm not sure that there is another company out there that will be able to deliver a passive 3-way system that will outperform them.

Do you have the parking brake trigger connected or did you bypass it?

There are programs that help you figure what the volume needs to be, but from there it's all pencil, paper and a calculator. The CAD programs just make it look pretty so you can show what it should look like before you mess up the build

If there was a reliable, cheaper, ready source for those plugs, they might be overpriced. As it is, though, he has a corner on that market and can charge whatever people are willing to pay. I've bought plugs from him on several occassions for my old Orions.

There are no 8s currently available or slated to be available in the near future. The 10s are supposed to work great in a sealed box.

Gonna need a hell of a battery bank first and foremost. With normal music a slightly upgraded alt should be plenty.

My dad lives right off 9 Mile Rd.