helotaxi

Nothing to be gained by using a line driver. Don't waste the money.

I've been looking at a a DPMS in 5.56. I've got no use for the larger calibers in an AR platform. It'd cost too much to enjoy shooting it and still won't be as accurate as I'd want for long range shooting without sinking a LOT of money into it. Had plenty of fun shooting my bolt action .243 and I don't go through so much ammo that it costs me a fortune to take it out. It also shoots a ragged hole for 4 rounds at 100 yds.

He was talking about a 1911. No DA there.

Revolvers are really easy to clean. Brush the bore. Brush the cylinders. Swab both. Done. No disassembly required. As far as the USP goes, no longer in production. Been replaced in the H&K lineup. Concerning not getting a gun for personal defense, if you never get a gun you'll never learn how to use one and you'll never be able to have that tool at your disposal for the defense of your life or the lives of your loved ones. That's like saying don't learn to drive cause you're more likely to get in a wreck when you're first starting out. You're much more likely to get injured or killed in your car than get shot with your own gun. Most people that do carry guns have never had to draw them, much less fire them. If robbery was the only danger out there, no one would need a gun because you're right, simply surrender whatever it is that they want. Even if I was carrying a gun I'd probably do that at least initially. Rare these days, it seems, that your basic theft is all that happens. Any gun in that situation is better than no gun. The nice thing about the newer autos is that they're small and light enough that you can carry them all day every day. The ergonomics are better than a that of a revolver of similar size and the capacity is larger as well. Modern autopistols are just as reliable as a revolver as well. You pull the trigger it goes "bang."

Must be REALLY remote if GPS doesn't work...like somewhere not on this planet...morons

If you have to ask the price...the shop where I bought my two handguns had a Barrent .50 for a measly $10k. It was a semi-auto though, the bolt version is a bit cheaper. If you want something to hunt big game, stick with bolt action. There are some AR variants in larger calibers, but the bolt guns are much more accurate. As far as a handgun goes, the SR9 has a pretty short reach to the trigger. The new XDm .40 does as well. Of course if you're finding the trigger reach on the 1911 on the long side, you're pretty much hosed, mine has a shorter reach than even my SR9. You are only trying to use the tip of the trigger finger, right? When they say "squeeze" the trigger, they're not talking about wrapping your whole finger around in down to the joint.

Hopefully my damn truck will get here and I'll soon be able to add my input as well.

How do you figure? No one makes a cheap HO alt for the new Frontier at all. I can't remember who makes the only one currently on the market but I don remember a price tag in the $600 range. For daily use a battery bank is your best friend. Average current draw is much less than the 150A that you think you need, I don't care how big the system is.

Using the full size Glock mags with the grip extension sleeves on them would work. There are similar sleeves for the M&P and I might go that route for the next gun. The subcompact M&P just doesn't fit my hand at all. Ring finger is just partly off the bottom of the grip, pinkie is floating in space. The full size is just right with the medium rear piece on it. The large grip is too big and the small just doesn't feel right. The odd thing is that the small grip panel is still bigger than the SR9's grip, but the SR9 just feels right in my hand with the flat backstrap on it just as the M7P feels right. Can't explain it. As promised: The 1911 is a Norinco that I've had for years. It's about to get a complete workover including a new barrel and all new springs. Still waiting to go shoot the new guns. My truck had better be here today and one of the first things I'm doing is heading out into the desert to go through some ammo. Got 500 rnds of 9mm waiting to go. Need to send in the rebate card for the M&P and get my 2 free mags. Need to find holsters for both. Being left handed sucks big time in that regard. I'll probably break down and get a right handed holster for one of them (probably the SR9 since holsters for it are hard to come by period) and practice shooting right handed. I'm not bad with my off hand, just out way out of practice.

It can be done. That's usually how people run 16v systems. Question is "why?"

No exposed breasts equals fail.

I know what you mean but the laws are written by lawyers. They don't make sense, nor do they really allow for that.

Clark County requires you to register all handguns, though that law should be struck down here shortly because the state passed a law stating that only the state could regulate firearms and state law has primacy over local law. Looking forward to shredding my registration cards. Chad, hope you got someone to buy your ammo. 21 to purchase handgun ammo. The law is kinda funny about the whole age thing in one other way as well. The Federal transfer paperwork states that the gun may not be purchased for another. Not sure how you can "own" a handgun at 18 but can't "buy" unless you're 21 and can only buy for yourself. I'm guessing that the license is to possess, not "own." There's a distinct difference there. I'll get some pics of the new guns up shortly. The wife just left for work with my digicam in her car.

The amp is honestly one of the least important pieces in a SQ install. Speakers are most important as far as equipment goes, but the install itself is infinitely more important than any piece of gear in the car. I'd give the speakers about 6% of the final outcome with the install getting about 93%. The processing about 2.75%. The last 0.25% is divided between the HU, amps and wiring and weighted in that order.

Al foil?

How are you getting a handgun when you're only 18? Federal law is 21 last I knew.

It's better than Steel City...

The guys at the gun shop I bought mine from highly recommended the Beretta.

As long as displacements are accounted for, tuning is solely a factor of box volume, port area and port length.

The JL is definitely a W1v1. The W0 had a really pronounced bump in the backplate. Looked like a volcano without the crater portion. 1 CF sealed is about right for that sub maybe a little bigger. It also only really wants a max of 150w. Great old budget sub. I still have a 10W1 from 1991 that is in perfect shape. Was my first sub actually.

Not that bad compared to what? Keystone Light? The Beast? Had some Russian beer on the way home. Bought a New Belgium sampler the other night. Surprised by the Old Cherry. Only thing out of the sampler that I've tried so far.

So yesterday I was having a bad day... My work network account was deleted while I was deployed, so I couldn't get the two things done that I needed to do before going on leave. My truck that was supposed to be transferred from another dealer to my local dealer and arrive last week for delivery today wasn't here. I went to the complete other side of Las Vegas from where I live to fill out the paperwork to buy my new gun (S&W M&P full size 9mm), get there and realize that I left my military ID (required because I still claim FL as my state of residence for tax and voting purposes and still have my FL driver's license) in my uniform back at my house. At this point I'm pissed because the entire day has been a waste, so I resolve to salvage some part of the day and drive back to the house with the wife. On the way home we stop at a furniture store and find a sofa that both really like and buy it. Saved myself several days of furniture shopping there, things are looking up. Get to the house, get my ID and drive back to the gun shop. I'm gonna get something done. So as I'm filling out the 12,000 forms for the M&P, I look down in the bottom of the display case and what should catch my eye? A Ruger SR9! That wasn't there earlier that day! Asked the guy behind the counter and he said that they had just arrived about 20 min earlier. No one had gotten any in since the recall earlier in the year. He asks me if I wanted it instead of the M&P and I did what any sane person would do, I bought both! I intended to buy both anyway eventually, so by buying both at the same time, I saved the background check fee. Friday should be like Christmas! My truck should arrive (finally and the dealer owes me cause they screwed up!) and my 72 hr waiting period will be over and I can pick up both of my new guns.

think of it this way LPF stands for low PASS filter. It lets frequencies below the filter freq pass through and cuts out freqs above that. If you set your LPF to 80hz and the HPF to 5500 hz for your mids, they would try to play below 80hz (exactly what you're trying to avoid) and above 5500 hz. You want the HPF set to around 80 and the LPF around 5500 for the mids. Yes. That is the max you want to set them to. Don't be afraid to dail them down from that point if, for example, the tweeters are really screaming. That's the nice thing about running active, you can level adjust things separately.

Of course most of the crossovers that are capable of running an active front stage are a bit pricy. Finding a used Coustic XM-3, -5, or -7 is a good way to go. The XM6 can be had pretty inexpensively. I have one that I got NIB off eBay for $50 shipped.

Compensation