sexterra

Good work so far man! Hope you get the subs soon!

Actually yeah, entire build is complete and I'm really happy with it. I just haven't updated it on here. Will update after classes today.

Going brace with 2" dowels and still have to cut and place corner braces. Still debating on running a full port divider down middle or a partial. Made the box a little bigger than design. 50" X 20" X 38".Looks good man! I think you'll be happy with the birch decision. I probably would try to avoid putting a brace in the port as it'll increase turbulence in there. Maybe just double up the side walls of the port and round over the ends.

That's why I don't ask questions on here. People are plenty happy to shoot ideas down without offering anything constructive. It's never gotten me anywhere. Check out the speaker cook book. It's got good stuff in it but I think it's a little more than what you are looking for at this point in time. I read a little of it. It's pretty good. I think most of what Quentin was talking about was trying to get a perfectly flat response. You would be fine with a 6" aeroport IMO.

There a big difference from baltic birch ply and shop birch (11 or 13) for this kind of application.The more plys, the more directions the grain can be angled in, the stronger. So it is more rigid. It's what most of the guys I know who build boxes use.

I'll check that out. Patent no.?

Wow, interesting. Alot of this is pretty crazy to me since it basically means everyone is doing it wrong. Are there any articles/literature I could read to understand how this all works? And I'm assuming that means that my hopes of getting an explanation on how to do that are unreasonable?

Learn something new everyday. What I mean by what hes trying to do is that people who are all about spl generally go for a ridiculous amount of port. Id be interested to see how my port area will be for my box, I could probably get the actual xmax spec from PSI for my subs. If the pvc ones arent big enough, there are always the concrete tubes, or you can build an octoport.

Why no flares? They make the port even more efficient, can reduce chuffing etc. if you don't want to pay for the precision port kit, I would grab a router and make wood flares, basically just router out a ring and rabbet the inside edge so that the PVC fits into it and then epoxy it or fiberglass it on and hit it with a roundover bit on the inside and outsides. . A wooden flare would also make it possible to brace the port just by screwing the flare to the box. The size of port you want to use depends on your goals, the woofer and the size of the enclosure. If I was you, I'd go for a 5" or 6". I'll find the tuning formula for aeros.

I'd make the box a bit larger, and would make the port a bit wider than 1.75, the less ratio of h:w the better. You could also give an aeroport a shot, it'll be a bit more costly than building a slot, but much easier since all you have to do is cut a hole in the box. It'd be pretty easy to do it side firing as long as you have clearance, or firing out of the baffle if you used an elbow piece. It would also be a good deal easier to calculate tuning. For reference, I'll be running a 4" aero in my build for 2 8s (slightly more cone area than 1 10") on 1.5k in about 1.75cubes

Also if you can, try to get 9 or 13 ply birch. It's stronger than 5, and if there are any voids they would be much less significant.

Baltic birch would still be ply, it's just a higher grade. The recommendation for a lumber yard is a great one, that will save a good bit of $, and get you higher quality wood most likely. Mdf dust sucks. I can't imagine that I would use Mdf again. You only need one side finished, so if you can save $ there also. Only one side needs to be pretty haha I really want to see this thing stained up nice when it's done.

I guess you could seal the Mdf with lacquer. It may take a bit mor lawyer though. I'm just not really sure why you're so hung up on using Mdf? It would cost you maybe 80$ more to do birch ove mdf, and you already have a good bit invested. I probably see more people use birch than Mdf, and it sounds great. And in your application just seems like a much better choice since it's more resilient to moisture, as well as stiffer than Mdf. I'd also be willing to bet that stain and lacquer is gonna be a good bit cheaper than herculiner.

Yeah, I rolled it. Tried to use a fuzzy roller at first. big mistake, all the fuzz came off into the liner, so i used a foam one. Much better. Wound up getting some of it on my hands though, boy was that fun to get off The lacquer would probably be your best bet for waterproofing. and would look awesome over a stain.

Im not sure I understand what youre getting at? Are you saying build the box from mdf, but the second baffle will be birch, and then bedline the mdf portion with herculiner. And make panels of birch to cover the bedlined mdf portion?