cx-7heaven

Ok guys, maybe you can help me. I have an '07 mazda cx-7. It has a "pd drive" alternator setup. What it does is go through the computer, and the comp decides where and how much amperage to send out. What would happen if I go from the alt positive directly to the batt positive, in effect bypassing the computer? BTW the info on the pd drive is straight from the owner of ohio generator. Thanks for any help

I own one, have it sealed at ~4 cu ft. 14-16 sounds entirely too big, also according to all the calculators I've seen, the EBP shows it to prefer sealed rather than ported boxes. Good Luck

I'm running a 1500d to a havoc 18, and it is a very good match.

That's disgustingly powerful. Absolutely SICK!!!!!!!!

Havoc 18 wieghs 35 lbs.

How does american bass stack up quality-wise to sundown? Specifically the xd3000 to the saz1500? Any help would be appreciated.

Awesome, thanks jacob

I have 2 1500d's, only one is in my car right now. I have an AA havoc 18d2 in the car as well. I am looking to add another 18 soon. My question is: will I get more efficency and power with both amps running seperately at 1 ohm a piece or running strapped at 2 ohms? I have factory electrical(110amp alt) for now, will be upgrading it soon as well. I just want to run the 2 18's without destroying anything in my car. Any help would be appreciated.

Ok, so back on topic.........

My stock alt is 110 amps, so it's no punk. my voltage drops to 12.6 on hard bass notes. I do have a 50 farad cap on the system though, so it helps a little bit. It depends on what size your alt is, I am having a very hard time finding one for mine, because of the way it's set up.

So, slightly less power strapped? What about efficency, i.e load on the elec system?

Yeah, I'm just an oldschool basshead. All my buddies tell me that I'm too old for that, but I say screw 'em.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...si&img=2716 My havoc 18 install album Have fun

Just got another saz-1500d!! It will drive the 4 tens I'm putting in my '79 TransAm SE... just gotta get a wire kit and I'll be good to install yet another system!! The car: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...si&img=2675 The subs: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...si&img=2672

Pics were upside down, new links with correct pics edited!

Havoc 18....... 2 of em ....... yummers! If you havent done it yet, I would definitely cut a passthrough from your trunk, and box in any speakers on the back deck( if you have any). Those 18's will destroy any speaks back there not boxed in... trust me;). Remember to wrap those tinsels... I used some leftover walmart car-carpet and just glued them around the tinsels. <<<<----------Havoc 18 FTMFW!!

Thanks guys.. I tried to be as honest as possible with it.

Ok, first off, all pictures are in my album, so I wont repost them(saves time). I Bought the sub a few weeks ago, to replace my 4 mtx thunderr 5500 10", powered by a saz-1500d. The shipping box was ok, standard cardboard box with the styrofoam pieces in it to hold the sub. I would have hoped for a better box, as I've heard and seen horror stories with that type of box, but oh well. Build quality seems very nice, not much excess glue, all joints well glued. 2 problems I have with the build quality, small to some, but annoying to me. First is that the terminals are extremely close to the basket, less than a millimeter apart on one side and about a millimeter on the other. My worry with that is obviously shorting to the frame and smoking my amp. second is that the tinsels are not sewn in to the spider. That didnt seem to be a big deal, as there is felt on the back of the cone, but became a problem later(at least to me). The cone is sexy, surround is strong, although it is a foam/rubber compound rather than a full rubber surround. Very healthy sub, wieghed in at 35 pounds. The first box I built last weekend for it was 7.5 cu ft gross(sealed). It is truly amazing, the kind of low frequency output this thing has. It makes the whole dash and windshield flex, and I dont mean just a little either!! Only thing about that size box is that there is very little upper subbass output. This is where the tinsel leads came in to play. For the first half hour or so of listening and playing around, all was cool. Soon after that I could hear a higher pitched clicking sound on harder beats. Figured it was tinsel slap but wasnt sure, so I kept it a bit lower all last week, because it did sound like a coil bottoming out as well. I have honestly never heard tinsel slap before, so that where that came from. Today I rebuilt the box down to 4.9 net cu ft, and it definitely loves that box!! I also took the opportunity to wrap the tinsels in some fabric pieces I had laying around, and that fixed the slapping problem. My mid-upper subbass came up, and it seems I kept all the low freq output too, so it is a win-win situation. Compared to my tens, it has the classic trade-off: lost punchiness, gained low freq, but overall I am very happy with this sub. I was able to make up for the punchiness I lost by upgrading my front stage to a pair of diamond d971's I installed a couple weeks ago, so it's no real issue to me. If you want to do 20-30 hz with authority... GET THIS SUB!! It is a very clean sounding sub, does keep up nicely with rock and roll drums and bass(in the smaller box), also blends a lot nicer with my front stage than the 10's did... definitely a nice LSQ sub! If I had it to do over again, I probably would go with the rl-p 18 though, only because of the tinsel issue( Yes it is that big of a deal to me!) Seeing as how I bought this sub without ever having heard one, it wouldn't bother me to get the SS to replace it if I ever needed to. Old box: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...si&img=2687 New, smaller box: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...si&img=2716

Thanks guys.... btw, review is up

I have 4 4 ohm 10's in my car now, wired to 1 ohm for my saz-1500d. I am thinking of upgrading to 4 12's. The 12's I am looking at only come in dvc config, so to get 1 ohm, i need to get dvc-2's. My question is should I wire the coils on each sub series and then wire the subs parallel, or vice-versa? Would it make a difference to the amp? I would end up with a 1 ohm load either way. Any help would be appreciated.