tac2137

I've had my subwoofer installed for just over 2 years now with no issues. Now when I start my car (No music playing) The power light on my bass knob flashes and I can hear my subwoofer slightly thumping. I've checked the ground and the power cables but can't figure out what causing it. The clipping light doesn't flash red, just the power light. I attached a video of this. You cant hear the thumping because its very low. The amp I'm using is a Sundown SAZ 1500D and I'm using the bass knob that came with that amp. This issue will happen almost every time I start my car but last week it stopped for about 4 days and now its back and even worse than it was before. Bass Knob Flash.mp4

SOLVED

I have had this system for over a year and it has been working fine until I got a short on the remote wire coming from my amp and going into the remote IN on the lc2i. It shut my system off, so I installed a new remote wire. once I installed the new remote wire my system worked again however I woke up the next day to find my battery was dead. It turns out I accidentally had a few strands of wire coming off of the lc2i's remote IN and touching the 12v port causing my amp to stay on all night. My issue is that when I properly install the wire into the remote IN port, It no longer turns my amp on. Could the remote IN port on the lc2i be bad or am I missing something else that could cause that?

I know this is a really stupid question but I want to make sure I'm tuning my amp correctly. On my amp the subsonic goes from 10hz at its lowest and 60hz at its peak. If I turn the dial to it's 12 o clock position is that 30hz or is it 40 Hz due to it starting at 10hz and not zero? Same with LPF. At its lowest it's 35hz and at its peak it's 300hz. At the 12 o clock position is that 150hz or is it 185hz due to it starting at 35hz and not 0?

Does anyone know what the accurate specs are for the sundown audio SAZ 1500d v.3 is? I lost the paper work for this and i've found 2 sites that claim to have the specs but they are different from one another. I'm just trying to figure out the accurate inline fuse to use and the accurate watts.

They helped me out. Basically told me they are all the same just slightly different internals

But is there a difference between the 1500D v.3?

So I just purchased this subwoofer Sundown SA12 v2. D4 RMS power 1000watts I have a sundown saz 1500d v.3 but I feel like it's a bit much Specs for amp 2ohm =3000watts x 1CH 1ohm= 1500watts x 1CH 4ohm= 400watts x 1CH What amp would you recommend for this single sub?

Hello, I have a 2014 Accord EX-L sedan that comes stock with nav and touch screen and the stock audio system is JUNK! It comes with four 6.5 inch speakers that sound super flat and a 8inch sub that isn’t enough for me. I plan on replacing all speakers but I want to know if I can upgrade my system without changing my stock head unit. If it helps at all I have the 4 channel alpine MRV-F300 amp for speakers and the Sundown SAZ-1500d for my subs. If I can’t upgrade without changing my headunit what would be my best option for better sound?

I’m not too familiar with DSP

So about 4 months ago i bought Two Pioneer TS-d1720c Speakers and i had them wired directly to my headunit, They worked great but everyone told me to buy an aftermarket amp and they will sound a lot better. So about a month later i decided to buy the Alpine MRV-F300 amp to wire my speakers too. I got everything hooked up to the new amp but for some reason i felt like my speakers sound better when they were wired to the headunite instead of the new amp ( //Example// I felt like my bass coming from my speakers sounded a lot fuller when they were wired to my headunite. When i had them wired to my aftermarket amp, The bass was kinda flat) . I asked 100 questions on a few other audio forums on what could be the problem and even posted exactly how i had everything wired including my placement of the ground wire and how everything was connected to the headunite and battery. Everyone told me it was wired correctly from what they could see and read on the manuals for both the headunite and amp. No one could help me anymore after that. Here we are about 4 months later and i just got a weird feeling and decided to check my wiring again to my amp. I noticed at the bottom of my Amp, there was a lot of corrosion. I decided to just say hell with it and rewire my speakers back to the headunite. My problem now is my Headunite turns on and plays my CD but nothing comes out of the speakers now. I remembered to wire the remote back to the stock amp to my car as well. Any ideas? I just don't really understand why my stock amp in my car worked fine before and now that i rewired it back, It doesn't work.

SOLVED

I figured it out. I did have to go through my headunit settings and turn on the internal amp. Thanks for the help!

So I should get a new headunite? I was wanting one anyways.

I agree, I feel like I had something wired wrong or had the gain and or crossover tuned wrong. But once I saw the corrosion I just decided to go back to stock. What I mean by that is instead of having my speakers wired to the Alpine amp I just wired them back to the stock speaker wires that are connected to he headunite. My headunite is the Alpine cde-134hd and my Aftermarket Amp that has the corrosion on it now is the Alpine mrv-f300

I understand where you are coming from, but like I said, I installed aftermarket door speakers and What little bass was coming from them sounded a lot better when I had them wired to the stock amp instead of the aftermarket amp

I have the Alpine cde-134hd

Yes.

Can I safely wire my 2 door speakers at 4 ohms to a 4 channel amp. I have heard it's not a good idea

Ill have to go listen to some then. I have been saving up money for a while now. I plan on at least doing my doors and trunk and i know deadening can be a lot of money. I put my price at $400 because i know some speakers can be over $600 but i feel like that's just buying the name, at the same time im not looking for speakers that are "good for the price" I want Good speakers that will make me want to keep them and put the time in installing the stock speakers back in if i sell the car later on. Random and i still feel a little eerie about doing it. I changed my wiring to the first 2 channels instead of bridged and it sounds a lot better. I feel as if i did a little bit of in depth tuning i could get it to where i want it.

The filters on the amp should be set to off. No. The HP should be on. No way, no how can those comps take a bridged amp at low frequencies in his installation. To test to see if the filter is screwing things up he could turn it off but then DON'T turn it up loud as you could easily waffle one of the mids. Aren't comp. type speaker setups considered full range. The way the manual reads you want it set to off and let the crossover do the work. Other wise he will not get the lows he wants. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html Perhaps an analogy will help. I have some full range speakers on my desk. They have a single 4" driver in them, currently connected to a 50w per channel amp. How do think the 4's would like it if I played a 15Hz tone at 50w?The correct answer is that it would rip the shit out of them. 5w might be too much. So his components are indeed "full range", but now he is powering them with plenty of power to reach Xmax of the driver at lower frequencies. If you don't want that driver bouncing off the back plate you HAVE to cross them over. This is exasperated in an IB mounting scenario. I'd even HP an 8" sub running as a midbass, of course that is for the other reason that having more than 1 driver playing the same frequency has a strong possibility of creating an acoustic mess in the space. Another thing, What component speakers do you recommend? I'm going to sell the car with the components i have in them with the car because all 4 stock speakers were blown when i purchased the car. Im looking for good sound quality because ill more than likely be running 2 sa-12s off of the saz 1500d unless i find other subs. i dont want to spend more the $400-$450.

The filters on the amp should be set to off. No. The HP should be on. No way, no how can those comps take a bridged amp at low frequencies in his installation. To test to see if the filter is screwing things up he could turn it off but then DON'T turn it up loud as you could easily waffle one of the mids. Aren't comp. type speaker setups considered full range. The way the manual reads you want it set to off and let the crossover do the work. Other wise he will not get the lows he wants. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html Perhaps an analogy will help. I have some full range speakers on my desk. They have a single 4" driver in them, currently connected to a 50w per channel amp. How do think the 4's would like it if I played a 15Hz tone at 50w?The correct answer is that it would rip the shit out of them. 5w might be too much. So his components are indeed "full range", but now he is powering them with plenty of power to reach Xmax of the driver at lower frequencies. If you don't want that driver bouncing off the back plate you HAVE to cross them over. This is exasperated in an IB mounting scenario. I'd even HP an 8" sub running as a midbass, of course that is for the other reason that having more than 1 driver playing the same frequency has a strong possibility of creating an acoustic mess in the space. Should i even touch the setting in my head unit? It looks like i can adjust about anything.

I thought about it but then again im not going to keep this car much longer so i don't want to spend the money. My next car is going to have subs to take care of my bass problem..I would really just like to learn from my mistakes and be able to know how to do the shit myself.

I do have another amp but its a SAZ-1500d v.3....

Im a little lost here. I just switched my RCA cables every way possible. From the amp, from the head unit and from the splitters and i dont even notice a difference when i do so..same thing happened when i changed my speaker wires around when i put neg to pos and vice versa.