kidred

All I can add here is that that power sealed should down right SEXY! That what it sounds like based on your review that I read. Do these do well in a small sealed box and what size would be best? I'd like to be .5cft - .8cft if possible. Well I havent really tested it sealed... but the ported box was .85. So sealed should be close to .6 optimal. Cool, smaller size, thanks. Is it safe to say this will sound good sealed? I think I'll pick one up.

All I can add here is that that power sealed should down right SEXY! That what it sounds like based on your review that I read. Do these do well in a small sealed box and what size would be best? I'd like to be .5cft - .8cft if possible.

I'm thinking about getting this sub to replace my TC10 OEM because it's smaller and is a D2 so I can more output from my SAE-1000D (can only get 600w for the D4 TC10) Not to thread jack but a few questions- -optimum and bare minimum sealed size? -is the 1000D @ 1000w running 2ohm OK for the IXL 10? -how heavy is the sub?

Excllent. Just curious, why does the 1000D lack the silver streak in the middle like the other amps? Like a bastard stepchild or something. Can't wait to get them mounted on an amp rack.

So am I Sounds awesome, exactly what I was hoping for. The 1000D runs hot, but I guess that's expected and I can't wait till I deaden everything and kill all the rattles. Thanks.

Sorry guys, Mr Sun Down, I'm a dweeb. I had never wired a mono and a multichannel amp together. SO after trying another 10" sub+enclosure I had and being confused by the same low output I knew something else was causing my issue. So, after playing around I found that the output RCAs from the 100.2 SHOULD NOT have both channels wired to the input on the mono 1000D. I pulled out channel 1 and volume to my OEM doubled. So, haha, now I have the SQ and LOW BASS that now matches beautifully with my comps and the gain on the 1000D is maybe half way, I still need to tweak it down some more. So, I just wanted to admit my idiocy and noobie-ism and report back that 1000D is more than adequate pushing the OEM sealed at 600w Now I have been introduced to 20 new rattles, haha. I'll have to get some foam stuff too.

You guys are beginning to give me a complex about liking sealed boxes. Is it biased against strictly due to output/efficiency? I've just also heard the rule about sealed for SQ and ported for volume. How do you determine a speaker won't be good sealed and when it should be ported? Just so I can understand myself. I mean if porting is really that pivotal in increasing output then I should just really consider porting my OEM and the 1000D should be enough with 600w? Or would even porting the OEM not be enough to help out the 1000D. I have tweaked my setup and it's right there about where I want it, but the gain is maybe 90% up. Other than that, I'm happy. The TC-7 likes large boxes, are there any 600w SQ subs under $200 that fit my needs with a say 1.cft sealed enclosure? Or could I just port my OEM and be able to keep the 1000D?

I've heard SLC's go deeper than that in Ramos' install Yes but Ramos isn't a basshead and there was no mention of deadening in the list of equipment above, so I will repeat the statement that you just quoted me on. I didn't mention it because it hasn't been done yet. I just got my RAAmmat yesterday but I couldn't wait for it to install my system. So maybe this weekend I can get to some deadening. I was told the SLC265's got into the 50hz range, though I probably wouldn't want them to go that low. The OEM sounds sweet. I have no complaints there, SQ is excellent. It just seems to want 100w-200w more because I have it sealed and in a trunk I guess. I'm not a basshead per say, but I do like to hear and feel the bass in music recorded as such like hip hop, R&B, etc, but I listen to a wide variety of music genres. I'm not sure about going ported because I'd need the PR, or at least I'm under the impression the OEM needs the PR to sound the best. So my options are upgrade the amp or the sub. How would a TC-1000 be with the 1000D? Or are there any other sub suggestions?

K, lot of comments, I'll try and get them all. Audio Junkie- It's not that I can't hear the sub, I'm being dramatic. It's in comparison to the comps, at normal volume, the sub isn't where I would like it. Equipment- stock HU (I know, I know, I know) David Navone LOC Rainbow SLC 265s + Sundown 100.2 OEM 10 sealed to .8 cft (as Audio Neon provided) + Sundown 1000D 1/0g power 4g ground As for the OEM, I'm confused because TC (on their boards) had said the sub was meant to run sealed and with the volume (and gain ) cranked, boy does it get into the deep notes. It's a very sweet sub. Damn. I like sealed because I'm after SQ not SPL. Additionally, I plan to build a custom fiberglass enclosure from my trunk's corner so I don't lose my trunk space to a wall of wood. I did that when I was a kid and it's not what I'm after now. So it's then either upgrade the amp or the sub? Damn. I spent most of the research narrowing it down to the Fi SSD and the OEM. I never got much feedback on the SSD but people were in love with the OEM (and I can see why) I don't know of many 10" subs that are SQ, need 600w or so and are under $200. Oh, and I'd want a D2 I guess right?

Ah, the 100.2 is A/B? I didn't know that. That explains a lot. It gets my SL265s moving, just would have liked to go 60hz or at least have the tuning ability to play around a little more. My Massive Audio A/B (different car) pushes comps and a sub and doesn't get as hot as the 100.2 so I wanted to make sure it was normal. Yes, my OEM is sealed and sound excellent at high volumes. It's the output at not ear splitting volumes where it isn't satisfying. I just don't like the size of ported enclosures very much. But if there is a huge difference I might try it (and I have the get the PR)

Yeah, I was looking at that earlier today. I was just curious if I could try 2 ohm. Oh well, guess I should have gotten the 1000D. I can't believe I let you talk me out of it. Hey, I might be selling my 1000D so Ic an upgrade to the 1500D

I have a 100.2 running Rainbow SLC265 comps and the amp run hot. Is it supposed to? I have gains all the way down, bass boost off and the Rainbows are very loud so I don't play them that loud often and yet the amp is pretty hot to the touch after 10-15 minutes. I was a little bummed to find the crossover only goes down to 75hz I also have the 1000D pushing my TC-OEM10 at 2ohms and wow, I can barely hear the sub (unless volume jacked up). The OEM really needs power I guess. I have the gains turned all the way up and it delivers what I was hoping for. Is that bad? Right now my comps are just wailing away and my sub can't keep up it's end. I'm just a little surprised that 600w isn't loud enough to balance with 100.2 + Rainbow comps. I guess I will have to sell the 1000D and upgrade to the 1500D?

Yea, I got confused to. A simple "connect a single speaker to either set of inputs as they are connected internally" or something right under the diagram would help. I think the fact the illustration shows two hard lines from the sub to the amp is confusing as no sub has two positive wires and one negative to run (to my knowledge). Maybe just show 1 + and 1 - wiring to just the left input or something.

I can't figure out, from the manual, how to wire a single DVC 4ohm to the 1000D? Can someone help?

Thanks for the info. So I would need the D1 so I can run it 2 ohm? I got confused with a D4 running at 2 ohm which is what I have now (ARC Audio 10") What are the thoughts about the Fi vs a TC-1000 or TC OEM10? Kinda stuck between all three. Looking for SQ.