Totalnewbie007

Thank you jacob, you got it, I havent had a system in several months, this is gonna be great, I'm going to make a fiberglass sphere and stick it in a my trunk.

I want it, how can I lock this in and pay

can i get a price on the 12 oddball neo ship to 33913

How much for 16 recones/softparts and glue if you still can or plan to for the first version old motor/basket

Can I pre-order 16 baskets, and soft-parts? Can you pm me a price on that?

Yup I was bored!

You should use a drywall saw, but I used a duct knife. You can pretty much use anything with a thick serrated blade Be careful of electrical wires running through the wall please! Otherwise you wont be happy!

Thank you! Everything was put together using old cases, wiring, ect. so that this project pretty much cost nothing but about 5-6 hours setup install, caulk and painting. The hardest part was mounting and caulking the case in the cutout, and filling my custom radiator/getting the air out (note the hand pump in the water cooling). I was very happy with the outcome! If any of you were wondering about cpu specs... 3.33 ghz e8600 e0 stepping o.c. to 4.5ghz stable. (1.312 v) Was able to boot 4.87, but doesn't prime. gtx 285, zotac amp edition. core 702; shaders 1512; memory 1296 (stock) 4 gb ram 1066 ddr 2; 5-5-5-15 26 2T 700watt psu 5 hhd (1 80gb C:, 3 80's stripped for programs/games, 1 2tb storage drive) p5n72-t premium, left voltages at auto/stock settings, 10x multiplier, 1800 fsb. Not the latest and greatest, but good for me. Waiting for better pricing/newer tech before I rebuild.

I would say circle jig then cut out between the circles by hand

Lol that is hilarious, must of bought the bike custom or had work and whomever did it apparently likes sundown.

if they could be coming within the next few months

what about the post themselves (the thing the screws go into) Mine are stripped, can I get new ones? and solder them in myself if necessary?

What did you end up building?

Well maybe if he was running at 250watts, that would be double the power, potential 3 db gain, wasn't really thinking, 3000 to 3500, would only be around a .5 db gain in a perfect environment I suppose. I did say maybe less...But, that 3000D will run ~ 2400-2700 watts would you say @ 1.33 ohms, a 4500D, would run closer to 3200-3500 watts...still only ~800 more watts. Get another 3000D strapped at .66 ohms per amp, now that's the ticket! lol... Not really worth it, plus that would be a little too much for the subs and low ohms for a daily.

I think you'd be happiest with a 4500 wired to 1.33 ohms. 3000D won't push them to their full potential, 3500D, only a few more watts, you'll only see maybe a 2-3 db gain over the 3000D, maybe even less. 4500D will give you 1500 to each at 1 ohm, 1.33, good electrical, good amp, probably close to that # still, as these amps are very nice.

Try a vinyl/plastic/flexible adhesive, Has worked for me in the past on smaller subwoofers, worth a shot.

I went ahead and uploaded my test tone disk, upped it to mega upload.... http://www.megaupload.com/?d=7WVBHS83

how high do i need to tune it for my size box? What kinda car do you have? Get a frequency sweep, or a set of tracks with ~30-60hz test tones... Run through them and see which ones are the loudest, I guess you have a sealed box, so your curve will peak close to the cars best gain...basically go through the tracks and find out which is the loudest... if 50 is the loudest, tune the box to 45hz or so and test that, if you like what you see, run with it, if not try a lower or higher tuning, and see if you can get any more output out of it. You should be able to break a 140 with 3 12"s on a 3000D wired to .66 ohms. try to find out the ideal port firing and speaker position in your car, if its a trunk car, depending on how you install it, if facing the cabin, seal off the trunk to help prevent cancellation. Good luck!

I dunno the output of the z2500, so I'm assuming 2500 watts, if you are talking about he saz 2500, then I would do 3 sealed, dual 2 ohms coils, wired in series to 4ohms, then the 3 in parallel for ~ 1.3 ohms. If you do 2, I would do either or both of these few things, build a smaller box, a slightly small flared port, tune low, anything to keep these from unloading too much. Or I'd wire the dual 2 ohm coils in a series parallel to get 2 ohms. If that amps rated power is at 1 ohm. You could get two subs w/ dual 4 ohms coils to get 1 ohm load, but run the risk of damaging the subs (maybe from mechanical before thermal), as they are rated for 600 watts. You could do three with dual 4 ohm coils, wired in parallel to .66 ohms, if you have the saz 2500 and a beefy electrical. (HO alt, big 3, multiple batteries, 0 gauge to the trunk) For burps, but I don't recommend that for a Daily driver, as you be putting a lot of stress on your equipment and something is bound to fail. So, it's your decision, how much money do you have to throw around?

Nice enclosure.

Bump~ Quick question, jacob will these have the same 7" cutout and 8 5/16" outer diameter w/ gasket (and without) as the v.1? Because I got my supplies and I would actually like to start working on my box while I wait for soft-parts and baskets

Mighty fine speakers, mmm 5200s

His narration is pretty funny.

Specs are per 8 subs 1/2 of the box, I used bb6 to calculate a box prism w/ a truncated edge, and basically doubled it and put both sides on top one another. Fb is actually the f3 on the picture, and the calculated fb for three 34" long 2"x10.58" ports @ 2.392 cubes is 45.26, but I did not take into account the flared aspect of the alligator mouth style of this box, but added it's length to the port length...so it kinda is a mystery.

haha yeah Project, 16 8's in a Bandpass IB Clamshell...In a Stratus.