StickyFingaz

One last thing: Will I need to isolate the deep cycle from the starter battery? If I run them in parallel will it cause damage or drain over time?

I am a member of CCA aswell, however looking into Deka there is an East Penn dealer withing driving distance, and $180 for 100ah is a crazy good deal especially if there is no shipping costs. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, now to find someone who will buy it for me for Christmas.....

Thanks for the info! I haven't looked into Deka yet, I will definitely check that out. Unfortunately, it can be difficult finding these specialty batteries in Canada, many places won't ship north of the border.

It was suggested to me on another site that I would require the increased capacitance from a deep cycle battery even after getting a HO alternator, as a battery will provide current to the amp faster than the alternator. Would my stock alternator be able to charge another trunk mounted battery (A Kinetik HC2000 or similar) between playing times (several hours)? Thanks for the help, I have requested quotes from most of the aforementioned vendors already, I just don't have the apx. $400 to get the HO alternator right now. That is why I am wondering if I would benefit from a cheaper solution like a deep cycle in the trunk.

I am thinking about beefing up the charging system in my ride. I have a 03' 1.7L Civic, and my amp is capable of 2500Wrms. Big three is done in 0AWG. Eventually, I would like to have a HO Alternator and multiple battery setup. What should my first step be? I feel like I should save up and get the HO Alternator first, as additional batteries, or a deep cycle battery is only a temporary solution. I have been considering purchasing a Yellowtop to put in the trunk for now, and moving it up front later after getting the HO alternator and a dedicated deep cycle for the trunk. I don't really use my system too often, but when I do I like to play it full tilt. Would my whimpy stock alternator be able to charge two batteries (the stock battery and Optima in the trunk) in between playing times (ie. several hours)? Or should I forget about multiple battery setups until I have a HO alternator and just replace the stock battery with an Optima or other Group 51 deep cycle battery? Any insight is appreciated!

What kind of glue did you use to attach the fabric to the painter's tape? Great install by the way I would love to see an update.

How much is too much though? I am building an enclosure for a 12" BTL, Fi recommends 16 sq inches per cubic ft, but most calculators and box building programs that I have been playing with suggest higher. Would 2.5 cubic ft with 43.5 square inches of port be too much?

I know that too small a port area will lead to port noise, but what happens if you have excessive port area? For example 20 sq inches per cubic ft of volume? I know many manufactures recommend 12-16 inches per cubic foot of volume, but is there a downside to going over this?

Nothing! I loved the Q, but it took too much abuse. Tinsel Leads broke after a few years. I have patched up the driver a couple times but it has just been too far damaged. I also just realized that the box it is in right now is too small for it, (Bad design error on my part) which I am sure has aided in its depreciation. The previous box it was in was fantastic but my new ride didn't have the trunk space for it. I really gave that speaker a beat down, but I loved it which is why I want another Fi Audio subwoofer. The more I think about it the more I am leaning toward the BTL fully loaded. It will be in a proper enclosure that will fit in my trunk a hell of a lot easier. It should handle any power that I can throw at it even if I upgrade my amp in the future. My biggest concern is that with that drop in cone surface area it won't be able to create that breathtaking low end that I have become accustom to from my 15" Q series! I should clarify that I meant an additional 800W RMS, not total.

I used to run a Q series 15", and I would like to match or exceed the output with my new purchase. The Q was presenting a 4ohm load on my amp so I by switching to dual 1ohm I hope to get close to 800W RMS from my amp. (the spec's show 2700Wrms into a 2ohm load but I am skeptical....) In an optimal enclosure can I expect this kind of output from a 12"BTL with the aforementioned options? Thanks for the feedback!

Both enclosures are within Fi's recommendations. However, the 15 would be in a relatively small box (3ft^3, with 12" port per cubic ft) and the 12 would be in a relatively larger enclosure (2.5, with 15" port per cubic ft). Both within recommended ranges but the 12" box is much more optimal. I suppose the question is more about box size than the drivers themselves. Which would be better 15 in a smaller box or a 12 in an optimal one?

Will be going into a 03 Civic sedan, and powered by a Ultimate T3-1000D (around 2000W RMS). 15" BL would have cooling, flatwind, and enclosure would be the following: 3.1 ft^3, 33hz, 43.5 in^2 of port 12" BTL would have cooling, HiXmCoil, and enclosure would be the following: 2.5 ft^3, 33hz, 37 in^2 of port I am wondering if the HiXmCoil would make up for the loss of surface area going from a 15 to a 12? Should I squeeze the 15 into a smaller box or give the 12 lots of room to breathe? I want to move as much air as possible but in a daily driver situation. Thanks in advance for responses and suggestions!

I always thought that you were never to tune a box below the Fs of a driver because it would unload if you played tones below the Fs???