MTA

yes I agree... it is a big difference... but... even in theory it is only 3.24dB in reality by adding that much power I should only gain 2dB maybe with some luck 2.5dB dont get me wrong I love these subs... Im just trying to figure out if being as stiff as they are if that could cause that much loss in SPL ? one more question... nothing has changed in the box at all... but swapping out the subs to put in the BTLs is it possibnle the frequency changed by 3-4hz also ? anyone seen this happen before?

well we did more testing tonight... did consistent 155.7 - 155.9's with one AB 500.1 also did power test 3756 watts ... at those numbers seems like I need to do death match to soften them up a bit... last year the van did 160.7dB ( found my pictures) with 2 amps power output was only 78xx watts ... or is it possible that the MT is aprox 3dB louder than the BTL 's we just put in the van ? or are they that desperate for breaking i n? they are still tighter than a virgin on her first date

I love death match... it puts the sub at its best...if it cant do death match for 5 mins at 1/2 power in testing..it cant do a 3 second burp at full power! thats just my opinion... just like seen in the lanes in death match...if u rememebr when TEAM LOUD came across the ocean to compete at finals a few years back... they did 175x i believe in death match then still burped 3db higher without charging thats the crazy chiet... too bad they retired

thanx Scott... no biggie.. I just like comparing what the sub does in a program compared to real life in the enclosure in a vehicle... the van is already built nad somewhat loud last 2x show it was at did 156.2dB off a single American Bass 500.1 and they still havent been broken in...when i come back from vacation I will do a few deathmatch runs to break them in should be able to do a 155dB for 5 mins straight in 2005 with 4 matts 3000.1d and 4 mt 15's was able to do 157x for 5 mins straight...this is in street max 3-4 we'll see whatt happens ..I will keep you posted how things are doing thanx again for your help

They are likely NOT sealed off as well as they should be due to having fold-down seats. That may well contribute to the problem. Even properly sealed off though, I'm doubt the 8s would give me the SPL I'm looking for right now. These 8s are actually 8 ohm speakers so the four of them get about 200-215w each. Regardless though, I'm not wanting to change that or anything about the install of the 8s. They are great with anything as long as I don't turn them up too loud. I'm just wanting to toss in a well made enclosure with 1 or 2 12s in it. It's gotta sound very good and gotta make my ears tingle a bit. I want to be able to take the 12s out if I'm going on a road trip and/or need the extra trunk space. Then I'll still have the 8s in there. Keep in mind I'll disconnect the 8s when the 12s are running and vice-versa. I've seen suggestions to go with a pair of copper core SSD 12s at my power level (each getting 600w). I could maybe go that route. I could also consider a single ported 12 which could get the whole 1200w. If I do that, I want to ensure that it won't have much less SPL than the pair of 12s. Hard to think that a single 12 would out-SPL a pair of 12s, even ported on twice the power, but please correct me if I'm wrong. I'll be ready to purchase/order tomorrow so keep the input coming please! Thanks!!! if thats the way you want to stay then the only concern I would have is the pressure from the 12 or 12's acting against the 8's since they are IB no protection... the otehr would be to build a single 12 box ported facing forward and tune it really low and allow the 8" to only play low midbass 50-120hz and let the 12 play 50 and down... if u get a sub with the proper ciol config and a well designed box it will be better than a pair of 12's in a sealed box.. and your 8's wont suffer from the 12"

the 8's cant keep up because they are JL... now might be a different story if u had 8w7... but im not a big JL fan period... I would say maybe talk to the guys here at Fi and have them build u 4 Fi Q8" if the motors will fit the baskets and that should solve your problem , and just build a small sealled box under therear deck for them... u will have 80% trunk and subs that can handle the power the otherthing is I understand u like your trunk space and Ib does that for you...but it is difficult to keep control with that big of a trunk with that much power... I simply dont think they can handle 300 watts each in IB setup. btw..how sealed is your trunk from the rest of the car? do your seats fold down? if so are they properly sealed to the trunk when they are up? any airleaks in IB will act like a leaking sealed box and cause the subs to loose control under higher output levels just my 2 c worth...

yes thicker is better... it will make the enclosure stronger and less resonant, which in return gives more output.

Please contact me via email [email protected] or Scott if u can contact me, u can reach me by phone from 10am-10pm EST I really need to speak with u guys thanx Peter

like bigjae said above go sealed... simply because to get a good sounding ported box you dont have the room under that seat in your truck...Ive tried it... ended up doin a centre console with a pair of 10's

looks like its coming along really nice... hellova good job on it so far... wish I could feel it when its all done

oh excellent... I will need a several of them sooo much easier to strap a pair of amps on a single woofer to get power when ur impedance will be 2.0-2.2 after impedance rise Scott ... which one will take more power? the copper or alum? obviously the alum will be lighter... am I correct assuming this? and what is the coil length between the two? which will have a higher BL?( coils in parrallel) my original MT I had as a 12" in my "Jack Rabbit" was able to take a serious ass kickin especially during my testing long nights, it took 10kw no problem, that was with the copper dvc 1.4 coil, with a pair of 12's was able to do 161.2dB on AC190 certified in IDBL Advanced 1

is the mt dvc 1.4 copper coil available through u guys here at Fi?

thanx..I got a reply from Scott today to my email...I guess the new topic helped

thanx i'll try that Ive even tried calling during regular work hours and left a message... I understand busy, but, need to call ppl back too to keep busy. Some ppl want to spend money... lol

best thing is to always pop ur subs with a 9v battery a few times to make sure subs are in phase before hooking up to an amp ... sub moves up the wire that touches the positive terminal of the battery is the positive wire of the sub... if sub doesnt move at all you have the voice coils counter acting against each other...check ur connections to the terminals

15.2 + volts? damn.. can u charge my car for me at the next show ? lol u need a new regulator in the alternator... its a chrysler thing... does your check engine light come on because of it?

there is a CSPL show at Peel Audio Video in Brampton... u coming out? and usually before bigger shows we go testing at the costco beside the brick on dundas..its literally one Km from my house

NickV where are you located? are you local to where the show was held this weekend? I live literally 10 minutes from that shop... so if you need some help tuning I have been at this for quite a while... U seemed quite excited and into the whole thing... I dont mind helping ppl like you... the ones that whine and cry makes me just ignore them im the one in the blue neon ..its so loud the paint is falling off the drivers door ... just kidding... but hey if u want help just ask Ive been in the car audio industry for 16 years and maybe we can find a sloution to your mysterious subs acting the way they do

this was an original MT recone I used that ripped off the coil, the one I received from u with d0.6 is still holding up no scrape but once i put a little more power it does start to slap. its a ported enclosure, for street C , 49-51hz, box is aprox 3.5cu.ft(after all displacements total is about 6.4cuft before port,sub and all the bondo and fibreglass I used to round off the inside) with 133 in.sq. port...dont rememebr the length... but its long... power out aprox 6000 watts reactive when it begins to happen but again the other coil was the original d0.7 this is the new one with d0.6 any more ideas? btw I also need to speak with you in person... what time of day is good for you to talk? we are 3hrs difference 9:30 amp here -> u will be 6:30 am

like the topic says im experimenting with my RE MT to see which coil amp combination will work best, so I would like to know thanx guys , and is there a longer version of the original dual 0.7(actual quad 1.4) coil ?? im in dire need of xmax to get louder... im hearing slapping when i get that sub moving alot( could i be bouncing off the dust cap? I dont think im bottoming out)... last time i ripped the coil right off of the spiders (quad stiff) that was with 4 ab 500.1 gain all the way down ( only got them to produce 75xx watts before sub exploded)or should I be using a different basket with 10" spiders? btw this is a 15" with 12 spoke basket

thanx final score was 155.8dB on only one American Bass 500.1 not much power because of the impedance rise..I think maybe around 3000-3500 watts

I will pass my phone number on si I can speak with you since I will not have access to a computer for most of the day I need to buy 4 15" BTL's fully loaded with the best SPL options I need them absolute latest by monday or tuesday or even wednesday morning next week for the 3x db drag in Niagara Falls Ontario on the 28 & 29th I also need t o talk to you about the coil configs and the options of the motors sorry i posted this in the wrong forum

well got the subs on time here in Ontario yesterday morning Thanx Scott damn those look nice... hooked them up no breaking in, no testing just hooked up and burped off of a single Soundstream 10kw on 2 NSB90's in Street Max 3-4 and did a 155.xdB tomorrow well do some testing to see if frequency has changed and we're hooking up 2 American Bass 500.1's hoping to push a 159-160dB with just the 2 amps might have to deathmatch it a few times to break them in tho ... lol thanx again Scott and the rest of the crew

a single 15" MT in a 3.25 cu ft enclosure with 130 sq in port area and very well rounded interior of enclosure or two 15" MT's with only 50sq in port area in aprox 4 - 4.5 su ft of box volume assuming same amount of power is used peak frequency is 49 Hz if that really matters

what is the port length or port tuning frequency? your subs will not play well if its playing below port tuning try setting the subsonic filter to on on your amplifier and adjust it to a few hertz just below your port frequency... that should help