MTA

just ask Scott to send u some coils they have the proper size you need... I believe available impedance is true DVC 0.6 DVC 0.7(true quad 1.4) and DVC 1.4(true quad 2.8)

im not gonna boast how amazing Audiobahn is its ok stuff... kids like bling... the buy Audiobahn and are happy with it... nothing wrong with that. Ive owned many AB products...sure its not up to par with FI but it holds its own... I dont know how u can say you've put so little power to your subs and the smoked so fast... I used a set of old Immortals for almost one full year of SPL actually a pair of 12's quad 2's( re was 1.8) with 4 American Bass 200.1's and they took it with grace... I will admit that they did smell a bit but that is well past their power ratings. that year I went to about 20 some shows and they held up... only issue I had the 3 point was weak in the glue joint but a little bit of GOOP over their factory brittle glue worked wonders... for their time the 12's had tons of Xmax. still got the motors and reconed them with FI parts as the coils smoked when I stepped upto a 16 volt system and had measured almost 10kw per sub... not bad for AB junk eh? dont bother replying with bashing comments to that... this is just my experience... I sold alot of AB and never had issues as like what u are saying im sure the AQ's are a better sub but then surely must have cost a bit more than teh AB stuff

are you possibly playing below port frequency? now if its not tinsel slap chances are you are bottoming out the spiders on the first step of the 12 spoke basket... the 15" is the only one to have this problem under high excursion... I reconed my sub with a 1/4" spacer between basket and spiders and also offset the coil by 1/4" to realign it... no more slapping. but I am using my sub for SPL and had 2 - 4 Powerbass XA3000's on it playing in a box that was total 6.5 with 133sq in of port tuned for 49hz

you dont aim them towards the floor... the horn goes parallel to the floor with the opening/flare facing towards your knees/shins...common placement for your midbass drivers is at the base of your front seat facing upwards and helps direct the high frequencies upwards toward your head... resulting in a pretty good soundstage. in that area u could do 2 or 3 6.5" or even a pair of 8"midbass drivers to give you plenty midbass output to keep up with the 18's and the horns... a good set of horns and midbasses can keep up with 8 12" subs assuming you have the power to make it go.

car:1995 Dodge Neon Electrical:factory alt, 2 31 series Optima Yellow Tops, 2 Pos and 2 Neg 1/0 cable plus Big 3 Amps:4 Powerbass XA3000d's Subs:1 15" RE MT Box: BIG Ported Mic:TL ofcourse Tone:49Hz Score: 154.2dB DB Drag LEGAL Street C car:1999 VW Jetta Electrical:factory alt, 2 31 series Optima Yellow Tops, 1 Pos and Neg 1/0 cable Amps:2 Powerbass XA3000d Subs:1 15" Fi BTL Box: HUGE 8.625 cu.ft. TOTAL Mic:TL ofcourse Tone:46Hz Score:149.0dB DB Drag LEGAL Street C ... just got this car so it will definatelly be getting louder after I replace the cracked windshield car: 1994 Chevy S10 Electrical: 150amp alternator, 6 34/78 Optima Yellow Tops, 1 Pos and 1 Neg 1/0 Cable Amps:4 Powerbass XA4000d Subs: 4 FI BTLs Box: HUGE 38 cu.ft. TOTAL Mic:TL ofcourse Tone:52Hz Score: 157.4dB DB Drag Legal Super Street 3-4

I am one of those ppl always looking for repair/recone kits... thats just what I do... I take old broken subs and rebuild them to be better than original most of the time... I can even recone an old style Audiobahn Immortal simply by slapping a 12 spoke basket on it and gettin good ol' Scott to hook me up with some soft parts... I use their parts simply cause they are so damn strong! Use rarely breaks a sub... stupidity most often such as ppl not knowing how to design a box and then driving subs well past their ratings. once again ... thanx Scott and the rest of Fi for the parts. btw if u can say abuse then u'll know what im thinking... Scotty special built BTLs 4 15's took 8 American Bass 500.1s NO PROBLEM... they wanted more

I am one of those ppl always looking for repair/recone kits... thats just what I do... I take old broken subs and rebuild them to be better than original most of the time... I can even recone an old style Audiobahn Immortal simply by slapping a 12 spoke basket on it and gettin good ol' Scott to hook me up with some soft parts... I use their parts simply cause they are so damn strong! Use rarely breaks a sub... stupidity most often such as ppl not knowing how to design a box and then driving subs well past their ratings. once again ... thanx Scott and the rest of Fi for the parts. btw if u can say abuse then u'll know what im thinking... Scotty special built BTLs 4 15's took 8 American Bass 500.1s NO PROBLEM...

Hey Scott, been a while... once again need your services for some recones, starting off with a standard recone for an RE XXX 15" (old style '05) with 2 spiders and DVC 1.4 coil I have a few more parts I need, a bit of a list, let me know if u prefer an email about it ill check back here later

nice job on the box..that should pound pretty good in there I would only add one more suggestion... get a grilll for the sub so u dont accidentally ram ur seat against the cone and surround

check your mail please

thanx Scott for getting it on its way... too bad I forgot about dust caps... : ( atleast I still have one left over from my last order can you please send out a dozen unprinted caps using regular USPS snail mail ... not a big rush but I do need it to do my own sub

from the BTL I have in the car right now at 8.6cu.ft total @ 46hz port it doesnt sound good... but tuned at 32hz it sounds better but they dont like playing music at high volume... Id change to a sub like th Q if u want good sound I got 3 kw on it

I always do rounding with 4" diameter in my the corners of SPL boxes (using body filler/fibreglass) not 45* angles... then resin the box and sand to smooth... I gain anywhere from 0.5 -2 dB more gain noticed in smaller boxes and the smoother you do it. in my original design I make sure I will have enough space that I dont make the box too small to tune properly.

hope this helps give u some ideas for your build

also my best friend besides deck screws is PL Premium construction adhesive I think I went through about 24 tubes of the stuff..but anywhere the 2x4's touch the body or frame I put on an extra thick bead to make sure no rattles of wood against metal and also where I could I screwed into the metal frame of teh truck( ofcourse I had permission from the owner) heres a few pics I found ... the almost finished product is still in my camera as u can see tehre is still lots of work to be done... bondo all the corners and such..there have been angle added into the back corners since these pics

Yeah we've been thinking of layering up some more, we have a lot more space than we know what to do with so the box can be big enough to compensate for being layered up even 4 layers thick with mdf. I was told it was a good idea to build a wall where the box will sit, just fit a woofer of some kind in there and RTA it to find the trucks resonate frequency with the wall in place and tune the port for that to get the most out of the set up. That would probably sound like chit but makes sense to put down the highest number possible within reason. Ideally we'd be able to swap ports between an SPL comp only port and ground shaking fun low tune. I'm all for doing whatever we can to built the strongest box possible, metal work just isn't exactly our thing. So maybe more plys of mdf and good bracing +steel rod reinforcement in the center should do the trick. if ur not into welding build urself a nice frame to work with..maybe 2x4's or even 4x4's for extra strength... I did it in an S10 cut-through... ill see if I can find some build pics ... but its very solid with only 1" thick walls and the 2x4 frame... the complete enclosure is internally 48"wide x 31"high x 44"deep and it holds 4 15" subs( at the moment the old DB drive platinum subs) the Fi BTL's are laying on the floor with no time to try them... so far did 153.62 on TL with only a single Powerbass XA3000d

it's understandable... but can u imagine how pissed a customer gets when u explain to him that 2 weeks later his sub still hasnt been reconed... btw... Im not that young on a side note: Scott(ficaraudio) if ur reading this Id just like to confirm that my order has been shipped out. please let me know or email me a tracking number so I dont need to bother you anymore

well figure out your 1/4 wave frequency... then cut that in half and tune to that frequency( ie: if 1/4 frequency is 70Hz tune wall to 35Hz ... a durango I believe to be in low 70 for 1/4 wave)... it will still yield good SPL numbers while sounding really good on the looooooooow notes... plus it will do really nice hair shows btw... tuned low with only 2 x 3/4 ply is too too weak.. try building a steel cage in the truck first then attach the MDF to that if u dont want to use steel..try basically building a frame like in a house that gets pretty strong too also if u want to do this u might be best building 4 boxes altogether for strength like said earlier there are many many ways to tackle this..the best way is to build the biggest box and start from there

Nice catch MTA! How do you have the sub wired Chris? Test it and make sure it's wired to 1 ohm. You should have a dual 2 ohm voice coil sub wired in parallel to do so. Wiring diagrams for subs thanx.. but hey after doin stupid chit for 16 years you figure out how to do it right eventually. Im a full time custom intaller and hardcore SPL'er, I gotta know these things to do my job right now I just need to spell correctly so I can stop editing my posts

what voice coil do you have? and at what impedance does your amplifier put out full power? power (P) = voltage (V) x amperage (I) amperage = measurement of current lets say if it really is putting out 55volts and you have dual 2 ohm coils... common impedance rise is 3x or higher in a listening box now this would put you at about 6 ohms to get amperage it is current (I) = voltage (V) / resistance,impedance

bump

I understand you are a busy person... but could I really get a reply to this... Ive sent 2 emails now... I will resend it just to make sure it doesnt get burried. Thanx its labeled "RECONES" coming from [email protected]

Thanx Scott. Email sent titled "RECONES"

anyone heard from Scott (FiCarAudio) lately?

sorry guys but this one "Team Northern SPL second place in dB Drag Racing - Street Max 3-4 with a 161.7" didnt use the FI BTL's last minute changes and we needed different coils to run 8 amps so had to use the T3's but you can add Don Doyle 7th in Street A 151.5dB with only a single 12" in a trunk( thanx for the recones Scott) I believe he was the ONLY trunk car in STREET classes