TRZ

I am working on an SAE-50.4 and an SAX-250.2 for release sometime next year. The 50.4 may be sooner as it is a much higher demand piece. I have had protos for both... not sure that I am totally happy with either, so there will be revision before either is ready. A 6-channel is planned with no information on release time frame at all right now. I am thinking something like 75 x 4 and 125 x 2 for that one so you can bridge the "big" channels for a sub. If things go very well MAYBE towards the end of next year. As for a 6kw... that will have to wait a while, big amps like that are very costly and aren't big sellers. Not a good combo for a new company if you ask me. VERY few people even have electrical systems to support the SAZ-3000D properly. I've got a few sub lines I would like to build in between all this too... sorry, no information at this time. The current SD-1 is actually doing quite well and has suprised a few people 6 Channel sounds gooooooooood!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Would love to see a high quality line driver (epicenter) that has a remote which shows volts on rca's ,at the receiving box so you know the actual volts at that point. Also helpful so you don't chance burning up the inputs on the amp .Plus an aux port to hook up a optional in car db meter (display) .Just thinking out loud, sorry Jacob. Or maybe a series of amps that have a display with volts (low level) at amp and actual gain setting (digital)and clipp indicator for guys that don't have a scope and use amps for everyday driving maybe a high end piece for sq?

If you don't have any of the above us a pipe wrap. You can buy one at a local welding supply shop like National Welders , Airgas ,or somewhere like that. They are cheap and precise and you can reuse them .They are used for cast , steel ,plastic and acrylic pipe. Just wrap it and mark it . If you can't find one use a piece of construction paper and wrap it around the pipe making sure it lines up perfectly with itself. :morning: You may also use any table saw. Simply set the guard (fence) at the desired length and use a 40 or 60 tooth blade. Hold it against the fence and roll it just as you come in to the blade. If the piece you are working on is too tall, use a piece of wood and clamp it too the fence for added height.

I said it would be around the same power not more powerful. I know those amps very well your forgetting I'm a dealer for them ,and I sell them and install them.I have not actually tested the 1500 strapped. I'm simply using the test results off this forum. which I would hope to be somewhat accurate. Z1's or Z1a's? Testing against Z1's would be pointless since they don't have near the power of a Z1a. My shop is Tremorz Auto Sound it's located in NC check under dealer zip 28677. Now what's your credentials you played with one amp maybe ? or just read some blown up post on soundpressure forum?because I can honestly say that forum and it's addm. are full of sh&* .If you think you will produce 5000 watts@ 1 ohm at 13.8 even 14.4 volts "where it was suppose to be for factory charging systems" you are mistaken. Those amps are not that eff. You can get it at 15/16 volts.I know several people that will change their amps to sundown shortly from DD.. As I said before the z1a is a beast and with the proper voltage and ohm load they will have an advantage but I am simply going off the numbers tested and posted on this forum for (2) saz1500 strapped. I 'm also well aware of what the Z1A were built for. I will test 2 saz strapped shortly for myself. If the Z1A is sooooo gooooood how come your running SAZ 1500's in your ride, riddle me this????????????????? Regardless of what you paid for them ,In comps it's all about the win.And if I thought that I could win with DD over sundown I would without a doubt run DD amps that's a no brainer. But yet you run saZ 1500. Now DD subs that's a whole different story ,those thing demolish all that stands in their way! I don't even stock DD amps anymore because of problems and warranty issues.

You are confusing the Z1 with the Z1a. There's no confusion I said Z1A. the z1 would break if you looked at them funny that's a fact.Then they came out with the Z1A and it still has some issues .What's next Z1A 1/2 or 3/4. I sell their stuff and it is some of the best stuff out there, but ever company has some bugs to work out.

I said it would be around the same power not more powerful. I know those amps very well your forgetting I'm a dealer for them ,and I sell them and install them.I have not actually tested the 1500 strapped. I'm simply using the test results off this forum. which I would hope to be somewhat accurate.

I am a DD dealer and can honestly say the z1a is a beast but it has a lot of issues that have to be worked out. The SAZ1500 will give you around the same output when strapped and should be a little less expensive. It can also take some abuse at lower ohm loads. As for Kicker their amps are ok but you have to mortgage your home to own one.And if you take off name tags everyones amps are all circuitry in the end. It's who can produce what they say with the lowest THD , most stable ,and the most eff. It's not how much money the can take from you in a sale and turn into POP/marketing. Most of your smaller companies put revenue back into their product for R&D, and more products to offer which is a plus for consumers.

Birth sheets are overrated. I seriously question whether most of the companies that supply them with their amplifiers actually test them in accordance with what is on the sheet. I've spoken with people in the industry before that have openly admitted to just writing estimated numbers in the boxes and never actually testing the specs on each individual amplifier. The problem is they need to have a standard of measurement that all amp manufactures use that's of real world. All testing equipment would be of the same brand and calibration with all area's of the test followed to a strict guide line.and at real world voltages 12.8 volts not 14.4 and up .The current CEA testing is not very reliable because the manufacture still documents the # and then sends them in.

Saturday I installed 3-Sd1 10" subs and 1 -SAZ 1500 amp in a 1998 Honda Civic 4dr. The subs were in a 3.40 cu.ft ported 3/4" mdf box that was braced accordingly. The ripple was -1.0 / fs was 25hz/fb was tunned to 34 HZ. Enough of the tech mumbo jumbo. I knew the system would sound accurate due to the ripple and natural QTS of the sub ,but I did not think it would be that L.O.U.D!!!!!!! These little ten inch 250 watt subs sounded impressive to say the least. The low freq extensions were accurate and flawless. They are taking the power well. The set up also did not fall flat on it's face in the upper subsonic freq ranges. They were a little sloppy at 60 hz plus but that could be cured with a smaller enclouser around 3.0 cu ft some low end freq extensions would be sacrificed but what the FU#$% more do you won't out of a sub that cost around $110.00! The SD-1 are made in the USA not China, Korea, Yugoslovia ,or wherever. Welcome home HiFi now lets open a can of woop A$$ on some foreign garbage (MEMPHIS)(Crossfire)(and yes China Kicker). "Did I say that out loud and pi$$ off anyone. I'm sorry "Well not really!" To give you an idea of how they sound it is like having the attack of 1989 Mtx Blue thunder 10" with the bandwidth of a early 90's JL Audio 10" and the volume of an early 90's Kicker Competition 12". (That is for the old school guys like me ,who compare everything to the glory days). For you newer guys, they sound like DD 2510's .They are not as loud ,but have that same tightness to them. Good job Jacob. It takes something to make me spell check for this long, after 14 years in the bay. Long live Sundown ,or at least until I take a dirt nap.

You said you might buy 2 more mojo amps 4k ,think of it this way look at price and customer service.If the mojo are more expensive for the same power than the saz3000 are. then it's a no brainier. Also look at input voltage and see if they can accept 18volts in. How sensitive are the low level inputs. What kind of distortion are they rating their amps at. What kind of test was done to get their rated power. Correct me if I'm wrong they are a 2 ohm mono amp pretty sad for this time and place. I'm sure that you can't buy a 4k memphis amp for less than $1700.00 and up (new) w/papers. That's almost 2 of the SAZ3000 . If you got 4/SAZ3000 for the price of 2/4k or slightly over ,then you could sell your 2 /4k that you already have and spend little or nothing in total.

couple 8 volt's batts. reding 17.98 volt's and dropping to 15 and some change when I burped it. only doing 150.2 on 16 volt's and doing 150.7 on 12 volt batts Did you isolate your batteries from the other part of your oem syst? Did you get a alt capable of 16volt of output? Your stock alt is made for 14.4 volts give or take ,so that it does not cause damage to your sensitive O.E.M electronics .If you just installed batteries in the rear of your vehicle in series with each other it is likely not to work properly and could damage the electronics in your vehicle .You would need to upgrade your charging syst to a 16 volt alt H/O ,Isolate the rear from the front (that includes the ground for the 16 volt leg also) and regulate the front to 14 volts and add some battcaps , kinetics , or some form capacitence/storage for your amp(s).Simply putting batteries in is not going to work very well. I would say it might be more practical to add more battcaps/batteries at 14.4 volts and maintaining that 14.4 volts with no or little voltage drops and possible adding another amp or epicenter .It might save you some headaches and money compared to upgrading to a true 16 volt system?

Ohms Law say's your trippin .How did you get 17 volts, explain?

Windows are over rated. One less window to worry about breaking. More power ,less hearing :rocking: :foshizzle: :wackit:

Test it with the car running at 1200 rpm and up no battery charger your looking for real time and I think It would depend on freq I would test it at it's tunning freq and then maybe a slow sweep? but usually we try to keep it less than 1 volt everyday and slightly different for comps(dynamic)varies on current draw and amps eff. at full power. Sounds like you need some Battcaps or bigger alt .Try to stay away from deep cycle batt though there made for 12.5 volts

Here is a suggestion for sub/ amps / components: You need to figure out what your budget is . do you want loud spl(loud) or sq(fidelity)? for loud try SAZ 1500 AMP w/ L7 12" kicker should run around 1k for sq try SAZ 1500 w/ DD 2512 /or ID max should run around the same price for component / amp sax100.4 w/ any good name brand component set that fits the bill and have the shop set it up with a scope. There are 1 million ways to get what you want but you need to find one for yourself .

Sounds like you mounted the amp on the box or on a area not suitable for it ,Or your rca's need to be changed out Try the v10. Tsunami RCA's (pretty good stuff).Last try a continuity test on the ground and read the ohms should be 1 or 0. Hope this helps.

I think they need to look at pricing again? they are compairing $3000.00msrp amps (over priced crap) to a $399.00 4 channel that lets face it ,if you were to switch their amps out with sundown ,with out them knowing it they would never know.I think they should come to my shop were I can sell them a fancy named foreign amp for $3000.00 or what ever there dumb $%%$ will pay for it. Most of the amps they were discussing (DD,US,SONY , JBL )ARE MADE IN KOREA OR CHINA or have parts made there. If I could reach through the screen I would Bit$% slap their dumb A%@. Hell I own a shop and have found through the years that it's more important to have good wiring and components. :bsflag: Everbodys an EE. They sure can tell a lot from a picture.

:worthless: I would have to agree with this post. Z1's are strong but will break no doubt .I am a DD dealer and won't use there amps. I just changed to Sundown and their amps work great with some power to spare. Plus I don't think they are manufacturing the z1's any longer because on my latest price sheet it is not listed! Only the Z2's are listed? Any other dealers noticed this?