farriswheel

Here are some vids of my nightshade 18". I have a autotek mm4000.1 now(videos are with ap3000). Im wired @ 2ohms, after rise it see's 6 ohms, with 2400 watts. I did 150.7@42hertz, at the headrest. This was done at meca world finals. Comments appreciated, just wanting to see what people think. And here's a tiny hairtrick, not bad for a single sub.

Yep, it will be slightly different for caspers, hopefully louder. And it does suck, no playing whatsoever throughout the day. But a few times a day they let everyone flexs for about 2 minutes, it gets intense. And thanks ben! About the pipe, it looks like its farther out then what it is. Its about 2" farther out than my mirror.

lol thanks. the exhaust tip was a stack(its a diesel), but when i put the enclosure in the bed, it had to go somewhere else. And i make my own ports, 8" flares.

what size enclosure, tuning?

since you resined it, you might not need it. but it's not to hard to cut a cross brace and glue it in. just to be safe i would. what sub is going in it?

I don't mean to keep asking, but were they $50 a piece? I asked paul if he would sell them, and he said they were expensive and thier other cones were out of stock. I believe he doesnt want to do business with me, after the voice coil situation

those aren't bad scores. however how much extra was the spl cone?

btw does you're PAP subs get loud?

If you have the room go for a 15" BTL

Ive been emailing scott about trying to get soft parts for my dayton audio mk3 15". i think he said he'll sell them to me. ive had a lot of trouble getting parts for the sub, including me getting ripped off(Pierce audio), dayton audio doesn't even have a recone kit for it!

pics?

I liked w6's also, sounded nice and got loud(in the setup i heard). But the q's would cost less.

are you sure its under $400?

pm sent(i think) let me know if it didn't send, my sent box is still empty

what size vc?

well jason, you get for what you pay for. you could get the spl, but i would predict alot of trouble out of it. though ive never owned one. also, he ran his orion to a 2 ohm load for a couple of months. though the gain was less than half going to the aq. however, if he got 2, he would be pushing alot out of his amps considering the sub can take it(it's dual 2 btw). now if he had the gains all the way up, would his orions last? they are rated to go down to 4 ohms, not 2. but i don't have a whole lot of experience with orion amps. about his voltage, it was up so high due to the fact that he was revving it. and it was a short burp. It would have easily been down to about 11.1 if not that. I personally think the alternator would help. he also wants an spl enclosure. Im going to test what he has to help determine what i should tune it to. I was thinking same size(cant get bigger), slot ported with roughly 75 sq. inches of port tuned to around 45-50 hertz, depending on what i choose.

i think i do.. does it make a huge diff?

just finished testing.... 140.4 on music 142@47hertz. gain turned somwewhat down

lol you really like to argue with me.

I still don't get why you think you're an expert. Again, I'll listen to my dad, over 27 years of experince. Im not saying i know everything either, i don't think your right on the amp at all. So there's no such thing as a slightly underated amplifier?

The idea is to align the rear wave with the front wave. This means that the front wave starts at 0 degrees and reaches the reference point at the dash at 90 degrees. On the flipside, the rear wave of the speaker starts at 180 degrees and reaches the dash in-phase with the front wave at 90 degrees. This means that the rear wave of the speaker must be exactly three times the length of the front. In equation form: 3A = B + C + D what do you mean,"what have i been smoking"? please, tell me why i am wrong. lottsa rude people here

the ports also have to take 3x as long to get to the meter as the sub, I THIINK.

speed of sound is 1130f/s. Inches is better for vehicles, easier to calculate. so 12" times 1130 is 13,560 inches/second. Now you measure the distance from the cone to the meter(the whole path it takes). remember the soundwave comes out of the front of the cone at 90 degress(straight) and out the back at 180. once you get the distance from the cone to the meter placement in inches, you divide that into 13,560. you will probobly get a high number, which is suspected. Since its 90 degrees, 1/4 waveform will be used. So 13,560/distance=x/4.

well, i have to say that you guys aren't too smart. WOW! youv'e competed in a soundoff! OMG! wtf how does that make you an expert. my dad has hand built many amps. From tubes to some solid state. been to college FOR designing certain electronics. ive learned much of what i know from him. I'm going to stick with what he tells me instead of you. also, someone on another forum had the same amp benched for 1286 watts. might not be the exact amount but whatever. and the amp was priginally matched to an AQ not a btl.

it has a 100 amp fuse. wattage= ampsxvolts. now correct me if im wrong, but at 12 volts, wouldn't it put around that much turned up all the way?