handman84

34's and 31's have more lead etc. in them giving higher cca's, and in the case of deep cycles, high rc and 20hr capacity...more power. If you are going to put batteries in the back I would stick with a 51 in the front, mainly for ease of install like bassink stated. You will not have to worry about your aux. batteries draining your starting battery as long as you isolate them with a solenoid relay or isolator. They disconnect your starting battery from the batteries powering your system when you turn your ignition off, keeping your starting battery from draining. Be careful running 2k off of a group 51 though, unless your car is running of course, as that will drain your battery pretty fast.

His tip on hanging CCF MLV barrier with velcro was so helpful. Now I can still get to my door internals if need be with zero hastle

Just a shout out to Don of SoundDeadenerShowdown! Shipped me everything I needed to treat my doors at a great price. Answered all my questions and then some and even saved me a few dollars by keeping me from buying more than I needed. His product exceeded all of my expectations and the fact that I was able to help a small business was icing on the cake. Thanks Don! The only problem now is that the engine and road noise I couldn't hear before is coming through loud and clear Time to start saving up to treat the rest of my vehicle

Thats what was so confusing! It doesn't seem like it is real time, but if it isn't that is a complete PITA. Maybe you can set it and download it or use it real time if your phone is connected via usb...as far as others settings, ya completely useless. I can't even find out for sure if you can tune it without the app. I'm sure you can, but the limited info seems to focus only on the app. That sucks because this is the first hu that has what I'm looking for, (rear usb, hd radio, bluetooth, active tuning, cd player, and a look and design I like) Then they have to complicate things

Sick dude! I have a '96 accord so watching your build gives me an idea of what my setup could look like. I've torn that dash apart so many times it makes me think, "Hey, that's my car. I could do something like that!" Keep up the good work man and keep sharin' those pics!

The FIRST comment anyone has ever made about my setup when I demo it for them is, " It's so clear!" I love it! I have also heard, " It's so clean " lol nobody cares how loud 1 12" can get, the only feedback I get is how great the SQ is...

More and more impressed with my gcon every day. 12" on 500 watts in 2.5' 33hz enclosure and it can blurr my vision. Never thought that output could be had at that price point on so little power...SSA!...enough said ;-)

**sigh** No. Damn! I will be tearing apart my door this weekend and taking more detailed measurements.

I am definitely willing to fiberglass the pillars, whatever will give me the cleanest sound stage. I guess I would just have to leave these tweeters in to fill the holes in my door panels... I have more room behind the grills than it looks like, but not much. about an inch-and-a-half from speaker to panel, that is with the speaker mounted on stock half-inch baffle. as far as height goes it is about 6.5" but I can gain another half inch or so if I cut the plastic "rib", for lack of a better word, around the grill on the back side of the door panel. There is more room behind there than it looks like

Great job man! Tuned in for sure. Please tell us what you think when it is up and running. I plan on getting a 15" XCON for my next sub and am very interested to hear what your thoughts are. Keep it up, looks great!

Sealed my box with resin, waited 5 days before I mounted my sub and put the box in my trunk, got in the car the next day and could smell the resin. It wasn't super strong but I could definitely smell it. can the fumes damage my sub? Is the fact that I can still smell it a sign I didn't mix the resin and hardener correctly? It has been cold lately so maybe it isn't curing properly? Should I be concerned?

we sell and rebuild a lot of alternators in the shop i work at and have run into this issue of alternators not exciting ("turning on") at low idle rpm's. A smaller pulley is a great inexpensive way to combat the issue and if you are worried about your serpentine belt slipping just use a shorter belt kind of a hassle but a lot cheaper than buying a new alt

If you open the image and look close you can see where the speaker mounts to the inner skin.

Here are a fer shots of the panels. Would love to modify the panel to be able to mount the woofer better but it feels like these doors would take a ton of work to make them look good and i am not quite ready to commit to that yet. Can this work without cutting the panel? I am fine with altering the inner skin to mount the drivers but just can't bring myself to cut the panel, not confident enough yet.

and now I keep getting a message that I can't attach any more pics, I've exceeded my limit. How do I delete previous pics so I can attach more? Or do I have to upload them somewhere else?

Not sure what I was thinking, but my goal was to not have to mod the panel, but I cant' imagine getting good response from a 7" driver sitting behind the stock speaker grill and panel...I' am going to have to cut to get any large driver to sound good aren't I?

Woofers will be in stock location in bottom of door. I can make the baffles to face me so those will be "on axis" if that is even a term ine uses for woofers. Tweeters will be in top of door panel next to the dash. I will post pics after work. Tweets will be aimed at each other so I am looking for something that will sound good off axis. I am trying to keep it as stock looking as possibl

Currently leaning toward Dayton audio DA175-8 or RS180-4. The DA has an aluminum cone and plays a lot higher so I thought it might be easier to find a tweeter to pair with it.

Maybe something like the Scan Speak D2606/9200? I guess I am not entirely sure what I should be looking for besides "something that fits" I wish I could just sit down and pick your brain for a while ///M5 but since I can't is there a better way to go about gathering information on active systems and raw drivers other than sifting through Google searches and spending hours reading threads on forums? Or am I just going to have to decide on something, install it and see how it sounds? Trial and error is a great way to learn but I still want to make as educated a decision as possible...at this point I just feel lost!

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/ Also, the price is right on these. Any thoughts?

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/peerless-woofers-6-7/peerless-830883-exclusive-nomex-7-woofer/ http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/hard-dome-tweeter/seas-prestige-27tafnc/g-h1397-1-aluminum-dome-tweeter/ Would these pair well together?

Or you can splurge and treat yourself to a couple of DCONS But like bassink said, the enclosure will the most important part

I noticed HUGE gains just by rotating my box 90 degrees in my trunk. Crazy how much not only box design but placement makes a difference. And the best part...tweaking box placement is FREE

Something like this? http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/seas-woofers-6-7/seas-prestige-ca18rnx-h1215-7-coated-paper-cone-woofer/ Keep in mind this is basically just point and click, check power handling and frequency response. What should I be focusing on? Any thoughts or advice?

Good to know. Thanks. I can deal with the smell so long as I cant see out of my rear view mirror