galacticmonkey

Might be getting a Chevy Avalanche at the end of the week... Planning a system for it since it will be my new daily ride. I know that I can fit 6 18s inside there, but the airspace is small. Would be around 2.8 sealed per sub, then I would polyfill the heck out of the inside of the box. That would get each sub seeing around 3.4 cubes roughly. They would be in a sideways clamshell, so that would help them load off each other. Think I could get away with this with any of the subs FI/AA makes? Maybe the SSD? Q? Chaos? Havoc?

Will do. Wish I didnt change phones. Dont have Scott's number anymore.

What I meant by talking to Scott was maybe seeing if he could build me some custom Qs or something that would work in the smaller box.

Really waiting for input from someone at Fi.

Ill talk to Scott and see what he can do for me. Im pretty sure this is the way I want to go though.

Yeah... Was checking Treo and the SSi 18 reccomended box is 2 cubes sealed. Id still rather run Fi subs though.

I know a kid who had 8 SSD 18s in 4 cubes sealed each... Thing JAMMED. Had a low note that made you want to crap your pants. Everyone and their brother runs 4 18s. Ive already ran 4 18s before. I refuse to run 4 18s. Id rather run any other size and amount of subs than 4 18s. The way I see it, 4 18s is the new 2 12s... I just think 6 18s would be awesome, and Ive never seen 6 18s in a blowthrough before. Anyway messing with the soft parts and suspensions would let them work in a smaller box? Even if they didnt handle as much power.

You should try loading loaded BTL 18s upside down, like I had to in my Expedition. I would rather punch myself in the nuts.

Well I broke down and sent a guy some money today... Ended up with 2 sets of BNIB Focal 165VR Polyglass comps.

Of these, which would you prefer? Will be running 2 sets on the front of my DLS Ultimate A5. Wont be a ton of power so it will definately need to be efficient. I would like clear sound, good midbass, and definately as loud as possible. This is the rating of my amp, and with 2 comp sets each channel will be at 2 ohms, so around 50rms per speaker. 4 ohms: 85 watts x 2 chan. + 300 watts x 1 sub chan. 2 ohms: 100 watts x 2 chan. + 500 watts x 1 sub chan. These are some of the options I was looking at. What would you pick? Speaker choices and poll us up at ca.com. http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=410377

If youre running a component set, just run it passive. They generally have the crossover points on components set where they are for a reason. Now if you put together your own DIY set, then you should go active. Besides that, I dont see why everyone is so gung ho on running active. You will most likely end up setting the crossover points very close to the ones the passive crossover has, so whats the point? Its like people who buy equipment with the intent of strapping them, like running 2 amps strapped @ 2 ohm is going to give you more power than 2 amps @ 1 ohm each.

If I were to go this route I would end up with 2 amps. I would get rid of my DLS amp and run a Clarion DPX11500 and some kind of 2/4 channel on highs and mids.

But I would build fiberglass pannels and it would be better for the pods to be sealed right?

Vent into fender? Im not looking to have any big holes drilled in the car, just looking for a relatively simple, straightfoward install.

What about using the front 2 channels on my DLS Ultimate A5 to run 2 dedicated midbasses and then buying another amp to run some components? How do dedicated midbasses do in kick pannels? I would make sure it was sealed up totally. Any experience with this?

Im looking for something very efficient because they wont be seeing much power.

Well Its just a link to one thread. Dont even vote in the poll, it doesnt matter. I just want some input. Do you think that the Type Xs or Focals are worth twice the price of the ID CTXs? I could get both both sets of IDs for the price of a single set of Alpines or Focals. Worth double the money? To keep the cost down I was thinking 2 ID CTX sets and a RE SE 12 ported. Would sound pretty clean and have decent output for a daily setup. Box would be downfiring under rear passanger seat with ports firing to the drivers side.

Thats why I came here to ask because I know some here have had alot of experience with high end component sets.

Well its not even worth my time to relink everything and make a new poll, so fuck it.

So a product got damaged in shipping and its their fault?

Psshhhhh.

What Im hoping for.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...709#post6051709 Just an update to show where I am at now, and where Ill be at soon.

Just needs 6 15s in the trunk and youre set.

An 18" sub is usually too tall to fit in a blowthrough. If you want to run alot of power, just run 4 BTL 15s. Doing that would let you run 10,000 rms no problem. Keep in mind all BTLs have the same 3" coils, and will take the same amount of power. A bigger cone doesnt mean more power handling. And if you really did the 5,000rms on each sub, it doesnt matter what your experience level is, you're going to be burning up subs if you play them for more than 30 seconds or so at full tilt. You could be a total newbie or a 25 year veteran, but 5,000 watts on a single sub is still 5,000 watts. I would really suggest doing 4 15" BTLs. Each way to power them would be something like an Audiopipe 3k, Hifonics BX2600, Orion 2500D on each sub. Pretty cheap for the power. Another option would be run 2 bigger amps, like a Memphis 4k. This is a great deal on power from a real good guy thats right here in Florida. Bonecrusher is a personal friend of mine, and these amps rock! Killer deal, Id jump on it when you have the chance. With these 2 amps, you should be fine with a big alt and 4-5 big group 31 batteries. http://www.floridaspl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4808