ImBob

Item : Sundown X-18 D2 not abused or even used much. Specs : Dual 2 ohm Price : $300 + shipping. Will ship in original box. Comfy! Mocking two puny 12's

For you guys buying and selling equipment, how do you figure rates quickly? I found a calculator online, but it was a bit confusing. And any of you have preferences between FedEx, UPS, etc? Thanks!

By coloration do you mean altering frequency response? Something else? I can do both double baffle and bracing, just wondered if it was a bit overkill.

Yeah I get that, just didn't convey it in that post. I guess I'm also coming to terms with cabin gain that I'm not used to. First system in this new truck and it's quite different than what I'm used to. 50-80hz seems really weak from the sub. May have to do it the best way and get serious midbass upfront.

I see a lot of heavy subs or multiple sub boxes being used with double baffles. Is there really any pros or cons to that vs adding some bracing inside the box? I'd think it wouldn't matter much, but I can learn something new here every day!

How much was that battery in the back? I've heard people say you need to match your 2nd battery to your main battery if running them in parallel (which I think is what you are describing with the single run of 1/0 to the back). Not sure how true or accurate the matching bit is.

I guess I'm used to my old school ways where subs were generally playing to 80 hz, and usually sealed which seems to help that upper end extension. I'm sure dedicated midbass in the doors is a better solution...but I think I may have to do fiberglass enclosure or something like that. Then more amps, processing, money...

Its not SPL as in what you will hear once placed in the car, it doesn't take into effect cabin gain, etc. It is a tool you can use though to compare theoretical performance of two different drivers or different enclosure designs. But with all audio there are about a million factors to account for, WinISD gives you a starting platform. I guess the main thing I am interested in is frequency response. I know what I'm dealing with now with my current setup in my SUV, so I have an idea of what I'd like to improve. The program just seemed off when it had similar SPL #'s on what I'd call "mid" subwoofer notes (say 40-60 hz). I don't have good midbass, so I cross the subs at 80hz. IF I get better midbass performance, I may be fine with 50 or 63hz for the subs, so the "high" subwoofer notes would matter much less. My cabin seems to cancel out notes pretty harshly from about 55hz+, so in the end, I may have to upgrade to some good midbass speakers in the doors to take over that range I'm trying to get out of the subs now. Ok I'm rambling, just trying to figure out the future direction of my system...again.

Nice! I like and can appreciate budget builds. I just got one of those VVME amps to throw on my cheap subs to replace an old A/B Cadence 600w. I like the amp so far. Definitely making more power now. It seems to have a slightly different frequency response than the Cadence. Set the gains with a DMM for about 1200w max, but honestly haven't played at that level very much. I have dimming, so I'm a bit worried. I did the big 3, but i have an old battery and may need to go with a HO alternator. Another good cheap sub suggestion is Tidal Audio. I have 2 of their 12's. They are Image Dynamics IDv2 rip offs (think I got that right). $80 a piece, they have to be one of the best bang for the buck subs. I've bought 4 over the last 3-4 years to go in different vehicles. I'll replace the two I run now when I upgrade, but I don't think I want to sell them lol. I actually wonder how they'd do for home audio...

Sorry for the noob question, but what is the advantages of the 18" frames to come later? On the X line -- nothing really; and I may leave them alone with the 6-spoke and spider adapter. The tooled 18" frame will support even larger spiders and will also be a much stronger frame (for our heavier lines). The 257mm spider on our tooled adapter on the 6-spoke is more than enough for the X woofer. Good to know. It's going to be hard for me to decide on X or Z for my next build

Mine is version 0.50a7. I wonder about it's credibility to guesstimate spl (and maybe more). I'm comparing my lil Tidal Audio 12's at 600w to the upcoming Sundown Z.4 15 on 2500w, and it shows both setups about dead even from 45hz and up. The Sundown pulls away down low, but I would guess it would dominate at mid and higher frequencies too. Maybe I entered some info wrong, but wondered if this free software was very trustworthy in the first place.

I'm basically wanting to compare frequency response curves of subs, and I'm wondering if people feel Winisd Alpha is a legit way to do that? I believe the program calls it "transfer function magnitude". The program also has a "spl" field that I also wonder about. Thanks.

Sorry for the noob question, but what is the advantages of the 18" frames to come later?

One used high quality amp that I have some experience with is the Digital Designs M1C. Seen a few for sale here and there. My friend has one, beast of an amp, and it's tiny. I just missed out on one awhile back, but haven't looked lately. I think they are rated around 1800W. My buddy runs his daily at .5 ohm and it takes it.

Jacob any rough estimates on box sizes for these? Looks like the new Z's will work with fairly small boxes, just wondering if these would be similar.