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  1. textbook

    clueless in orlando

    your input is much appreciated guys. i need to do some more thinking before i make any buys
  2. textbook

    clueless in orlando

    sure thing, i was checking out the facebook page you linked to... looks like he builds some badass boxes. id love to have something customized and sleek im also very confused by the rest of the options available for the Q12... fi's site used to have a section that explained all of the options available on their subs but since they re-did the site i haven't been able to find that page... P Chamfer High QTS Spider I Heat Ring Internal Lead i am at a loss as to whether i'd need these options or not
  3. textbook

    clueless in orlando

    sweet, appreciate the contacts 'cause i was kind of sweating the enclosure and installation. i dont trust best buy or audio zone, don't know why. now, if the brz1700 isn't four channel, would the 80-PRS put out enough power for the speakers to run optimally? and if that is the case, would it make more sense to get the BRZ1200 and run it at 1ohm? seems like overkill to get the 1700 to run it at 1200, especially if i cant capitalize on the extra wattage for my doors.
  4. textbook

    clueless in orlando

    edited my first post with my main concern
  5. textbook

    clueless in orlando

    'lo, everybody. im brand spanking new to car audio, but i'm about to take the first steps towards a new system. you'll have to excuse my ignorance i was gonna wait 'til i could post outside this section to raise some questions... but i guess i'll just ask now and hopefully won't get flamed for asking in the wrong section lol. i want to get: Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D D-Class Mono Block 1 x 600 @ 4 OHMS, 1 x 1200 @ 2 OHMS, 1 x 1700 @ 1 OHM Fi Q 12" 2x Kicker DS (or KS) 6.5 Pioneer DEH80-PRS now, what i'm not sure about is if i should get the Q dual 1 or dual 2. i'm starting to understand the concept behind what this means, but my question is, if i get it dual 2 and run my amp at 1ohm, does that mean the sub is going to get the full 1700watts? is there no way to limit that? because the sub is 1500 rated and i would also like to run power to my door speakers (if that's necessary?). i'm thinking maybe dual 1 would be better so i can run the sub at 1200w @ 2ohms and have 500 left over... is that how that works?
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