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kryptonitewhite

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Everything posted by kryptonitewhite

  1. kryptonitewhite

    Sub-30Hz tuning

    Since youre so smart, I don't see why you can't filter out my ignorance and just get my point. Start with pompous ass? I said I don't need reinforcement above 30Hz, but I do below, which is exactly why I tune the way I do. Give it a rest, I don't need to stick with anything. If you dont like what Im saying, please try to simply ignore me like Ive been trying to do you, so others who are more forgiving and understanding can continue to have fun talks. Thank you.
  2. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite's project in progress

    Yup, 4th order F3 (low) 20Hz, S of .7. 54" x 3" port is all I can recall. 6th order is series tuned and 8th is parallel? I can't remember, it's been so long.
  3. I know it's hard to do apples to apples, different ohm loads "Output Voltage and Impedance 8V/55 " different THD's "Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): 0.008%" yadda yadda...frequency range, voltage. I have been looking to switch from Alpine to Eclipse on the simple thought that Alpine is usually 4-5V where eclipse can be 8V and upwards. Help me out here guys!
  4. kryptonitewhite

    Sub-30Hz tuning

    If I wanted below 20Hz, I'd tune below 20Hz. Yes, it is an uphill battle going for 20-30 tho I didn't say listening to Meade everyday would be too loud. Listening to Steve at the frequency responce range that he has would get old. I don't like his responce curve.
  5. kryptonitewhite

    Sub-30Hz tuning

    what I'm getting at is there is a significant difference between 23Hz and 45Hz. Every time you 1/2 an octave, you must move 4 times as much air to maintain the same decibel level. I could drive around with 4 18's off 20,000 watts more than most, cuz i'm a bass head. But going from 45Hz to 23Hz, is exponentially more power and displacement. I'd RATHER 2 15's tuned low than 4 18's tuned "mid" because I love the lower lows that much more. Steve Meade is NOT too much for me in general. I'm talking preference. I'd rather 8 18's at 20Hz than 4 at 27. I want it to get louder as it gets lower, not have to use a subsonic filter to keep from unloading. I will NOT use a subsonic filter if I can help it. The lower it gets, I want it LOUDER. So sacrificing 30Hz on up. should that be 2 18's at 27? IDK...you get the point.
  6. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite's project in progress

    I'd have to say that I have a better suspension set up with my (maybe) too small sealed set up than most anyone else mounting the same drivers in the door, even with sound deadening, cause let's face it, that's not even true infinate baffle...thats about as leaky and un-solid as you can get...thats free air with crap in the way constituting as a "baffle" I think for having them crossed over 50Hz/24dB I have plenty of airspace per driver. Would i like to go a bit bigger? yes! Who has more sealed space per the same driver right now?
  7. kryptonitewhite

    Sub-30Hz tuning

    First off...whats a quicky box cost to build? 20-40 bucks? Just TRY one for fun. To learn. The more boxes you make and play with, the better at it all you get. Yes, I will benefit from cabin gain. Even then, with my low lows accentuated, I'm still not happy with my low low output, yet driven crazy with too much normal-low output Lack in the upper 50-60s? 2 15's SEALED with 2kW each is WAY too much for me. So my low tuning, not affecting 50-60Hz ( without getting too tecnical with port resonance and such) is PLENTY! And, mind you, I have 4 Extremis on a KX850.4 covering 50Hz-70Hz.
  8. kryptonitewhite

    Sub-30Hz tuning

    My point is, with just 1 "good" 15" subwoofer sealed, I have ALL the 30Hz on up I want. You? Maybe not. I'm not trying to be Steve Meade and knockin my brains out from 27-37Hz. Sure, i'd love to roll with him...but not every freakin day! I'm not talking LFE here, music CD's haven't cought up yet Even with cabin gain, I still have too much 30's up and not enough 30's down
  9. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite's project in progress

    Also, I could easily put 4 15's in there ported. If I tuned it to 30, I'd probably get about 1-2 cubes per side. That would be about 4 cubes per sub @ 30Hz. With so little airspace, being so rigid and air tight, I could get some serious numbers. I can also fit 4 18's sealed. About 4.5 cubes per sub. My favorite sub stage EVER is HexiBase's. What I'd give to have his intelligence and make a rear horn wall.
  10. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite's project in progress

    I squeezed out as much space as I could for using MDF and by doing the aiming. I had originally planed on putting the drivers in the doors, which wouldn't have been much more space. I also considered doing fiberglass which would have given some back, but I wasn't too sure on my skills for it at the time. I've only done 1 fiberglass-like enclosure, but really it was just coating it. Since the onset of starting the dash, I had a job making wind turbine blades out of resin, so I have much more experience with it now. I may use the wood enclosure now as a mold, sand it smooth and apply a releasing agent. I could have used the whole dash and made 1 large rectangle box, put in a center divider, and all the speakers would have faced strait back...much much more space...but even then, it wouldn't have been nearly enough to do 2 true Kit LCR's. (That would have been sweet, eh? Vifa in for the Usher of course) But with the power that I have, and the stuffing, it should help. I don't know the exact space the extremis share...there are so many angled sides, the top and back are seriousely angled and mis-shaped as well. As for cabin gain, yes I know it's aproximately 12dB/oct. In my case, that will be more accurate than most, because walling it already 1/2's a small cabin to begin with, the whole cabin will be made of MDF and filled in with foam, and will all be coated with several layers of different mediums. I'm even filling the doors with foam...I'll wrap the window in cardboard and seal it up, and fill the doors with the windows down, making a gap for the tracks, windows, locks, and actuators. The only "leak" I'll have will be the outside vent. I gutted out the AC box, took out all of the vents, now it's just a big whole on top of the heater that I'll seal off to the dashboard and I'll have a screw in plug. Air tight. I'll never be able to explain away, ever. I always find I'm trying to justify it. I can't! I already have that resined box 5.1cubes@21Hz. I've messed with it in home and in the car. There is a huge downfall, the port is useless starting around 30-35Hz. So if I'm playing an extremely low song full tilt, I have to be careful during 30-40Hz passages. I know if I brought it up to 25-28Hz...still "way lower than I should ever need in-car", I would eliminate that problem. My L7 box was 3.4@27Hz. It went plenty low, and handled power extremely well. But I'm not going for super loud. 2 15's sealed are plenty loud for me assuming lots of power from 30Hz and up. In fact, generally too loud, until you get below that. So I don't need 2 15's maybe 18's ported for that 30-40Hz range....I like sub 30s, and there is plenty of that information in music, contrary to what a lotta people say. I can never get enough of the lows, by lows I mean sub 30s, thats where I need my reinforcement. Thas all I can say! I don't expect to change anyones mind, just be accepted. And it's different. Who else is dumb enough to do that? lol
  11. kryptonitewhite

    4 18" BTL Build

    Thanks for the info, badass build...btw. I am looking at doing 2 15/16 outter, so 2 7/16 inner....
  12. kryptonitewhite

    rockfords 15k amp

    damn it, I have 2 of them sitting right here...I kept wondering why they said CSS on them. chit i'm dumb.
  13. kryptonitewhite

    rockfords 15k amp

    I guess youre right, if i look at an "OK" tweet like the Vifa XT25TG30, it has a freq responce of 1.5kHz-40kHz, a total of 38,500Hz range. As you go lower to mid range, mid bassm then sub bass, the range gets exponentially smaller. An "OK" mid range driver such as the Adire Audio FR125S, it is listed as 65Hz-20kHz, a range of 19935Hz. Then, the Adire Audio Extremis ( going concervative with the 3.5kHz on up issues) otherwise they say ( The inductive roll-off of this driver is up beyond 8 kHz! ) Well, I can't seem to find a bottom end. We'll say 100Hz-3.5k. A difference of 3400Hz. So now, a sub woofer. 50Hz down to 20Hz? A frequency responce range of 30Hz? YUP! makes sense! And yes, i'm thinking of putting 4 10's behind my seat just cuz I got room on top of the batteries, I wanna put some 8's in my doors cuz you got 8's and you look like you are real smart, and some kicks, and chit...i missed most of my dashboard, means the whole thing is wood...I can stick a bunch there! Maybe some in my seats, like a gamer's chair, and some in the center cosole....chit, anywhere I can! false roof too! ah, 6X9's galore!
  14. kryptonitewhite

    rockfords 15k amp

    thank you. I guess I sit corrected. I needed that!
  15. kryptonitewhite

    router circle jig and bit MDF rings

    lol alright alright
  16. kryptonitewhite

    router circle jig and bit MDF rings

    I'm thinking about getting a circle jig for my router, since my jig saw abilities seem to be getting awful rusty. I saw these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009K77D?smid=A...mp;linkCode=asn http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&WebPage_ID=3 What kind of bit do you need?
  17. kryptonitewhite

    rockfords 15k amp

    I was wondering if anyone would comment on that I like the idea of low inductance, so long as all the material I've read rang somewhat true. I've heard many comments about 1: XBL^2 drivers play clean up to 1kHz cause of low inductance and 2: A SUB woofer is made to play BELOW 50Hz...a SUB woofer isn't meant to play "high" But, I'll repeat...I have 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's running off of a Kicker KX850.4 being fed by 7 Optima Red Top batteries, crossed over with a bandpass slope of 24dB/oct from 50Hz to either 450Hz or 700Hz. So mid bass and kick drum is not a problem for me. Oh, sealed BTW. But I like to sometimes run my SUBs 50Hz down, and sometimes, i like to give them all the way up to 200Hz. So inductance, the largest determining factor in pounding crisp highs, I love LOW inductance drivers? idk
  18. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite's project in progress

    I guess this should be in "builds" I was too anxious to hurry up and get these pics up quick I wouldnt be offended if admin moved it
  19. kryptonitewhite

    router circle jig and bit MDF rings

    what are you guys making them out of
  20. kryptonitewhite

    rockfords 15k amp

    Kicker uses the long coil approach, right? I love my squares BTW, and I've owned 2 Avalanches, so i'm not overly biased. But really, the L7 has 16mm Xmax, and I don't wanna know what the inductance was (I love to change my crossover to 200Hz once in a while just to show morons that larger subs arent slower and sloppier than smaller) VS a short ass coil with 27mm. I know you only meant the Kicker, just seems weird Ive never even heard of them and theyre out already! then again $10,000 vs $20,000....I understand why
  21. kryptonitewhite

    rockfords 15k amp

    off topic: I love Xmax and inductance...I can't see how XBL is over rated?? You know someone with one in their hands already? How long that amp been out? Steve has the only private owned T15k to his knowledge, and thats been quite a while.... er Chicken....
  22. kryptonitewhite

    rockfords 15k amp

    I'm a Kicker fan anyway....sweet, i had no idea. Now if Kicker would just implement XBL^2. Then they coukld donate 2 warhourses and 2 SOLOXBL^2 18's to me, 6 cubes@20Hz each! this is a bit over done...lotta hype, little filling, but here's my first look at it: http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoID=21554680
  23. kryptonitewhite

    4 18" BTL Build

    Will you fill me in on your router experience using the circle jig? Thanks!
  24. kryptonitewhite

    just a buncha pics

    Oh and local shops and best buy and all that. No brick and mortar for me. (sorry all you shop guys ) I hate talkin audio to people around here, all they know is old school stuff or stuff thats in the local shops...the big names. I say "Adire/RE Audio" and their like "HUH?"
  25. kryptonitewhite

    just a buncha pics

    you learn as you go, some places just have better service than others. I have nothing but the best of luck with Kicker and Bob at Creative Sound Solutions, where I've learned to avoid Lanzar (Quality Car Audio parent company, owning Pyramid, Pyle, and others too), AA, and obviousely Audiobahn back in my less educated days. I'm fortunate to have what I have, most of it I didn't earn myself. But the most expensive stuff is yet to come, and I've been working again so....I feel better about it.
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