kryptonitewhite

I'm running my amp with an LOC and my factory HU... makes things tricky... I have a DMM but i've heard it's not very effective? Minimum of a clamp meter??

so a PPI flat piston driver with the exact same diameter as a super-curved cone would have less Sd?

The ohm load has nothing to do with it. It's the amount of power you sent to it. You probably got a little happy with the volume knob, ended up clipping the signal, and poof! Too much power burnt it up. You will need a recone. Did the cone crumble??? Take some pictures if you have a camera available. I'd like to see this. see now that totally makes sense to me... clipped.... but 95Honda has that beautiful write up disproving clipping=failure, only too much power

I ordered a recone before Friday the 13th, may have been monday the 9th. I received a UPS tracking # on the 17th. It stated " Scheduled Delivery: 20-March-2009 " Still does. it's been 2 weeks. ugh.... I jus gotta b patient... still says " Billing information has been sent to UPS. Check site later for updated shipment status or contact shipper for more details. "

looks like the mounting flange's get larger as the driver size does? What is the thickness on the 22"?

please make vids this should be interesting

man it was good to re-read that, it's been years. Thanks honda! Boy, I'm worried all over again... I guess when I get me recone I will know....

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Adire/brahma12.13.wmv

I saw a thread somewhere a few weeks back of a dude that had a bracket built for him and he used a stock alt from a different vehicle... so he had his stock hooked up plus another stock from a different make/model also. I think this is what I am going to do if someone knowledgeable can make a thread on it. I'd just get a used one from a junker that did 120A or more. If it goes bad, chit, but another one and drop it in for cheap. I would guess my stock 120A and another 120A would do the same as a HO 240?? IDK....

haha nothing more embarrassing than a good ol girl scream from a grown man hahaha I never had much of a prob with spiders till last summer a lil tiny pucker with red eyes was staring me in my eyes when I woke up. I sat up and I startled it, it jumped out from the wall and swung back in on its string of silk.... it was watching me sleep. I am scared to death of the tiny creatures now

http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/profile....42&ref=name

there's a lot of confusion over it, cuz they are advertised 1 ohm but I heard it was an error Maxima over on SMD had issues, something about it has to be 2 ohm, be it bridged or by 2... IDK theres a cpl threads over there about it I've heard nothing but good on them tho

add me! http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea...endid=456712721 and sell my boy that amp

thats freakin hillarious... that lil guy wanted OUT on that ludi joint!

I believe it's 2x1500 rms @ 1 ohm, 3000x1 @ 2 ohm, 950X2 @ 2ohm, 1800x1 @ 5 and 2x600 @ 4 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...amp;hl=ap30001d gut pics too

I'm a bonehead, I'm 1st to admit it... but I'll continue anyway... I had 3 red tops and 1000 watts @ 2 ohms from my amp, I had dimming. I did the big 3 and it may have helped a little, but didn't fix it. I added 3 more batts, problem solved. I'll then was 1700 @ 2 ohms and not much changed, still no more dimming. I have a 120A alt though which certainly helps more than 80... but I know I need to get a 2nd alt and/or HO alt too... but all I'm saying is more storage does help. This will bring the "more batteries is more drain" argument, but ya... 2 drycells would be sweeet and Big 3

how about adding your own power as well? strait posative and negative wire-to-deck, leaving the ignition wire for now and see if that kills it

how much email me [email protected] I almost got one but then I got a dual 2 recone kit, so i got BXi2608D minstead, but a buddy wants one for a pair of MOFO 15's I already passed on my deal to him and he says he can't afford it... maybe you can do better...

big 3 and couple new gooder batts.... may as well keep the cap, but it won't do much do you run the system a lot with the car off? no sense paying the extra $$ and doin xtra work if not... I find if youre gonna drain 1 or all batteries, it or they all have to be recharged anyway... so if you use %20 of one battery vs 10% of 2 batteries, you still gotta recharge what you used up... and if you're not fully discharging by playing for hours at a time with the system off, all batts should be fine

X2 BTW I swore I would NEVER ever use an LOC, but I'm running my factory HU.... and I love the tweets!

this thread RULZ! I want to catch a fly. I've secretly always wanted to do a subsonic blast to a cat in the port...

ah the recone guy... wish Brian would have heard me crying before I ordered the woofer to begin with .. Thanks again Brian

looks like i been in the wrong 4ums lately

yesterday out of the blue my car door started popping while I open it, not as bad when i shut it. in front the body seam is right up against the door seam, so the door is sitting forward... pushed/bent toward the front of the car. The rear seam is now a big gap. I checked the hinges, they dont look bent or like they have any play. top hinge bottom hinge sorry this camera blows I tried lifting the end of the door, there is no play, and visually the black rubber/plastic bushings look OK... bolts tight....

I compared it to the other side to see if there was a gap between the hinge and where it mounts, but both sides look the same, and when I open both doors all the way, they seem to go the same