kryptonitewhite

ah, this just gets deeper and deeper

Anyone own any of these? Can I get 4 bandpassed outputs with it? I need 3 -way active... 2 outs for tweets HP, 2 outs for 4" BP, and 2 outs for 6.5" BP.... most crossovers only have 2 HP, 2BP, 2LP.... but I need FOUR bandpassed. Anyone selling any? Crutchfield says discontinued! http://www.crutchfield.com/S-A2KFWiqFKq0/p_500PXAH701/Alpine-PXA-H701.html]Alpine PXA-H701 Multichannel audio processor at Crutchfield.com Thanks!

sounds good! so here's the list I have of Alpine compatible HUs: CDA-9887 looks simple, plain, solid. cheap...$270 The W200 looks awesome, plays DVD's? About $400 on ebay. I've been trying so hard to keep from going surround... just too much work as it is stereo 4way active, and, I'll have remote turn on wire toggle switches so I can turn the tweets/4's/6.5's/21's off and on separately... amping is easy if I stick to what i got...but 5.1 would be SICK! W205 I like the A/V in and out, I'll need a rearview cam for the wall, I want easy RCA input so I can hook up a laptop, hell a guitar if I want, about anything. Almost $600 ebay... more processing and amplification? D105 DiviX!!!! I just started downloading movies again, I need to get Hulk, WOTWs, Pods? The super low stuff! Not even on ebay LOL ACC? D106 crutchfield doesn't say discontinued! $900! Not much info on it. $700 ebay. ACC files?

thank you all for the great input! lots of good info. your deck eliminates the need for the controller, correct? and you may look to get rid of the HU and crossover? [email protected] !

My enclosure is 21 cubic feet after sub/port displacement, tuned to 15.42Hz. The port is a 7.75" sonotube 19.5" long, leaving 8.25" port clearance at the back. external 42" wide = 40.5" wide internally front 38 tall, rear 32 tall = 36.5" + 30.5"= 33.5" average height bottom depth 30.5" top 28" = 29 + 26.5 = 27.75" average depth 40.5 x 33.5 x 27.75 = 21.788 cubs before sub/port displacement 7.75" x 19.5" = .532 cubes port displacement + .22 sub displacement = .752 total disp WinISD with 21 cubes with 7.75 x 19.5 says 15.42Hz tune, and I round under, so close to 15Hz. So here is my problem. Bass I Love You has a 16Hz tone. I had more excursion at the 16Hz tone than I did on the 30Hz and 25Hz tones. Please excuse the very poor quality of this video, turn your speakers down! http://www.youtube.com/user/kryptonitewhite#p/u/31/zD9FU-SZLOY also note, very little port velocity. that 2 liter bottle barrely moves, and not much air blew through without the bottle in it either. Now here is sub_junkie's vid. He is 7.6 cubic feet tuned to 15Hz as well. IDK where his SSF is set to, but mine was at 15Hz. You can turn it back up for his vid. http://s536.photobucket.com/albums/ff323/airsoftsniperm4/?action=view&current=UTGM324Gen3forSale005-1.flv his excursion is just the opposite: more excursion on the 25Hz and 30Hz, very little on the 16Hz, as it should be, correct? Here is another video of mine with a much better camera just to get a better view and listen of things. Please bear with me, it's a rap song, but the bottom note on this track is 26Hz I believe. Willie The Kid : Love For Money http://www.youtube.com/user/kryptonitewhite#p/u/18/3jzenFwzkZk same song, different vid http://www.youtube.com/user/kryptonitewhite#p/u/17/yGWsO36WPtc PLEASE HELP! THANK YOU!

We shopped for a Buick Rendezvous or Pontiac Aztac so we could get >18 cubes and still have room for kids, grocieries and such and avoid getting a minivan. Explorers, Blasers, Bravadas, and the like we'ren't nearly enough. Basically we are walling the hatchback. >20 cubes, 8" port. This is temporary until a 21" or 22" driver of similar specs is finished. ( >30mm Xmax, <20Hz Fs) I originally designed it to have the sub on top and port on bottom, but once the 22" is in, side by side works better.

A while back I ordered a custom recone kit going from a single 2 to a dual 2 coil, and I was wondering if there would be any noteable increase in power handling, Mms, and efficiency as well as a lowering in Fs since there will be double the coil... but I think i was mostly told not enough to be note worthy. Later on I painted the cone, and suddenly I was being told I would totally mess up the drivers SQ and SPL by adding mass and making the cone stiffer (obviousely mostly by noobs and tards) Anyway, Exodus Audio's GEN II Maelstrom-X came out. Basically the only change was going from a single 4 to a dual 2 coil. The added coil length was enough that they changed the power rating and Bl rating. http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/exodus-audio/19584-maelstrom-18-gen-ii-landed.html

according to most people, CD content very seldom has sub 30Hz information, be it intended or not. If it's not there to begin with, the SSF setting won't matter much. how does the Warden bottom, soft or hard? If he tore a tinsel lead then sure... but if the coil smacks the top plate, I'd have to think he knew. WHACK!

So I asked around on a few forums about my custom dual 2. Since I am adding a second coil, going from a single 2 layer to a dual 4 layer, I am adding mass and adding double the wire for current. I now have double the windings in the gap. So I asked if my Fs would drop a tad from added mass, efficiency would go up a touch from having double the windings, and if power handling would go up a tad as well as now I have 2 wires sharing the power, thus 1/2 the power going through each wire. I was basically told NO. Now I put some paint on a cone, and all you experts are like "DUDE you changed your thiele small parameters!" Are you guys freakin kidding me? And you all spend so much time trying to sound so convincing and take the time to tell me what it did and why... and it's all a big joke. But adding double the copper, halving the power/current going through each coil, more glue to hold the 2nd coil to the 1st one, doubling the number of tinsel leads and the glue to hold them, a second anti-tinsel slap pad, the glue to hold that as well..... none of that mattered. But now this super heavy super stiffening paint? And inverting a dustcap cuz an employee said not to. Seriousely? We tested the driver and it doesnt dissrupt any airflow so far, and it isn't coming off...it was quite secure before all the paint, and the paint can only help strengthen the bond already present holding this inverted dust cap to the cone. Give me a break people.

looks the same cured

IB3 18 dual 2 inverted dustcap painted gloss black may add "Fi" in gold metal flake later

since I've been frequenting this forum more, I have noticed there is a significant number of issues with the Q line. I'm guessing just coincidence? Or is there a ryme or reason?

He doesn't and there are all sorts of things wrong with what he is proposing to do. I don't like the slopes, the frequencies, the lack of underlap, and they don't fit well with the driver choice. Somewhere along the line he has been misinformed by someone on how this works. shows what you know In home baffle crossover wouldn't look anything at all like in car and assuming it would be similar is amusing. alright, I took it defensively the first time... sorry I'm not going for SQ, I am just using good drivers good amps and more than I need to keep things linear. 4 Extremis 6.4's where 2 would be plenty to keep driver excursion low, rather than worrying about 2 drivers playing the same thing not on the same axis causing..... ya Ill jus shut up you hit it on the head.... 1st off, thats very beginning pics... not even close to having the skeliton done. 2nd, even after all that was completed, the enclosure became a mould... I was going to sand the bondo down smooth, apply a release agent, and resin it.... pull the fiberglass box off... had 5 gallons spectrum sludge, and 5 gallons firewall to go yet too 3rd it was a $200 car, $3500 in equipment, and $2000 in mechanical/electrical upgrades, MDF, bondo, foam, etc It never came close to finish, due to engine problems later. I was expecting a decent noob SQ score... only competing to learn what to do, cuz I have no idea. I aimed and staged the front stage the best I could from internet research. I also hopped with the 2 AA Avalanches in 6 cubes each at 20Hz would do decent with the false floor, doors, roof, dash... all MDF, coated with bondo, then coated with deadener... and filled on the inside with foam... ridgid, vibration free, air tight. I took out the whole AC/heating system so that only 1 hole to the outside for air, pluggable by an MDF board for SPL burps. Took up as much cabin area as possible and reinforced. My 1st and only "dedicated" build. EDIT: DIDN'T MEAN 2 HIJACK, ENUFF ABOUT THAT... still watchin your build, just remenicing of dreams long lost LOL

yes, I based it off the Kit LCRs from Adire Audio, figured that would be the best place to start, though thats home theater... but mostly same drivers Thats a lot of why Id ecided to go with something fully adjustable rather than 2 AC 6XS's.... so i can tweak it I suppose it's a starting point. Just remember how terrible the automobile is for a stereo. The acoustics are terrible in comparison to a HT. well, I'm not going for SQ comp... I just choose drivers that are SQ oriented, use more than I need, with much more power than needed... so I can drive it to the volume I want, with the drivers being capeable of more output than I need so that they aren't pushed to their limits, and the amps never clip and never strain... abundance (sp?) of power, and drivers... in large enclosures for a flat responce. Pretty much what I just posted in the other thread, I want to be loud and still be clear and distortion free. Imagining, staging... I was attempting that for the 1st (and probably last) time with this vehicle: now i'll probably just drop these pretty good drivers in the stock factory locations with the nice amps with more power than I need and set them low so theyre clean and stress free all day long and call it good.... nothing like what youre goin for

Don't construe that SQ means "as good as possible", both are subjective and usually when described that way the person doing the describing is really asking for output. Perhaps output that doesn't sound like chit, but output nonetheless. gotcha. I guess my approach, very different than everyone elses, is lots of drivers that are already flatter than the average to begin with, an abundance (sp?) of power so clipping doesn't make things any worse, and large enclosures for the flattest responce possible. More drivers and more power than needed to keep things linear. I know Im no SQ guy, and no SPL guy. Loud. Clear. As "distortion" free as possible even at high volume.

hmmmm.... makes me wonder why there's even a Q line then Because some people are actually into acoustic reproduction and not just on being loud. There is a market for SQ woofers or ones that are a compromise between SQ and SPL; however, it is a friggin' shame that 80% who think they should buy a Q are for reasons that they think they want SQ but loud. The number of Q vs BL questions is ridiculous and 99.9999% of the time the person really, really, really should buy the BL as they have NO interest in an SQ setup they just don't understand what that means. what if a person isn't into "PURE" SQ, just wants it to sound as good as possible ( AND be loud too) to an experienced, yet not advanced audio enthusiest? Can an enthusiest (I dont know how to spell the word, I could google it, but I dont feel it's necessary and worth the time to inturrupt my train of thought here) that would be perfectly happy with 1 15" BL instead get 2 18" Q's so that they have the capeability to get louder than the single 15" BL yet have much more headroom so their inexperience doesn't break the pair trying to get the same level of output, thus getting better SQ and having less risk involved?

because they are very nice woofers when played inside of their limits. i love how my Q 18 sounds tuned at 30hz. but from comments made above and in similar recent posts, the "Q" is ONLY for those who do "SQ" setups that do "real" SQ not "oops, I should have got a BL" setups that 10" drivers are even too mkuch for, let alone a 12, or even a 15.... but AN 18!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For different applications, and of course more money for Scott as in "non real SQ" setups that still get loud, get low, AND sound "good"? makes me wonder why there is a 12", 15", and especially an 18" Q then I never said a 10" was the best choice for all SQ installs, just that it would have enough output to be able to blend nicely and work. Depending on the application there are multitudes of reasons to using other sizes of woofers, but it isn't to "keep up". ah, gotcha

yes, I based it off the Kit LCRs from Adire Audio, figured that would be the best place to start, though thats home theater... but mostly same drivers Thats a lot of why Id ecided to go with something fully adjustable rather than 2 AC 6XS's.... so i can tweak it He doesn't and there are all sorts of things wrong with what he is proposing to do. I don't like the slopes, the frequencies, the lack of underlap, and they don't fit well with the driver choice. Somewhere along the line he has been misinformed by someone on how this works. shows what you know

hope that wasnt geared to me, cuz not only do i not know of any special prises being given out for post whoring on this particular forum, but I haven't got much love around here anyway to begin with so i got nothin to prove to anyone around here by having a high post count, whatever that would mean

The basket was rediculous (sp) Didn't it have a 2.5" Xmax?

makes me wonder why there is a 12", 15", and especially an 18" Q then

I have an SQ wall, and I'll never hear the end of how wrong I am

holt chit! though it won't be no SQ woofer, the damn thing will move a chit TON of air!

hmmmm.... makes me wonder why there's even a Q line then

very well put however, good luck with anyone on forums agreeing with you... other than myself