kryptonitewhite

here is my old dashboard top..front stage..to my Hyundai Accent GT now keeping that in mind, imagine similar up here hanging down!

Did what? Built a box that can't do anymore than one that wouldn't take up the whole room? stop posting in my thread The problem is the way you wrote this someone could read it that doesn't know any better and think it is a good idea, so it needs to be clarified for my goal how is it not a good idea? not only is there more than 1 way to skin a cat (be there "better" or "more efficient" ways or not) but my goal is not the normal flat responce either, though my plots are flatter than most other plots I have seen. just because I did it different, the way I wanted to do it, I spent the same or less than your idea probably would have to acheive the same... MY results. I know youre a smart guy, and I know you hold a high position here. Ive watched you over the years. But I am flat out telling you that you are wrong stating my idea is not good. just because you do not get it, can't justify it, doesn't make you right and me wrong. your obsessiuon with the space taken up is all you. i do not care about space. just because any others out there might not want to take up this amount of space either doesnt mean my idea is bad... just like if I were rich and if I could afford 4 TCSounds or 4 Maelstrom-X and 8 PRs and several EP4000s and a dedicated circuit breaker panel for my HT to get a similar responce...blah... it's pointless, you really are so good at what you do that youve let it go to your head and now you can't think outside the box. yes, I could have gone with 8 drivers IB and EQed the crap out of them, but that would have taken more power from my amps, therefore upgraded electrical for my home..more than I already need. But 8 drivers and EQ equipment would also have surpassed my wood expenses. youve stated your opinion more than once. if you want to make 1 single statement and say " attention users seeking ideas and advice, this particular install/alignment is not for everyone. though this project does what the user wants it to do, and for the cheapest price available, that does not mean you should do it this way". You could even go as far as to say "if you also want an exaggerated 10Hz-20Hz range, but you want less 20Hz on up, you will need heavy EQing and lots of Vd...volume displacement... to get there, even in an IB or large sealed enclosure. so please. youve made your point. please stop. thank you.

so I figured why not leave the ports at 48", the way i got them, and stick them out 12" for a 12" clearance from the rear wall for a 6.5Hz tune for fun... then cut them down to 16" for a 10Hz tune to see what that was like..then land on my final cut, 5", a little under 14Hz tune to keep from any dip in FR...and I get that AWESOME peak from 12Hz-20Hz... PERFECT! Well I cut her down, I'm re-watching WOTWs... and it is cherry. The platform resembling bleechers can't hurt either...8'x'8 square soaking it all up and wobbling!

Did what? Built a box that can't do anymore than one that wouldn't take up the whole room? stop posting in my thread

the white trash redneck did it again.. the plan all along was a 14Hz tune, as 13Hz starts a slight dip and the dip just gets bigger as I tune lower. So WinISD plots at 14Hz are exactly what I want... flat flat flat till 15-16Hz starts to show the beginning of a HUGE spike at 14Hz. I'll snap a pic of the plots later..but anyway I retuned to my final 14Hz and played a 15Hz sine wave for a full minute at full excursion and didnt even get warm. jordan powell kryptonitewhite

FYI, if you are running optical or digital coaxial you will only get 5.1 at max, the newer 7.1 formats are only sent via HDMI digitally or already decoded via 7.1 analog output if your player has this output. But you are correct not all blu-rays are 7.1 Impressive build so far, more impressive is your lady helping. thanks for the props big hitter! I'm runnin HDMI off a 7.1 sound card I just got and I had 4 ladies help :D

first vid 11Hz sine wave at a pretty moderate level, shakes the whole house and rattles windows in the opposite end of the house a little louder than the old box used to...but the old box did it at 18Hz, this is 11! So then I do it again, but part way in I turn it up to at least 2.5" p-p maybe even 3"... they still have room to go... but my clip indicators are solid... no clipping... I was barely even pushing the amps... and the subs had zero complaints!

i know resonating panels... most likely i wont even know it

had a rust spot i knocked out today for a dollar. paint dont even match but i dont care its better than rust

Now that I have the 7.1/5.1 figured out.. I thought HD was always discrete 7.1... owell moving along... problem 2 is clipping. for movies, as expected, I have WAY too much power @ 40hms...which is why I ordered dual 4's... so I'll *only* have 3X the power I need at 8 ohms. But right now, with movies, the sub still has too much excursion with the gain only on 14... but for music I have to turn it up to 26 to get resonable output. At 26 the sub wants more, has plenty of room...but the amp starts clipping a touch above that. 2 more clicks and it clips HARD on higher frequencies but not lower. So is my electrical bad? I have RCA to XLR. I have the receiver sub maxed at +12.5dB. So anyway, I no longer have my helper ( NOT my wife, NOT my girlfriend...a really nice gal..that is a friend of mine..I am just as unconventional in every other aspect of my life I don't have girlfriends or wives ) Now I know many people are gonna say "how about port support!" but I am not sticking with a 6.5Hz tune! Read the entire thread before posting! I need a 5" long port with a 12" sonotube in 125 cubic feet for a 15Hz tune! 5" port length! 10Hz I think was 17"... I am leaving 5" of overhang on the outside so that I have 2 free ends... 11.25" will be just fine...but I know I will hear just as much over that as I have over my bracing. and NO I am NOT bracing anymore than those 2 little 2x4's making that X... thanks for the ideas, thanks for the suggestions, but you can say I told you so after the box explodes. um... didnt mean to upload these but may as well post... I overcaulk initially, always...owell... then after it cures I usually go back and put a 2nd layer in the corners and smear for extra support and air tight seal...then a 3rd. Only 1 extra layer this time...it will make it easier to finish pulling them apart after they implode due to lack of bracing. also keep in mind, these 12" ports may be taken out and increased to 14" 16" or even 18" if they can't fully support 22's

alright guys... I thought HD was all discrete 7.1 it is not. checked my movies, they are 5.1

2 problems 1 at a time: I have a 7.1 receiver, I run an HDMI from my Blu-Rey to the rceiver, but I only get 5.1. The rear speakers do not light up on the little map on the display, even when DTS is detected or True HD...nor is there any sound ever from the 2 rears

glad to have you hawk! had 2 create a new photobucket account! sometimes some show sometimes bandwidth error

This is only going to cause more debate and more argument, but I'll try to explain my OPINION anyway. 1st problem: I am 99% concerned with 20Hz on DOWN only! But that statement will go nowhere with many. So for one plot I put a LOW PASS filter on the IB because I want more output from 10-20Hz and little output in comparison from 20Hz on up. 8 18's would be WAY overkill from 20Hz on up, but comparable to 20Hz on down with just 2 in my enclosures.I plotted to get as close to Xmax without exceeding as I could using SSF/HP filters on the vented boxes, and no filter on the IB allowing it to not exceed Xmax till 7Hz allowing electronics rolloff to take care of it real-world. RED 125 cubs 13Hz HP 13Hz 1500 watts GREEN 125 cubes 10Hz HP 10Hz 1100 watts PINK 1111 cu ft sealed (IB) no HP, 1 pic with LP 10Hz 2700 watts (Fi rated them 550 watts to 20Hz, appeared correct, but I must be good to at least 10Hz) One of the best pics doesnt always show up...bandwidth exceeded:

The PXA-H701 came a cpl days ago Alpine IVA-W505 dvd player on it's way I have 1 Fi IB3 18, 6 more on the way... 4 for the VAN, 2 for the HT until the 22's come out, and a spair Going to get dual AD244 alts and maybe a modulator for them Going to get 4 of those batteries pictured above Need to get some 12 gauge power wire Going to order 4 AP30001D's when they are back in stock I have a pair ( 3... a spair) Vifa XT25TG30 1" Ring Radiators to be run with the Kicker KX200.2 2 CSS FR125S full range 4.5's to be run bridged 8 ohms off the KX350.4 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's off a KX850.4

Anyone want to guess what that other cut out line is for?

1 complete less a port brace... and onto #2...