kryptonitewhite

the van was bought specifically for the stereo only I know but I just can't imagine doing all that and destroying the resale value. I sell cars for a living so I may be biased. I have no intentions of reselling it certainly not without the stereo in it, and I can't see getting my money back out of it either way so i hope this turns out well

And you posting that wasn't? He's building what he wants in his van. Notice a pattern there. Keep up with the build man. I like seeing people do things differently, even if it goes against the grain. with posts like that, thats what keeps me going. Thank you. I'll have a vid of the DVD player up in a lil bit, and a snap of the new hydro crimper and 4th sub amp

the van was bought specifically for the stereo only

on this alpine deck I have 2 long yellow wires o the harness, yellow blue for parking break and yellow black for foot break. I am assuming these are to ensure youre not driving and playing video at the same time?

it's been a while since I've been challenged on my "infinite baffle woofer" usage, but someone is... forceful again, so i thought my reply is a good one for all the IB3 VAN builds I have already proved the IB3 18 works great in an enclosure. I have been running mine in one for the last year. Over a year ago I ran it in an Aztek, 21.5 cubic feet, 7.5" port, 15Hz tune. I then retuned to 20Hz, 25Hz, and 33Hz to experiment, then back to 15. I first ran it with a Lanzar OPTI2000D. That wasn't enough power for this ""IB"" sub. Then I got a Hifonics BXi2608D. It still wasn't enough at 2 ohms, so I ordered a custom dual 2 recone kit to run it at 1 ohm. Then I brought the box in my home. It worked great in-car and in-home. In the house I first ran it off 2 cheap walmart plate amps. Considering the power it was most impressive. Then I ran it off a Behringer EP4000. Since I was right, I bought 6 more of them, and I am now running 2 of them in 128 cubic feet each, with an EP4000 each. The VAN build is the same thing... 22 cubic feet, 15Hz tune...just more port area. This is a video in the Aztek off a Lanzar OPTI2000D. It was loud, it was clear, it was low, responce was smooth, flat, and wide. It played very high as well. I hope you have a good stereo on your PC. I just watched this vid and it made my computer and monitor BOUNCE in the next room. Anyone who wants to politely ask my opinion, fine, but beware about being cocky. This video right here was made with a cheap 60 watt amp from walmart. I'd like to see any other subwoofer do a lot better than this one did off 60 watts..period. The camera used in the last vid and this vid was terrible, all noise is distorted..even quiet... so this is exaggerated a bit. But for 60 watts, this "infinite baffle" subwoofer shakes the entire house. Now the thing that I loved about the walmart amps, was they played single digit subsonics that my EP4000s can not. This video was made to show the guys on Home Theater Shack that I indeed did get a lot of port velocity on a 7.5" port with an IB 18 with less than 200 watts. This used to shake my house with the 1 sub, but with my new amps it's almost not even present. EP's are known for a steep roll off below 20Hz. gotta love WOTWs. while in a huge box tuned low to get subsonics, it still hit hard, kicked hard, slammed hard for the punch my favorite part of the whole movie. if you dont have a huge system hooked to your PC youre not gonna get this...it is far too low and you have to move a LOT of air. a song with sub 20Hz material and thumping at the same time? got the EP4000's, my old sub was dual 2, the new ones are dual 4, so I wanted to blow my old sub to recone it as a dual 4 so I have a replacement. this is a 17Hz sine wave... a lot of power AT TUNING. with an infinite baffle speaker. hmmm. blowing wind across the room. 10Hz on a 17Hz tune... unloading still shakin my house and blowing air full excursion. listen to the EP4000 fan kickin it in high gear at the end when I stop the sine wave. Built the Two Towers.... distorts the crap out of the new camera, 780i HD These were with a 6.5Hz tune! 128 cubic feet per box, 12" diameter port, 48" long ever made two 200lb boxes rock back and forth and fan blads bounce froma 6Hz sine wave? retuned to 15Hz... FULL EXCURSION sine wave for a full minute, didnt even get the sub warm. did it again, with my back door shut. It is on the other side of the house...and it was moving so far i could see light through it from outside. I rest my case thanks

my neighbor buddy, i made him cut the holes on the last baffle board..they dont much matter anyway theyre way in back..but he did pretty good

Basically they are nothing like the Adire LCR's actually. Baffle width, orientation, spacing, and crossovers along with the drivers would all have to be the same for it to be basically Adire LCR's. Cosmetically the baffle looks nice. ///M5, did I just get a compliment from you?

I'm still trying to find out how much chrom spray paint it's gonna take

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ya, I had to do that.. I was having a slight comb filter issue and the staging was off a touch on that side cuz the glove box has a different reflection than the steering wheel, so I had to fiz the imaging... uh.. ya... damn it, now I gotts rebuild from scratch! That roof panel wont work, need a new start, which means the walls gotta come outk, and the wall frame....

basically they are Adire Audio Kit LCRs using the Vifa to replace the Usher 2 Vifa XT25TG30 1" Ring Radiator tweeters being run off a Kicker KX200.2 These will be high passed MUCH higher than they should be. They are solid down to 1.5k, 3k would be an excellent crossing, but I'm going to go super high... maybe as high as 12-14kHz... I won't know till i play. I hate the 2nd highest treble tweeters reproduce. I love the extreme highs. 2 CSS FR125S 4.5" full range drivers. These drivers were made for audiophiles that are so peculiar that they are willing to sacrifice the extreme highs and extreme lows to avoid a crossover and all the SQ lost with them. They have a copper sleeve and XBL^2 tech to get them to go as high and as low as possible, low inductance..yadda yadda yadda. They can be played up to 20kHz just fine. I should cross them close to my Vifa's range, but I'm purposely making a hole in my sound floor where the lower treble range will be attenuated. But hey, between the FR125S and the XT25TG30's, I'll still have more treble I'll ever need... just not so harsh and raspy. These will be bandpassed from 700Hz to wherever I end up staring the hole. Kicker KX350.4 bridged, as these are HT 8ohm speakers. 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's. XBL2. These 4 woofers are good down to 33Hz when vented. I'll cross them somewhere around 50-80Hz, I will take lots of play time to optimize them. My subs play quite high, they sound good crossed at 80Hz in my HT, but a main focus of mine is DMX going "uh! uh-huh!" or JaRule, Ludacris... deep voices. Pac. I went with 4 of these when 2 would be overkill in their mounting location as it is, cuz I want the high/tight/thump/kick to be crisp and clear. I want bass guitars, drums, men's voices... to be strong and effortless, not strained and breaking up. I could run 4 12" subwoofers with a Kicker KX850.4 it was benched 1000 RMS. It's running these bad boys. Bandpassed 60Hz-700Hz. The Fi IB3 18's in 86 cubic feet with a 22" port tuned to 15Hz LPed at 80Hz. 4 AP30001D's. Alpine IVA-W505 DVD player to watch WOTW's, HULK, Star Trek, Transformers... you name it..so I don't have to listen to the same 20-30 songs all day with sub-20Hz content. I need an excellent crossover to do 4-way active, 2 channels bandpassed. I chose the Alpine PXA-H701.

thank you very much! In person, its shoddy... but glad the camera takes gooder pics haha

ya'll know how much i HATE do do stuff for cosmetics...but i couldn't help myself. I wanted to add a spacer for more rear clearance for the pole vents as well as a thicker baffle for better screw grabbin. Then I couldn't help but trace it out. Then I couldn't help but break out the 'ol router. BUT I made DAMN sure to at least do a ****** job!

the imagination can be a fun place

4-5 years ago when i was workin on my accent build with the front stage going 4-way active, I came up with the idea of 4 toggle switches.. HP-BP-BP-LP. So I can kill any range I want and have on any range I want... mainly for showin off the system and teaching people...cuz Ive always got people walkin up on my wanting to learn.. and I can demonstrate "this is what the tweeters do" and kill the rest. "this is just tweets and subs".. and so on. So I got my Iraggi today, scooped up 4 toggles and another DMM as my X biatch snatch gots all my old stereo, tools, everything.... gotta show off my 12" port and my lights too... gonna do the same in the VAN... red and blue lights. Someday I'll scoop up a little amp and do bass on 1 channel and treble on the other, have blue lights hooked to bass and red to trebble, so the blues are long and continuous and reds flashin and blinkin rapid like.

I've always had love for Kicker. Over the years, every time I need something... they just ask my address and send it. "what's the charge?" "oh it's already sent. thanks for Livin Loud!" Well I got my amps back yesterday in record time, and included was 1 or 2 sets of remote gain control with the cable(s). I thought I saw 2 but today I pulled them back out to snap pics and there's one. Either way I won't be using them so someone locally that needs one will scoop it up sometime. I just love Kicker, always have. I love when my woman helps it's cool when we can play flirt and tease while doing installs. even better when I can put her to work I wasn't satisfied with the bracing, so I decided to connect the top brace with the bottom two..I'll have to shave out a lot on both of them for the speaker cutouts, but with them being sandwiched from both sides, should still be well worth it. That 22" port just eats up the whole wall.

there will be lots of vids the minute shes done!

cool thanks! whats up man! where are you at??? Straight north in Watertown! my kid and her mom lived up there for a while... Dashboard sometimes has 1 or 2 comps a summer here... if I get this done before one you should come check the show whats up man! where are you at??? Straight north in Watertown! sweet man I'm an hour away from watertown. I'd definitely love to make a trip to talk shop with ya! Love the build so far!! where you at? heck yess... I hate dashboard but I got a buddy that worked there for a while and he opened his own shop in Luverne MN.. once this build is done I'm gonna pop in on him and find out what i gotta learn to compete. Just for fun, see what I can get. Sorry I have taken so long to reply. havent been at my desk in a couple days. Anyhow, I'm in Montevideo about an hour straight east of you on highway 7. Ya Luverne is a cool place I go through there to visit my grandma. So when I get some time I'll let you know and we can get together havent even heard of it any younger kin in L-Town? I lived there a while.

so my neighbor used to peek and stare every time he passed while I was working...weve become friends and he has 3 12" CVR's...single 4ohm...sealed. He has a rockford t1500 that fried...all 3 subs were parallel LOL. So I sold him one of my amps and ordered another one. we runnin that bitch at 6 friggen ohms. it's louder than his rockford was. we're gonna IB his trunk with them this weekend so ill make a build log of that later. the fuse holder that came with the BNIB amp had bad burn marks on the inside where the power wire makes its contact! Everything looks and works fine though. Now I'm nervouse I wont get a 4th amp for a while after the build is complete anyway, I made 2 of 3 baffles today, put 1 in on the backside of the wall frame so that I can mark out everything and add more bracing easily. Its hard to see from the pics, but theres a sub in each corner then a 22" port line. 22" is retarded. The 18's look tiny now. Anyway, my tuning was too high and after mapping things out I decided I can squeeze a bigger port to raise tuning and add area... but a quick run in ISD still shows 12.35Hz so I'll have to shorten the port a little. At the top there are 2 6.5" 2x4's coming down then connected with a 16" wide. On the bottom I made 2 triangles. It's the best I can do...so I decided I'm gonnatripple baffle the front still, but put a 4th on the back of the 6" wide bracing so I can caulk and screw together to hold and support the bracing. I'll lose a little more airspace, so maybe I wont have to shorten the port after all. baffle board on the back side, pic from the back looking in from inside looking back... port cutout line and the outline of the top support bottom 2 supports more of the same really, I just cant put the baffle boards in front where they are supposed to be cuz they wont fit through the doors, and I cant put them in through the back cuz the supports are in the way..I cant take the supports out cuz they are holdig the roof up..and Im not redoing the roof but 1 time cuz that was a nightmare.

I've got aprx 105 cubes before port displacement and wheel well/ AC condensor, heater core, subs, amps, and bracing. 20" X 50" port (55" total, 5" will stick out like my HT) is over 9 cubes displ... so 88 total, about 22 cubes per sub...same as my Aztek box. My aztek had a 7.5" diameter port for 44" of area, where 20" is 314/4= 78.5" per sub

front stage so it's being said that gauge must be measured by wire, not jacket included, but everyone has the same reaction...looks small for 0. So which is it?

the roof is in, it was a lot of work getting the roof to curve and bend...so bad that fasteners wont hold. Ive been considering using 2 2x6s to go behind the seats to keep them from going back and hitting the subs..well now they're roof supports as well sketched out the wall so I can see how I'm gonna make the # sign... it's looking like it will have to be just 2 going up and down, and not doubled up only part way side to side but maybe doubled up... port will be in the way I was only gonna tripple baffle the wall, but i may have to add a couple layers..but then the subs might get close to wacking the 2x6 roof supports/seat protectors 12,000 watts. Combined with the three 4-channels, that is 14,000 RMS potential