kryptonitewhite

I'm so pissed right now. years ago I was getting 50 foot rolls of 14 gauge speaker wire from walmart. I'm tired of Best Buy shit talking walmart, thinking they know more and have better shit. They DONT know shit at best buy even with special training. So best buy has always carried Monster Cable, 18 times the cost for the name and pretty color, and, generally smaller gauge. Well walmart stopped selling it years ago. They do monster cable now too. I had rewards card points about to expire at best buy fro purchases made YEARS ago. I had to use them. So I went and got a 100 foot spool for $50. Today I got ready to start running wire and realized... it's 16 gauge! I'm running 14,000 watts RMS. I'm not using 16 gauge. I have 1 50 foot spool of the old walmart 14 gauge that I have saved for this project for YEARS. I have some scrap around too that I used for my old HT way back when I got all this. So I have a 100 foot spool of 16 gauge bought with a rewards card cupon. Keep it and install with this? Hope I have enough old "cheap" walmart that is just as good if not better? Sorry if you work at best buy. I've gotten in fights with employees on forums before. Dont take it personally. I have yet to meet a single best buy employee that knows what thiele small paramteres are, winisd, or anything else that means anything..after all their "training". Too expensive for the same shit everyone else sells. END RANT

heres a vid of the toggle switch rig and doing the sequence to get video

I refuse to use electrical tape. In my 15 years of extensive electrical work, I never ever use electrical tape. I ALWAYS use duct tape and that will never change. BTW I meant to comment that after twisting the wires together, I then twisted them into a bunch, a tight ball, as I always do..but the pics of the ball were blurry. While driving around, I turned the 4 remote toggles on to see how the lights held up with current draw. They got warm! WTF!Just 4 of the lights, as the other 2 need to be left off after doing the sequence. I'm worried now what'll happen when there's 7 amps hooked to them too. Here it is: Avatar drivin in the car

thank you very much! 18Hz is FUN!

Alright I have 6 light up toggle swtiches. 1 for the super tweets, 1 for mid rangers, 1 for mid woofers, and 1 for subwoofers... so I can turn on any combination of them I want. Then I have 2 more for the video on the DVD player, 1 for foot pedal and 1 for parking brake. ripped the wire from the roof and burried in the dash

dude I was working out a deal with Kevin for 6 21" Maelstrom-X's, first 4... 2 in the house and 2 in the car, 15Hz tune, then 4 in the car...but not enough port area. We couldn't agree on the deal though. I've been tuning 20Hz and lower for 6 years, all of them but 1 turned out awesome. I did a 4th order bandpass but must have made a mistake. It blew a lot of air but it wasn't audible, wasn't even tactile like the other sub20Hz tunes. Either you can listen to them and do what everyone else does, or, you can experience what they will never ever understand... cuz theyve never actually DONE it. What did he estimate the FR and cabin gain to be? kevin had NOTHING to do with design. I use WinISD. If you have a thread, or want to make one, I'll be glad to run some plots with you. He and I only talked business and details about the drivers themselves. Nothing about my HT nor VAN builds.

I used a toggle switch for "park brake", and then connected the foot brake as is should be. Press the foot brake, flip the toggle twice, and release the foot brake. Video on the screen. . . BRIAN! well it's about time you posted in my thread... you just made my night for sure shall we just go ahead and order up a bunch of recones now or what?

thank you very much! I decided what to use the overhead lamp wores for that lit up the mirrors in the sunvisors

" To watch a video source: 1. push the foot brake to bring your vehicle to a complete stop at a safe location. Engage parking brake. 2. Keep pushing the foot brake and release the parking brake once then engage it again. 3. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time, release the foot brake. "

dude I was working out a deal with Kevin for 6 21" Maelstrom-X's, first 4... 2 in the house and 2 in the car, 15Hz tune, then 4 in the car...but not enough port area. We couldn't agree on the deal though. I've been tuning 20Hz and lower for 6 years, all of them but 1 turned out awesome. I did a 4th order bandpass but must have made a mistake. It blew a lot of air but it wasn't audible, wasn't even tactile like the other sub20Hz tunes. Either you can listen to them and do what everyone else does, or, you can experience what they will never ever understand... cuz theyve never actually DONE it.

The resin vapors were getting to me yesterday, the toggle switches have a lights DUH!

hey man I added you on FB! My friend did the same thing, just grounded the parking brake to the ground for the HU. But I tested my wire and it has nothing, which means it wants power input, no? the manual has a diagram showing the foot brake being spliced on the posative side after the switch before the lamp. THE parking brake on the posative side after the lamp but before the switch. it's confusing!

someone told me to get maxx link, but it has a HPF.. at least it goes down to 15Hz...where my tuning will be. but i love that the amps are adjustable down to defeated. I don't have a HP on my HT so I'm sure I won't need/want one in the VAN with double the subs in 1/4 the airspace

I'd definitely wire up a relay for the remote wires. I've actually seen a remote wire shorted somehow 9 years ago and the car damn near went up in flames. well, I have the large factory ceiling mount that has 4 sets of lights with buttons, the dome light, and the temp/milage gauge that I have modified to fit the roof. Then I have the rear dome light with 2 more maual lights that Im mounting on the wall. There's no room left for anything else. I still have the 2 wires that ran to the visors..when you open the mirror the visors lit. I was thinking about running those wires to the toggles for the remote wires.

pardon my brain fart: shouldn't a toggle switch have 2 contacts? positive and negative or in and out? I'm using toggle switches for the foot brake, parking brake, tweet amp remote, mid woof amp remote, midbass amp remote, and sub amp remotes. The switches have 3: positive, negative, and accessory. Brain fart or what? lol wow. So for my foot brake a hot wire into switch, then on the out the deck wire...so when I switch ON it will think I am pressing my foot brake. Hot wire in, parking brake wire on deck out so it thinks my parking brake is depressed. The other 4 switches, remote wire from deck split into 4, then run wires to the remotes on amps. So there is my second question: how many amps can the HU remote wire support? I have 4 subwoofer amps and three 4-channels. 7 amps. Later, I'm gonna have to worry about RCA's. Will I need an RCA distro block for the 4 subwoofer amps?

now i am just grinning from ear to ear! :D

I've had a bunch of those drill bit extentions all over in my way, now that Ive needed one I cant find any of them. I have at least 5 different tool stashes and boxes..kept digging, none to be found. So I ran to walmart and bought one so I can actually tighten the amps down... at first glance these pics look the same, but they look way better now that they're not just hanging :D

$45 for mine, but I think shipping of $15 brought it to $60 total. A guy from **** linked me, he's got the 4 DP21 in 4th order bandpass build over there. I can link ya if you want.

ya youre right. I was all worried Id have to wait forever for the 4th replacment amp, cuz he said it would, it was a nice surprise to get it so quick..now this not so nice surprise...

One of the amps has a loose item floating inside, like a screw or something. I don't want to complain and send it back to have them crack the case and make sure it wasn't off of something and came out, I'd guess just dropped inside... but I don't want to void warranty and open it myself (if I even have a warranty). What should I do? This is what happened years ago with my first Lanzar OPTI2000D. Something was loose, but I hooked it to the Avalanche anyway. It worked fine. All a sudden it fried the sub then went to protect mode. It had a busted fan, overheated, shorted out, 12V DC to sub.

I'll never forget last year when I had 6 Optima Red Tops and did the Big 3... using a vice grip. Pinch hard, keep squeezing, harder... closed. Release vice grip. Turn it in tighter 2 more turns... squeeze.... repeat...repeat. Screw that! Hydro! lol. There's 4 of the APs again, 1 per sub the one I sold to a neighbor, he's running 3 12" CVRs... at 6 ohms!

haha right right... alright there are 2 brake wires to make sure your parked to be able to view video. yellow blue is parking brake and yellow black is foot brake . To watch video source, push foot break to come to a complete stop, then engage park brake . Keep pushing foot brake and release parking brake once then engage again. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time release the foot brake . I'm going to use 2 toggle switches for this so others can watch video while I drive safely. The diagram showing splicing into the foot brake lamp and parking brake lamp shows the foot brake spliced into the positive wire after the switch, before the lamp. It shows the parking brake spliced after the lamp but before the switch, making it the negative. So does the foot need to be on a positive switch and the parking a grounded switch? anyway here's my first wobbly vid right after I installed it driving around playing a cd and getting a feel for the touch screen and tilt. Got the hydrolic crimper ( thanks again for the heads up rmzsuzuki89 ) and 4th subwoofer amp replacing the one I sold to my neighbor.