kryptonitewhite

I am never one to cut corners, on the flip side I am one to over build. I am ditching Iraggi alternators cuz their service SUCKS and I am going excessive amperage. I will be getting another HO alt and 2 more big AGM batteries and doing some more runs of ott. 1st off, do you guys recommend I get a missinglinkaudio voltage regulator? Anyway, should I get dual 4 ohm XXXs for the VAN and go 2 ohm, or should I run dual 2 at 1 ohm since I should have good electrical to back it up? I have heard stay 2 ohm, and I think that is what I will do. It's already too loud as it is 99% of the time.. my ears hurt and get numb on a daily basis and I know it's stupid. But when i'm showing off I need more headroom. I can't be bottoming subs out just to show off, I need to finish this huge install the right way. So I'm sucking it up and getting the big dawgs.

I should have stuk with Nate cuz I sold him some speakers a couple years ago and he was pretty cool, but as was shopping around before I started the build, Iraggi had the best price, and at that time got back to me in a reasonable amount of time. Nate gave me a good quote on a 300A

oh i know! so much fun tho.

mayhems hellz ya! apx. 10 cu ft for the front (vented) chamber and apx. 20 cu ft for the rear (sealed) chamber. 2 10" ports.

Ive decided, and its a GO! RE XXX! some more junk we did on the side today: talking him into selling his prefab and going single slot port down the side, along the back the batmobile! a lotta work ahead: Subway:eat fresh!

i'm with ya!

all three plots using Linkwitz HP 22Hz LP 32Hz excursion plots, bringing power up until Xmax is reached red 50 cubic feet 23Hz tune. power 49000 watts green 50 cubic feet 32Hz tune. power 20000 watts Note that at 32Hz, the red is at its peak excursion while green is at its least, and that greens "high side of the impedance saddle" excursion is still very little, as expected. Going from 23Hz to 32Hz is inverted. Whole different ball game. same as above but included 55 cubic feet sealed, yellow, port takes up 5 cubic feet. 20000 watts.

build log: http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/build-logs/67140-4-fi-audio-ib3-18s-walled-off-15hz-tune-van-build-log.html

tuning lower kicks you in the ass in the SPL and excursion department, thats why I went with 4 18's in a wall... so I can tune ungodly low and still be reasonably loud. slap together another box just like it but tuned higher to compare if possible.

I've been talking to a fellow forum member who has been very helpful leading me to some of you driver building companies and repair shops. He suggested that I make a video showing what I have and what I am doing. For a few of you this will be very redundant, sorry. The vids: First is a track made for me by DB-Audio consisting of 13Hz and 19Hz sine waves, blowing seeds through the port to show the insane amount of air being moved. Second is a vid I just made showing some of the van, but I forgot to show inside the enclosure where the amps and batteries are as well as under the hood with the AGM batterie, HO alt, and wiring. Some parts got windy so you cant hear a for a few seconds here and there. What I have: It all starts with alts, right? one Iraggi 200A @ idle 220A peak alternator. I am waiting to hear back on the 2nd and 3rd alternators. I chose the highest idle output sacrificing highest peak output. I will have three when it is finished. 0 gauge power throughout, except 4 gauge on the Kicker KX200.2 Under the hood, a group 31 AGM Deka Intimidator knock off made by O'Reilley auto parts. In back, 2 large 100AH AGMs. I will add 2 more of the large 100AH batteries after I get the other 2 alternators installed and possibly a missinglinkaudio voltage regulator. 4 Audiopipe AP30001D's rated 3000 RMS @ 2 ohm. 1 amp per 18" covering 22Hz-31.5Hz 1 Kicker KX850.4 on 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's running 71Hz-710Hz. Yes I am aware this "creates a hole" from 31Hz-71Hz. I said I'm doing this different~! 50 cubic feet, 20" diameter port, 18" long, resulting in a 23Hz tuning! 1 Kicker KX350.4 bridged on 2 CSS FR125S 4.5's running 710Hz-8kHz 1 KX200.2 on 2 Vifa XT25TG30 1" Ring Radiator tweets From the top, Alpine IVA-W505 DVD touch screen to control an Alpine PXA-H701 digital crossover via Ai-NET cable. 01' Chevy Astro van, 120 cans of Great Stuff expanding foam. 3/4" MDF sides, roof, doors. Front wall is 5 layers of 3/4" MDF, 2 layers recessed for countersunk subs. Backed by a doubled up 2"x6" frame. Hydrogen bomb proof. Rear wall is a single layer of 3/4" MDF backed by single layer frame of 2"x6"s 12 large tubes of PL PRO subfloor adhesive just for the front wall, more than 30 total tubes used. I only recently completed the structural build, so cosmetics will start soon. It looks messy now, but I haven't even started cosmetics. I can get 6 18" RE Audio XXX 18's, the 06' version, for $800 a piece authorized online dealer. If I can cut that in 1/2, $400, I'd buy some custom subs with 40mmXmax and 50mm Xmech! ( I need 2 18's for my home theater that also implements 2 IB3 18's... 128 cubic feet per enclosure, 12" diameter port 5" long for a 14Hz tune run off a pair of Behringer EP4000s)

kryptonitewhite at hotmail nothing impressive, jus a lil old school and a good new tune. people hate and talk _-.= for good stuff, so may as well throw boring junk up too why not will be painting the van and doing cosmetics soon, get her finished before some new subs. If Iraggi was better at emails Id have my 2nd alt ordered and working on a 3rd HO alt

usually my camera wont capture flex, but u can in this one. Im gonna have to get some steel tubing cuz it goes almost 3" and air BLOWS through the port through the whole cabin went outta town to do some box business, on the way back on the interstate I put the windows al the way up... I usually leave at least a few inch gap otherwise the subs get choked out. All the way up the doors flexed almost 3", thought they were gonna rip and tear. The port was blowing mad air, circulating the whole cabin. I wish I had paper with or somethin to show it. built the box for ty, gonna put a false floor on top the box fillin the whole trunk

I need to check the front AC door flaps? How do I do that?! tranny is OK, had it flushed. No broken mounts, but the bushings are getting worn, rear leaf springs getting saggy, need re-arched, he said I'm ok for a while..nothing imminent. But.. my AC compressor and blower: I was told to disconnect my compressor when I got the van, but I shouldnt have. Now the berring/clutch is rusted and complaining. Dude said just let it go. When it goes it goes. I bought a recharge kit with oil, didn't help. It's full charged..but not cold in front, not blowing in front, but rear is freezing and blows like a tornado. So I need to check the doors/flaps under the dash?

4 Fi Audio IB3 18's, 4 Audiopipe AP30001D's, 3 Deka Intimidator knock offs from O'Reilley..AGM, Iraggi 220A alt does 200A at idle. 100ft of 0 gauge. DB Audio made this track, 19Hz, 15Hz, 13Hz sine waves. 50 cubic feet, 20" diameter sonotube 18.5" long for a 23Hz tune. Wall is 10" thick, 5 layers of 3/4" MDF backed by a doubled up 2"x6" frame, 20 large tubes of PL PRO for the wall, 30 all together or more. 110 cans Great Stuff expanding foam. rear wall 2"x6" frame 1 layer 3/4" MDF. Front stage 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's off a Kicker KX850.4, 2 CSS FR125S 4.5" full rangers off a KX350.4 bridged, 2 Vifa XT25TG30 1" Ring Radiator tweets off a KX200.2 Alpine IVA-W505 touch screen DVD for Ai-NET digital control of PXA-H701 crossover.. all 30dB slopes.

I am a firm believer in overpowering drivers. I think more drivers are killed from clipping and distortion than from overpowering cleanly. Obviousely, as I am running IB3 18's off 3000 watt amps, though obviousely I'm not giving them 3000 watts. I've been repeatedly told that both the Maelstrom-X 18 and the 06' XXX 18 will take 3000 RMS all day long. So most people would think my 4 AP30001Ds would still be over kill when I upgrade to either driver. However I don't want to push the AP30001Ds hard, I would really like to get 2 more HO alts from Iraggi, 4 more AP30001Ds, and 2 more AGM batteries. However, I don't think my van could handle it. She doesn't flex a whole lot on the outside, but I can see and hear so much stress already from the IB3's. IDK if I could squeeze all that into her, and, thats a lot more $$$ were talking. So if I went crazy and got 06' XXX's... should I just get dual 4 ohm and run each one off of an AP30001D? Or should I try to get 4 more and run 1 AP per 2 ohm coil?

I wanted SAZ-4500D's so so bad, but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and another:

I was watching it on my phone when i posted that. he looked 8 or 9 years old. lol I hope he doesnt check this forum lol... hes a really cool kid, he made a few cracks himself about being too small to hit his head on the roof... cuz his buddy is tall and I had to warn him lol

Ya I chose the wall location judging by the side door and a roof support...are you saying it's further back then I maybe should have done it? It's my first wall. The speakers up top are freakin AWESOME. I caught a lot of shit from a few SQ buddies of mine, but I think I can safely say I proved them wrong. It's not like a PA system in a grocierie store, in fact I think it sounds better up there...sounds like it's coming from strait ahead. There is a bit of flex, but for the output... it's well damped. Once I get it finished I may get into competing and replace the IB3's with 06' XXX 18's... if I tour, I could make it a point to detour for demos! Take the idea and run with it! It works great. I never understood the competative hush-hush secrecy if tips and tricks. IMHO, we should all share and help eachother out, not keep our ideas secret to win. where u at in this god forsaken state? I'd like to see your setup as well! I'm in Watertown! Straight north on I-29! I'll make my way up there one of these days.. you got a shop? You an RE/USAmps dealer or have one there? I think that's in Brookings tho...