kryptonitewhite

alright, what I have: VAN: 50 cubic feet, 20" diameter port, 18.5" long, 22Hz tune, assuming amps do 1000 watts before clipping then 4000 watts, assuming they do 1500 watts before clipping 6000 watts high pass 20Hz low pass 31.5hz 30dB/oct... with WinISD I am setting to link-riley 4th order HT: 128 cubic feet (per sub) 12 diameter port (per sub) 5" long for a 13Hz tune ( I said 13.5-15Hz tune in video) 2 EP4000's, rated 2500 rms @ 4 ohms, I am running 8 ohms, even at 8 ohms IF they got full current delivery, rated 1750 rms. I am gonna guess Im maybe getting 1000 watts each peak. IB3's have a 30mm Xmax, 42mm Xmech. I can bottom my subs out in all applications, so 42mm RED LINE is van, 50cu ft 22Hz tune, HP L-R 4th order 20Hz, LP L-R 4th order 31.5Hz. WinISD puts the drivers at 42mm at tuning with 999,999 watts. 1 millioin watts. I'm not giving each of them a million watts when I bottom them out. YELLO LINE is HT, 128 cubic feet each, 13Hz tune each, no HP filter, LP 250Hz per Denon subwoofer setting. WinISD takes 2000 watts to get to 41mm at tuning. My EP4000s are NOT each putting out 2000 watts when I bottom them out! After I get the recones, I will make a vid of me bottoming them out at tuning for ya all. video home theater full excursion at tuning for a couple minutes, drivers not even warm, maybe 600 watts each

looks like Atmos Audio might be the guys who are gonna do this!

beautiful! I love your work! I hope youre gonna use PL PRO subfloor adheisive, and a lot of it. That would be stronger and more spread out than the bolts, but also will make it more air tight. Plus fill in with foam. Lookin good!

Dan says NOPE, OEM only innertube..lol..that was brought up long ago with the Parthenon!

Thanks Sandt38. I havent talked to Dan in a few months, he was going to let me buy a batch of the XBL tweets but i think his side kick Mark put his foot down. I talked to Scott a few days ago about a custom 30" and 20" driver using the Parthenon. Right off the bat though, going from 4 18's and a 20" port to a 20" driver with 4 16" ports kills Sd efficiency and port material area for frictional losses. If I could start a new van build, he might consider a 30" driver using the Parthenon

WinISD: All things being equal, 23Hz tune vs 33Hz tune, 33Hz gets a 12dB gain All things equal, Fi Q (built for my application) vs IB3 ( "can't/won't work not designed to work in my application") Even 23Hz vs 31Hz, 9dB gain

so you dont have people with BTLs breaking theirs when they burp? I guess youll have to look for my order for 6 BTLs then Nick Sure they break them..when they don't have their subsonic filter set properly and play way below tuning and shred the soft parts... Burping is generally on tuning, and is the least stressful on the soft parts mechanically speaking.. Point is, you bought IB woofers that are made for 550 watts @ 20Hz and have a single spider on them and put them in a ported box...it's not made for that. It's like taking a lotus and trying to go mud bogging with it...i'm surprised they lasted as long as they did to be dead honest with you. Car audio subs..are made for car audio..those subs aren't made for a ported box in a vehicle.tBTL's have a LOT stiffer suspension on them and keep things under control to an extent...I told you that when you bought them and you didn't want to listen and I still disagree with you, Nick, respectfully. If I didn't burp them and crank them full blast, clipping the shit out of my amps and bottoming the subs, they'd still be fine. I went into it knowing full well i was going to break them either by burning coils, bottoming, or both

still in the box, pics taken from inside

so you dont have people with BTLs breaking theirs when they burp? I guess youll have to look for my order for 6 BTLs then Nick

I made a video of candy shop last nite with the top 2 subs, left one is blown but still going, bottom 2 are seazed: coil on top plate... so I disconnected them from the amps. Got all four blue lights, amps are OK. "put on" 148.2 LP set to 31.5Hz, HP set to 20Hz... only wanted the low note. clipping is terrible, not bad for needing 2 more HO alts and 4 more batteries! 132.5 15Hz 136.7 17Hz 140.3 18Hz 142.5 19Hz 143.8 20Hz 144.9 21Hz 145.7 22Hz Terrible clipping, not as bad from 23Hz on up, but 15Hz-22Hz was massive clipping. So now I need 2 more HO alts and 4 more batteries. 4 Fi IB3 18's, 50 cubic feet, 20" diameter port 18" long for a 23Hz tune (more like 55 cubic feet 20Hz tune, but I'll do impedance sweeps later to get exact) 147.7 23Hz hair trick unintentional My resonant frequancy appeared to be 43Hz and 63Hz, according to the Tem Lab operator...but I think that was just harmonics he was going by. We never got to make a sweep, I wonder if I could get in the 50's up high where it gets real loud.

you owe me a new monitor. I just spit my coffee all over. :-P

YEP! lol. thank you!

I was clipping horribly, especially from 15Hz-20Hz, I need 2 more HO alts and 4 more batteries

What is the MX for? Im assuming it's neither an SPL driver nor a SQ driver. Why is it so weak? My IB3s are more than 12Bl!

well either way, I dig your build, and it's what I have been doing locally with "the wrong" drivers, with excellent rsults and happy owners. I get flamed a lot for using my IB3's. For one thing, all the self proclaimed know-it-alls should know full well that a vented enclosure acts as a sealed enclosure above port usage. So my 23Hz tuning is basically sealed, therefor I am running mine "IB" with 13 cubes per sub, which is what I guestimate both of yours are sharing. As others have been saying, and I see that you intend on working on, yours is a lossy/leaky sealed enclosure, as each driver has a Vas of 14 cubic feet, so each driver alone should have more than 140 cubic feet each using the smaller "10X" Vas rule of thumb. mI am not hating by any means, I want these things to be more common... as the subs are cheaper, lighter, the ampscan be much smaller as power REQUIREMENT is less ( not better power handling) and no need for heavy enclosures that take up your whole trunk. Keep it up!

OK, I know the Exodus Maelstrom-X inside and out. Basically an Adire Audio Tumult. flat responce, likes low end due to Fs and Xmax, likes high end do to low inductance from XBL, but stays flat inbetwen due to XBL. BTL huge motor, hump in responce especiaally at tuning. BL less BL little flatter responce? little more low end? Q a lot less BL, a lot flatter responce, a lot more low end? little grasshopper all over again from a new angle

If I calculated BL/Re for myself and got 151.424, I wouldn't know what that meant.

so is the MX a beast? or not so much fr having a 4" coil

How about I get RE Audio MX 18's then?

I am looking at either 6 06'RE Audio XXX 18's, 6 Soundstream XXX-18's, or building my own subs from scratch. What I must have: More than my current 30mm Xmax, 40mm Xmech, more than 11 for a Bl ( my subs are custom dual 4 ohm so I believe 8 layer and a touch more Bl than the single 4....as per website for s2 and s4... " Bl: 8.43 N/A | 11.8 N/A" ) A standard 3.5" p-p 1/2 roll surround will not gain any excursion. I am NOT looking to gain any output from gain in Bl and/or efficiency! So BTL/BL/Q... SMD/HAVOC/Mayhem... Maelstrom-X.. all will be ignored. I can get the Soundstream XXX's refurbed for 1/2 the cost of authorized internet RE Audio new. I may order coils, plates, pole pieces, double surrounds, basket, etc... and build my own. What I have and will NOT change: 50 cubic feet, 20" diameter port 18" long for a 23Hz tune. 4 AP30001D's and electric to back them. LP 31.5Hz 30dB slope, HP 22Hz 30dB slope. Don't like it? please don't post. It's not for your car, it's not for what you like or want, it's not for what's "right" or "wrong" or could or should be done. I know 99% of all posts will be "do this instead" and "youre retarded" and thats fine, I simply ignore them and let you have your fun accomplishing whatevber you get out of taking your time to read all this mumbo jumbo, taking the time to click reply, taking the time to type shit I am going to just skip anyway. Those of you who take it seriousely, think outside the box, and at least attempt to help: THANK YOU, much respect!

VID WOTWs 4 18's 50cu ft 23Hz tune INSANE! Camera just can not do any justice. I been sayin my HP is set to 22Hz, but it's set to 20Hz.

very impressive! just curious, with the car audio croud, is there an "Infinite Baffle Vas:enclosure volume ratio"? Home theater is usually 20X Vas, sometimes 10X Vas. Josh, Ricci, says 4X Vas is close enough to diminishing returns.

Exodus Audio Maelstrom-X 18" 1) Speaker Parameters Diameter: 18.00 (inches) Qts: 0.37 Fs: 17.40 (Hz) Vas: 11.05 (cubic feet) = 312.90 (liters) S: 0.70 (response curve - .4 thru .7) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) 4th Order Bandpass Cabinet Parameters Lower 3db Rolloff: 20.00 Hz (F3 Provided by user) High 3db Rolloff: 53.89 Hz (Calculated) Sealed Box: 4.32 cubic feet = 7458.70 cubic inches = 122.24 liters Ported Box: 2.96 cubic feet = 5122.98 cubic inches = 83.96 liters Tuning Frequency: 32.83 Hz -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3a) If using a Single Port User definable port size: Port Diameter: 8.00 inches (203.20 mm) Port Length: 36.47 inches (926.43 mm) Suggested: (.3 X Speaker Diameter) Port Diameter: 5.40 inches (137.16 mm) Port Length: 15.33 inches (389.47 mm)

um... are there any options other than D2?! http://reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_xxx