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kryptonitewhite

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Everything posted by kryptonitewhite

  1. kryptonitewhite

    PEQ cut at 30Hz

    same as most my threads, random statements in hopes somethin will come up. ive never EQed before, so when I get stuck, ill post it here where ive laid a little base line of my intentions i guess
  2. kryptonitewhite

    PEQ cut at 30Hz

    I had a thread about it when i was still designing it, someone made up this pic for me and I added a little to it
  3. kryptonitewhite

    PEQ cut at 30Hz

    I aproximated cabin airspace... same portmy goal was just to buildit as big and tune it as low as I could, so goals met. Just need to PEQ out 30-60 as originally planned, but Ive never used EQing before so iw as scared Ive got the crossover thing mastered (well, changing them anyway) so time to tackle EQing (gulp)
  4. kryptonitewhite

    Fi IB3 22

    OK, the last 2 boxes I built for locals used 3 12's ported, I made them into a diamond shape and liked it. What if I recone all 6 IB3s and use those for the HT and bought 4 new IB3s for the van. Can I do 3 D2's series/parallel for 3 ohms? Should I do 3 D4s parallel series for 6 ohms?
  5. kryptonitewhite

    PEQ cut at 30Hz

    lol alright, alright. here's the other kicker... with my cabin gain included, my rear enclosure is 60 cubic feet. My front cabin is 70 cubic feet. My rear enclosure is tuned to 21Hz. Windows up, my cabin is tund to 19Hz. So if I burp windows up, am I doble tuned to 19Hz and 21Hz? Shoot for the middle? Windows down, am I 6th order BP?
  6. kryptonitewhite

    Fi IB3 22

    Nick my man, there's nothin wrong with these subs in this box! They do AWESOME! Its just that Ive been waiting 2 years for your 22's since I love the 18's so much. Ive had the output of two 22's ( four 18's) in mind all this time, so having *just* two weighs on my mind. Now I am bummed having finally figured out (if you havent noticed, Im kinda slow ) that one 22 isn't going to have double the output Im getting from one 18. But I do agree with you, I need to brace these suckers and that should help. I got more 2"x4" last weekend, Ive already had some sitting around for them for a while, but I wanted to wait to brace until I cut the sub holes larger for the 22's so I can get longer braces inside. I do listen, I jsut disagree I mean, if you offer me a free upgrade to ANY of your AA/Fi lineup I just cover shipping, sure thing man... my dumbass would put BTLs, Mayhems, Havocs, or SMDs in the damn thing...if it were the same $199 per man!
  7. kryptonitewhite

    Fi IB3 22

    I decided to cut the towers down to 30 cubes each with a 10" port as suggested, 30" length for a 13.7Hz tune...within 1Hz of the towers tune. I decided to make a final vid of the towers at their true tuning, 13Hz, before i cut them down. I always claim 1hz higher to be safe. But then, I replotted the same thing I plotted 100 times before I built them: And it's really, really hard to agree. GREEN is what I really really want! 12Hz-18Hz giant peak, falls off and flat from there up. PINK is terrible! The INVERSE of what i want! OK, but I have to take into consideration power and excursion. 128 cubes I can give 1000 before 41mm is reached. 30 cubes take 1600. However, I can't get SPL to plot! what gives? I'm going to assume that with the power given, the 30 cubes box comes a lot closer to the 128. but when i click SPL, the plots disappear!
  8. kryptonitewhite

    PEQ cut at 30Hz

    you got me. Im not advanced, but at least I do a little plotting, no? I dont know how to include boundary/room/cabin gain. Im willing to learn though....
  9. kryptonitewhite

    Fi IB3 22

    Ive considered before cutting the towers apart and building 4 of the Aztek boxes, but slightly bigger and with 10" ports. So I'd have 4 24-30 cubic foot boxes each with a 10" port and an IB3 18. I'd stack 2 in each corner so it would be close to having the same towers with a divider for the subs. Well, not close, 60 cubic feet for 2 vs 128, but still. Thanks for helping me rethink the idea ///, I think I might do that. I'd run each pair at 4 ohm per EP4000. I am running both of the towers 4 ohm on one EP4000 right now to see what it's like. It is very comparable to 1 EP per sub @ 8 ohms. If I simply keep just 2 drivers and build another enclosure, I don't gain anything. My enclosure volume and port size are for the ultimate efficiency in theory. The idea was, the larger the enclosure, the more efficieny, the larger the port, the more efficiency, so I thought "whats the biggest I can build?" sheets come in 4'x8'... so I used those as all 4 sides and stuck a 12" port in there.
  10. kryptonitewhite

    2 DP21'S

    2 DP21's... no need, it's badass!
  11. kryptonitewhite

    Avalanche 18" That unfortunetly I blew out

    I wish I had some 18" Avas. Well worth getting reconed
  12. kryptonitewhite

    2 DP21'S

    Ive heard that you want a minimum of 1 port diameter clearance at the ends,2 of them look like they will have an effectilvely longer port length being so close to the enclosure wall... but thats just splitting hairs. Looks promasing!
  13. kryptonitewhite

    The Batmobile 4th order! 2 18's!

    thanks man, and I dig your sig and your avatar! need a bib.
  14. kryptonitewhite

    The Batmobile 4th order! 2 18's!

    What subs should we use for 4th order BP? We want a LOW tune around 25Hz-30Hz. Plenty of airspace available, 2 20"x20" square ports. 2 18's. Run off either one or two AP30001Ds.
  15. I have one EP4000 on 2 18's in 10 cubic feet 12" port tuned to 35Hz and 2 more 18's in separate 128 cubic foot boxes with 12" ports tuned to 13.5Hz The 2 in 10 cubes are so much louder, but the 2 in 128 each sound so much better!
  16. kryptonitewhite

    The Batmobile 4th order! 2 18's!

    after today, after putting the two "not as blown" IB3's in the 10 cubic foot box tuned to 35Hz, nah, I'm reconin! The two with the spiders ripped off my girlfriend cut apart and taped the gaps, plus to make things easier to check the batmobile cutouts we took the motor off the basket on the old one. so much lighter now chrome V black funny lookin cigar... ****in right foam again what
  17. kryptonitewhite

    The Batmobile 4th order! 2 18's!

    ill say it again! i learned not to do 30-60 cans in 1 day, 15 cans at a time. 1 can on each side early on, 1 more can on each side at the end sluts uh huh but they dont but they dont they dont hear me doh i got blood on my hands cuz I... I got blood on my.... I'm a nasty ...
  18. kryptonitewhite

    The Batmobile 4th order! 2 18's!

    thats right botches! FOAM! If youre not quick enough to jump on the wagon you get left behind. Did we learn anything with the VAN? yep. did we learn not to use foam? NOPE! I'll say it again. If you dont use duct tape and foam, youre a piece of ****
  19. kryptonitewhite

    The Batmobile 4th order! 2 18's!

    bugs were bad, so sum1 brought the mosquito plant over. could just watch the swarm fly away. neat.
  20. kryptonitewhite

    The Batmobile 4th order! 2 18's!

  21. kryptonitewhite

    The Batmobile 4th order! 2 18's!

    mayhems hellz ya! apx. 10 cu ft for the front (vented) chamber and apx. 20 cu ft for the rear (sealed) chamber. 2 10" ports. I'm sorry if i'm wrong, but don't you need to have a bigger ported chamber then the sealed chamber? I think i read that a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio get's good results. EDIT:cranberryyumyum, why are you a troll? No need to be so negative, if u haven't got any critisism that is usefull or nothing positive to say why say it? generally yes, but with the MX 18" with the tuning, it was perfect. If we wanted to raise tuning, we could have used the rar chamber and ran the ports throgh the front chamber He's now going IB though
  22. kryptonitewhite

    The Batmobile 4th order! 2 18's!

    Hey Matt, He cut a sheetmetal "wall" to support steel tubes, used masking tape as the moulding agent, then hit it with glass matt and resin. The front part of the curves is steel, sheetmetal.
  23. I have been in contact with many, many companies over the last few weeks. Companies that sell drivers, customize them, sell just parts, repair shops, you name it. No one has surrounds capable of more than 55mm one way. I keep getting told excess of 30mm Xmax is easy, 10" and 11" spiders not a problem. But surrounds. Surrounds is the issue. So then I emailed many, many, many companies looking for just surrounds. Stone walled. I am willing to pay $600 per 18"... either 4 for my van, or 6, 2 more for my home theater. $3600 for 6 18's. I'll start vague, Xmax as of right now is no longer a requirement, but this has to be reasonable. I can't have 50mm of excursion that is unusable cuz there's not enough motor force to push it, or it sounds like ass at 1/2 it's capability. But for now, Ill let Xmax and Bl slide. Reasonable Sd. I don't want a 10" cone with a 4" wide surround so that this thing can move 55mm one way. We will start there and see if/where this goes. kryptonitewhite at hotmail thanks
  24. kryptonitewhite

    I will pay anyone $600 per 18" to build me or find me 55mm+ o

    as you see in this video, my enclosure works as predicted with WinISD. The low 21Hz note and the next lowest note (which i do not know what it is) have the least excursion but the most port output. A consequence of tuning this low is higher excursion in the 30's. This is the trade off. As you see, this is where my excursion is highest..again, as predicted by WinISD, and this is what I sacrifice to get the FR curve that I want and am so pleased with. Yet the port offers little help in this high excursion range. Im sure though, of course, that most of you are very familiar with the "impedance saddle" and the excursion and output that comes with it as well, Im sure a bunch of you know a buncha guys that hit the two lowest notes in that track better than I do without unloading and aid of SSF or volume knob ;)
  25. kryptonitewhite

    I will pay anyone $600 per 18" to build me or find me 55mm+ o

    this guy says he brings his badass level 5's to "their maximum excursion" hmm, guess he broke his too YouTube - dc level 5 problems is my home theater is a bust too, cuz despite being able to make the back door on the opposite side of my house suck open enough to see sunlight through it with a 15Hz sine wave: I can still bring both of my subs to full excursion for a full minute at tuning without even getting the subs or amps warm. make the sheetmetal on my stove 2 rooms away ripple on the other side of the house, at 15Hz and I can play the bass will destroy you, main note 18Hz, sweeps down to 13Hz, and I maintain full excursion the whole way im not going for SPL just cuz I have a wall and got metered. If i was, I would have done 4th order clam shell. obviousely on a budget, or I wouldnt be running audippipe, IB3s, and only 1 HO alt, cheap wire, and only 2 batts
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