kryptonitewhite

badass

I know exactly what you mean about a few mm making the difference. I bet I've installed and removed the brackets I'm making now about 6 times each, so I start to see where things are a pain on the user side. I'm doing my best to make sure installation of my brackets is easy for the end user, or at the least can be done by one guy with a few wrenches. Thanks again for your patience, I'll keep updating this forum as products become available. do you have an email to get ahold of you at?

Unfortunately most likely. I wish I could say it would be sooner but the testing I put into each bracket is time consuming. Once I have a template made I do the CAD drawing and CNC out a metal prototype. Even after the first one is tested on the vehicle I like to do several more days of testing in different situations to make sure there is nothing that could be improved on. This really slows down how quickly I can design and produce new brackets, but I stand behind each one I make 100%. I can send you a PM as soon as I have a better idea of how long it will be before a bracket for your car is ready to ship out, again sorry for the wait. Troy Not a problem, now that i know youre on it I can be patient Im glad youre doing these right, even testing, cuz I had a hell of a time swapping out my HO in the stock location as it is... a couple mm of steel can make an "easy" drop in not so easy.

???? um... havent heard from OP

Thank you! And thank you all for your advice!

So I got on it today getting on the interstate, battery light came on, stayed on a few seconds then went off. Put it in neutral, reved it, nothing for a few seconds, stopped reving, light came on a few seconds. Pulled over, put DMM on front battery 14.18. Reved it up, droped to 13.2...stereo off. Checked rear batts, 14.18 running, dropped to 13.5 off, probably would have kept dropping slowly. O'Reilley AGM in front, 2 large O'Reilley AGMs in back 100aH. Iraggi HO alt, the highest at idle lowest peak: 160-180 idle, 200-220 peak.

brought the HO alt and the stock alt back to Vans, talked to the owner this time. What a difference. We had a blast going back and forth, guy knows his shit. The brush tensioner spring went bad. He replaced the assembly for me and I gave him my stock alt. I know he came out ahead, but my HO alt works great so I don't care!

Ya Kyle, my bad

email sent I emailed them 2 weeks ago and talked to Kevin about a bracket. Thank you! I know a lot of people are gonna talk ****, but 4 separate forums have said the same thing. But it never fails, anything I do, so many people think they gotta say sumthin stupid and when I get mad Im told not to over react. I was told to spray her down. So I did. Do I need to use anything to remove it from the pulley after it sits over nite? not sprayed yet, wood that got wet previousely not sprayed yet sprayed

pulled the Iraggi today, was gonna drop the stock back in so I have a vehicle to drive till I get it repaired and order a 2nd alt. The stock one has been sitting on a shelf in the basement since I pulled it. it didnt get wet, but it's been humid. The damn thing rusted and I cant even spin the pulley! Now what the f do I do? I am stranded at home, cant get ahold of Iraggi.

thats what Ive been afraid of... been emailing for months about ordering 2 more alts, and now twice about this...no reply, nor on FB site shrug i have no idea

Went and load tested the alt, only doing 99A (rated 160-200A @ idle 220 peak above 1500 RPM) and tested the batteries, theyre all good. Guess I gotta get ahold of Iraggi and see if it's a warranty issue. yay!

I went to Van's today, the local rebuild shop. The guy took the big ass DMM to my battery to confirm the voltage drop, told me to pull it and bring it in for a real test, and get this shit: He told me not to add alts but add batteries! So yup, Ill go to Advanced and O'reilleys now made a vid showing the drop on the van's voltmeter while driving. I dont hear any squeel, it happens even at low RPM...

I had to get a smaller belt since the pulley is smaller, and I got the high quality one knowing Id have a slightly tougher load. The belt doiesnt seem to slip. I know Iraggi is revamping, think Ill have any luck calling?

2001 Chevy Astro van 4.3L V6 Prefered: dual alt bracket for non-stock location to add 2 more alts for a total of 3 Next best thing: single alt bracket in non-stock location for adding a second alternator (as a dual bracket in stock location is probably impossible) 3rd, if possible, dual alt bracket... but theres almost no room in stock location for a dual bracket Thanks!

When I originally heard the IB3 18's Xmech was "shortly after its 30mm Xmax" I assumed maybe it was 31mm-33mm. So when I heard the IB3 22 was going to have a 38mm Xmax and 96% of the Vd of two IB3 18's, I thought the 22" was going to have a lot more Mechanical clearance than the 18's. But the 22's are going to have the same profile surrounds as the 18's, so the same or similar 41mm - 42mm Xmech. I'm not going to be able to replace my 18's with the 22's. At 8 ohms I already have to be careful to avoid over excursion. I planned on running 8 ohms for the 18's for safety, but 4 ohms for the 22's. The 22" isn't going to work. I'm probably going to have to order a 2nd pair of 18's for the towers. I hate the idea. 1st, a single sub has a much different FR than 2 subs in the same enclosure. 2nd I expected a little lower Fs with the 22's. 3rd I already have the 18's centered, it's gonna look funny adding a second driver to each box. I considered getting 2 more per box, 6 total, but I dont have enough $$ for that and the odd impedance is another issue. What to do?

I thought I posted this here already but I can't find it: I was clipping horribly, especially from 15Hz-20Hz, I need 2 more HO alts and 4 more batteries on my last few burps, after bottoming out a few times, it sounded funny. assumed that a coil or 3 or 4 was bent. the bottom 2 subs are coil-on-top plate... stuck all the way out. Other 2 subs are scratchy... bent formers, unraveling coils. Had 2 stuck subs and 2 blown subs on the last few burps and "Put ON"!!!

So over the last 2 years I pre-planned my van build making it clear that I don't want 30Hz-60Hz. That I must have as much 30Hz on down output as possible, but 60Hz on up would be nice as well. With only 1 HO alt, I was able to sort of get by by having my subs LPed at 31.5Hz. Less information to re-create, more power for the narrower band... and that narrower band is very high excursion (low frequency) for more cone motion to keep things cool with a clipped signal. Well I'll be getting 2 more HO alts, so I can bring the LP up to 100Hz where it should be, as I finally moved my 6.5's HP up to 100Hz. But my excursion problem, as predicted, is 25Hz-45Hz, and I want to take out 30-60 anyway. So I am playing with WinISD and for fun took out 30Hz at -6dB.

let me see a 13Hz sine wave video please. if it looks 1/2 credible, ill spend the money for a mic and get REW. Im calling your bluff.

sounds good, and on that note, how about mor copy/pasting that has nothing to do with the title? If I win the lotto, I'm going to pay scott for a full run of Parthenons. Whatever I dont use Ill give away. My van is 47" tall by 61" wide I'd either have 1 built with a 40" square cone and have a 20" port next to it to cover 15Hz-100Hz, or put it in 8th order and have it fart 15Hz-30Hz and have 2 18's LMS ULTRA 5400s behind the seats for 30Hz-100Hz. Or I could have 6 Parthenon motors put on 6 22" cones, get the tooling figured out for the surrounds, spyders, and baskets, and run 6 in a sealed wall. 2 high, 3 wide. 3Hz-100Hz If I ran into $100,000 Id redo the van built very close to what i have now, having learned quite a lot what to do a bit different, and run 4 RE AUDIO XXX 18's. Id I could get 4 LMS 5400's right now to swap, I would. If SS RL-ps or Maelstrom-X 18's were only $100 more per sub, Id have them in there right now. If I could get AA Avalanches for the same price, I would. Mayhems. Havocs. I got 3.5" p-p for $200. I get the same 30Hz down with these IB3s as I could with SS RL-ps or Maelstrom-X 18's AA Avalanches Mayhems. Havocs. None of these subs can move any further, therefore none of these gain gain any output from 30Hz on down. Yes they all have much better motors, much better FR curves, built for this application, but the fact is... if the IB3s can bottom out from 30hz down, and they move just as far, then there is nothing to be gained. I got 30mm Xmax for $200. You cant beat it. If someone offered me a trade for LMS ULTRAs (which have 50mm Xmech, 38MM Xmax) there would be a little to gain from 30Hz down. If someone offered me MX18's, AA Avas, RL-ps, Mayhems, or HAVOCS for 4100 more, Id have them. Paying double to tripple for no 30Hz down gain? not this guy. My home theater towers are 49"x98" faces. I'd do 2 22" Parthenon wide by 4 tall sealed, or 1 40" square each tuned to 7Hz

THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE IB3S ITS NOT THE APPLICATION THE IB3S ARE AS LOUD AS WERE EXPECTED. THE 22S WERENT OUT YET. NOW I REALIZE WHEN THEY ARE, THEY ARENT GONNA MOVE AS FAR AS I ASSUMED THEY WOULD IF I PUT MAELSTROM X, AVALANCHE, OR RL-P, I WILL NOT GAIN ANYTHING FROM 20HZ DOWN

If I cut my port down, will i lose dB at 25hz?

yes sir! So here's the switch: can it be loosely said, as a general statement, that often the peak SPL is sometimes about 5Hz above tuning? ( completely ignoring vehicle resonance) I am 60 cubes tuned to 21Hz, my peak from 30Hz down was 25Hz and 26Hz. I'm sure I would have peaked much higher above 30Hz, but i purposely did not go above 30. I am considering possibly maybe shortening my port as much as I can... my wall is 10" thick, so 10" port, reulting in a 24Hz tune. If I do this, will "put on" actually lose dBs on the 25Hz tone? Will my peak no longer be 25-26Hz, but maybe 29-30Hz?

It obviously has nothing to do with a PEQ cut at 30Hz they rarely ever have anything to do with the title, do they? lol