kryptonitewhite

I could EASILY build a vehicle in the mid 50's maybe even 60's for less then half that. :-/ My old Ram did a 147 at 28Hz with 2k and a shitty wall...... He won't listen. because I am listening to a wide group of people on a wide range of forums, not four know it alls. Out of every 10 people, I get one or two saying they can do it with two 10's and $2k the other 9 say its extremely difficult even with 20k and testing retesting so if youre tired of repeating yourself, please, just move on. I still say thank you, I know youre trying to help, I know youre blue in the face, but youre the minority making it sound easier than everyone else is saying. maybe 9 in 10 are stupid and you are the 1 in 10 that has it fugured out. why dont you cut me as a loss?

thank you

148 still isn't 150 am I really trying to get a 150 though? Or am I trying to feel people out to see what really is impressive for a cheap daily driver at 25Hz? Cuz over the last few days this has been fruitful. I have found theres always goign to be the rude comments, and the people saying 150 is easy and can be done for $2k, but the majority say 148 @ 25 is very good period, let alone chap, let alone daily driver. Sure the thread is titled "what will it take to get 150" and if your stuck on that, stay stuck.

Besides other user's comments, you copy/paste the same text and pics onto every forum. If you corrected something, you sure don't post it. Last line (and the other post), by the way, is your butthurt showing again. Show me where I said "several stupid things." About the 1 wire split to 14? That should be common sense. I didn't say the switches have duct tape on them...the wires do. We all can see that. Any negative comments, and you leave in a huff. Pissed off by people calling out your shoddy, sub-par, unsafe craftsmanship you're so proud of... Btw...it's "douches." A "deuce" is what you leave in a toilet, or a common nickname for a 1932 Ford coupe. still no fire. weird. and theres no reason for negative comments. thats jsut stupid. dont like it, go away.

Most likely a Buick Rendezevous... like last year, I'll set out tomorrow and may have one by the end of the day... but last time I ended up with an Aztek... we will see how it goes this time. I currently have 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's, 2 CSS FR125S's, and 2 Vifa XT25TG30 ring radiators. I have a Kicker KX850.4 with a bad crossover on 1 channel for the 6.4's, a KX350.4 to be bridged 8ohm on the 4" full rangers, and a KX200.2 thats blown for the tweets. I can send the amps in to Kicker for repair, but I might just buy all new ZX series..IDK yet. I'll be getting some SHURiKEN SK-BT80 batteries from SicAudio, a HO alt, and proably some audiopipe ap3000d's... Alpine W200 w/ Alpine PXA-H701. I'll wall off the van with a few layers of MDF, 14" sonotube port in the center of the quad 18's... but no enclosure on the back side. I know I know... owell. After stripping it nekid, I'll use expanding foam to fill in everything I can then try to get a large quantity of resin to coat everything. Make it as air tight and rigid as possible. How sweet to pull up in the lanes and pop open the hatch and burp... unless I get more port gain with the hatch shut. This should be interesting, as the wall will divide the van into 2 chambers... the port connecting the 2... windows up IDK. Windows down, 6th order to the world. Will there be two tunings? a double impedance saddle? 2 low excursion points? we will have to see. I'm also doing an HT build calling them the Twin Towers... dual 128 cubic foot enclosures each with an IB3 18" with a 12" sonotube port starting with a 6.5Hz tune and working my way up to 15Hz. Another learning/experimenting project.

ah that makes sense heres what i got sitting, waiting

waitin on brackets, sir, jus sayin :-P

I had a choice of more power at idle, inbetween, or more peak. The smallest alt is rated 160A-200A at idle 220A peak, the biggest alt is rated 160A-180A at idle 300A peak. I chose 200A idle 220A peak. I was idling. I should have gotten a minimum of 160A and up to 200A at idle. Ive had Dominic Irragi on my Facebook since I started my research, he deleted it and started a new one. I added him, bet he doesnt accept! I sent yet another email last nite, we will see Emailed him again last nite: bad alt? good alt?‏ 1/29/11 [email protected] Sent: Sat 1/29/11 9:21 PM To: [email protected] Hotmail Active Viewadvanced auto CCA voltage.AVI Go to YouTube Play video advanced auto print out battery test 12.82V measured 1256 CCA rated 758 CCA Temp 21deg F starter voltage 11.74V 0.0A time 625mS dipped to 10V Charging system test no load 14.62V loaded 15.58V… 00:02:50 Added on 1/29/11 Loading video preview from YouTubeThere was a problem connecting to YouTube. This video may not exist or it may only play on YouTube. Try going to their website: YouTube - oreilley 74A load.AVI I just went to have my 160@idle 220 peak tested, it was load tested as 74A. It is rated 160-200A @ idle, 220A peak. Test no good? I want to make sure the Iraggi works as it should before adding a 2nd alt. Thanks! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I went to Advanced Auto, their load test doesnt do ampers, 1st with car off all electric off: advanced auto print out battery test 12.82V measured 1256 CCA rated 758 CCA Temp 21deg F While stating: starter voltage 11.74V 0.0A time 625mS dipped to 10V running: Charging system test no load 14.62V ---A loaded 15.58V ---A ripple 37mV YouTube - advanced auto CCA voltage.AVI Went to O'Reilley's Load test 74A YouTube - oreilley 74A load.AVI

ya I got my 2nd alt from excessive amperage, 300A, but I dont want to install it till i know the iraggi pulls its weight so I dont blow them both

thats just not cool at all. I assume when I pay 2-3X the cost of a new factory alt, that it's going to be rewound and have bigger diodes and the whole works, is this why he is MIA? Not cool

I have heard the load test is very inaccurate and unreliable, but I am also hearing Iraggi/Dom has a bad rep for reliability and notorious for regular factory alts with larger regulators.

we're showin mom the thread right now, she's not so impressed, but she will get over it by the nite BTW he likes your Stewie avatar

OK, OK, you guys are right. It's one thing for me to watch TV with bad language and bad images and listen to crude inappropriate music, but it's another to flip my kid off. I was kind of arrogant and defensive last night, I just got upset cuz I felt attact. It seems no matter what I do, no matter how good my system is, that is always overlooked and nothing but negative comes from it. I am a red neck hill billy from the north that uses duct tape and Great Stuff expanding foam and can't even break a 150 below 30Hz. I made a video apologizing to my kid, cuz I really am sorry and I should have known better. I am sorry.

did I get banned from SMD for playing an 18" with a kid in the car too? Then arguing with a mod about it?

Even if it wasn't his own kid, wtf. yeah, what the fuck?!

sure as fuck did

*only* a 148 @ 25Hz waiting on brackets for 2nd alt got a flash of warm weather, finally had to bit the bullet '

In all honesty I dont think I will do anything other than add the alt and be happy with what Ive got. After I get the alt in I will go in and TL again, basically see if I get the same scores from 29Hz on down but unclipped this time, and since I will have the other alt, I will do 20Hz-60Hz sweeps and get my peak and burp up there and see what my peak will be. I expect a 154 around 47Hz... just a total guess. Then no more numbers talk, I will jsut enjoy the shit out of it. My front stage alone is amazing. Im finally done tweaking it. I forgot to turn my HP back up on my 6.5's last nite, made a video of thm today. The system does get plenty loud and sounds the way I want it to. I am happy.

I built a 10cu ft box last year with a 12" port 17" long two free ends for a 35Hz tune last year for a guy. He never paid up. He was planning on two Fi BTL 18's and an AP30001D. What is the cheapest sub that would perform decent in it? People around here either don't have money and want me to find them stolen gear for dirt cheap, or they waste it at the local shops and get crap for eighteeen times their value. When summer comes I'll get people beating down my door, I need to sell this box, whats the cheapest subs I can drop in there yet still get decent performance with a cheap 1000 watt amp? Mind you none of these people will have $$$ to get a solid 2kw-3kw amp, nor BTLs or anything else good. These people want two 12" rip-offs for under $50 with an amp and box. I modeled the BTL, Q, SSD, and IB3 for shits...doesnt have to be Fi. SSD and Q look ok I guess, nothing I'd or any of us would want.

What brought on this thread was yesterday my girlfriend and I started going through my saved receipts, emai receipts, etc. We just finished. I spent aproximately $10,776.26 on everything but the van, $4070 for the van, ballpark $14,846.26. I spent $15k to build the van. To date, though this is NOT a competition vehicle, I did a 148.2dB @ 25Hz without the 2nd HO 300A alternator installed and 2nd spool of power wire. No tinkering and tweaking yet.

You do realize that 3 dB is twice as hard to accomplish, and 5 db is almost four times harder to accomplish, right? 5 dB is 50% louder. That's more than a little tweaking unless everything was just plain wrong to start with. Some class D amps (mostly cheap ones) have limited frequency response, but I've never seen one that had greater than a 30 hz limitation. If it wasn't that, it was probably a subsonic filter setting that wasn't right OR was a set figure like Kicker's 25's hz. But again, what actually plays 25 hz or below? I was thinking the same thing *only* 5dB? lol class D has trouble down low do to the switching of the amp, no? Which is why most have a minimum HP/SSF thats usually not defeatabe?

as for the towers, they couldnt have been a bigger success. unfortunately i havent been able to run REW or any other measurement software but if someone sent a mic and soundcard needed on loan, Id take a $200 bet I get well above reference where I wanted it, 10Hz-20Hz, and that with the exception of room modes, suck outs, nulls, and whatever other terrible things a room can/will do, the enclosures themselves have a relatvely flat responce from 10Hz-80Hz as per LFE. apparently you havent seen what the towers do from 10Hz-20Hz, or that they easily get down to 5Hz

actually you dont get it. I got a 148 with NO tweaking doing everything you tell me NOT to do. do you really think I am really asking how to redo all this to gain 2 more dB over what i already have without having tweaked a thing or added my 2nd alt yet? I was trying to get you all to spell out how I "should" have done it and what that would cost, cuz I am about done tallying my costs and it's 1/2 of the average guestimates. Read between the lines. I almost did it. 148dB @ 25Hz. And yet youre telling me I did wrong? I haven't even tweaked yet or added my 2nd alt. Am I being redundant? I haven't even tweaked yet or added my 2nd alt. Am I being redundant???

thanks guys. really, I should be sort of proud that I even made 148 then? Or not so much?

give me a general run down of what I may be looking at