kryptonitewhite

This one is better in a way, IDKY but during the day it seemed louder and moved further... warmer temp? But the camera sucked, normal light combined with refresh rate? I really don't get how the window can move that far without busting, I tried by hand and couldn't move it 1/2 this:

I know some do, but a lot don't for some reason. I still see threads pop up here and there with heated arguments. I am all about free-air break in for long periods of time near Xmax, as was attempted with these subs. The subs in this vid I reconed, broke in just playing around with a pair of EP4000s in my house, then I had them in my towers for a couple weeks until the brand new subs came. I guess I am a lot harder on them in the van than the HT reconing four of them free air break in putting them in the ht after break in beating them up in the HT still in the towers, new ones on the bed waiting to be swapped out thanks, and for sure! soon as I get the 2nd alt brackets, I can turn the sub level up!

Even after the caulk/resin/foam door jam to keep the door from opening and shutting from the subs, still get a little door flex yet. It's so hard to open and close the doors that the handles are breaking off. I just couldnt wait to add the 2nd alt anymore, put the subs in, instead of "saving power" by setting the LP way down at 31.5Hz I set it way up at 100Hz and added P-EQ at 22Hz with +7dB and a Q of 1... perfect! So much louder yet so much easier on the alt...and no more excursion issues! bassotronics make it drop the van is alive mad window flex

Troy, no go on the Limo Expedition Even if so, I still had to install the 2nd alt and touch up the ugliness lol Thats what i initially thought at the inception of the van build: Astro's everywhere in the arena! wtf??

from inside while crusin

after making those subsonic vids, crazy thing happened. I was listening today lower than usual yet really low songs were much louder than usual. subs broke in. I dont understand how some people dont believe in driver break in, I have the softest suspension you can get: single soft spider and single layer surround. I had the crossover at 100Hz and P-EQ at 22Hz Q of 1 +7dB, now I am LP at 200Hz (lost my highs after break in) and brought the P-EQ down to +4dB. swear I made a wotws last summer when i got the subs in, guess not, made this last nite: wotws dts has no lows, but bassotronics has massive output? w505 must HP movies! korn another brick in the wall

email bassotronics at [email protected] he's a cool dude, $1 paypal per song! bass i love you

at the end of this video you see that even after the caulk/resin/foam jams I made, even with the windows down part way (it's much worse with the windows all the way up), the subs still flex the doors open far enough to see inside/outside the van with the doors shut all the way at first the 7"ers and 4.5"ers are on for a split second, but I turned them off right away to show they are moving from the subs, later in I turn them back on opus dei mad window mirror door seat flex despite caulk foam resin door jam

2nd alt not in destiny of van

What's your email? Went to my local shop yesterday with pics of BLADE ICE's (BILTD's) adaptors, $100/hr plus material but he's guessing 2-4 hrs, $350-$400 ballpark Thats getting close to my quotes for dual brackets with pulleys!

I went to Advanced Auto, their load test doesnt do ampers, 1st with car off all electric off: advanced auto print out battery test 12.82V measured 1256 CCA rated 758 CCA Temp 21deg F While stating: starter voltage 11.74V 0.0A time 625mS dipped to 10V running: Charging system test no load 14.62V ---A loaded 15.58V ---A ripple 37mV Went to O'Reilley's Load test 74A

car audio sucks Next build, use a couple dc alts anybody here use nate at excessive amperage?

148 still isn't 150 am I really trying to get a 150 though? Or am I trying to feel people out to see what really is impressive for a cheap daily driver at 25Hz? Cuz over the last few days this has been fruitful. I have found theres always goign to be the rude comments, and the people saying 150 is easy and can be done for $2k, but the majority say 148 @ 25 is very good period, let alone chap, let alone daily driver. Sure the thread is titled "what will it take to get 150" and if your stuck on that, stay stuck. I think the better question is why 25 hz? If music doesn't play it, why make it peak there? Is there a new pissing match I'm unaware of about who can peak at the most useless frequency? Does it matters why he wants it to peak at a low freq? I don't know why you are ranting about it. He just sets a goal and tries to get to it. Some people think it's a failiure, i think it's a (expensive) lesson to learn thank you! thank you! thank you!

I could EASILY build a vehicle in the mid 50's maybe even 60's for less then half that. :-/ My old Ram did a 147 at 28Hz with 2k and a shitty wall...... He won't listen. because I am listening to a wide group of people on a wide range of forums, not four know it alls. Out of every 10 people, I get one or two saying they can do it with two 10's and $2k the other 9 say its extremely difficult even with 20k and testing retesting so if youre tired of repeating yourself, please, just move on. I still say thank you, I know youre trying to help, I know youre blue in the face, but youre the minority making it sound easier than everyone else is saying. maybe 9 in 10 are stupid and you are the 1 in 10 that has it fugured out. why dont you cut me as a loss? Maybe you should at least analyze that 10/10 people that see your wasted efforts suggest going with subs that AREN'T for IB. but thats the point: I break all of their stupid rules, and they are too busy thinking they are always right and hatin cuz I proved them wrong dont tune below 30Hz for music, dont tune below 30Hz in a car, dont use IB drivers in an enclosure, sure as hell dont port them, sure as sure as sure as hell dont port IB drivers in a car below 30Hz for music, dont give IB drivers rated 550watts 3KW while ported below 30hz in a car for music, dont put your front stage in your roof, dont use expanding foam or duct tape, dont flip your kid off, dont get your alt tested, just dont cuz we say cant and if u do we will call u names and carry on and on and on like we know a thing or two

148 still isn't 150 am I really trying to get a 150 though? Or am I trying to feel people out to see what really is impressive for a cheap daily driver at 25Hz? Cuz over the last few days this has been fruitful. I have found theres always goign to be the rude comments, and the people saying 150 is easy and can be done for $2k, but the majority say 148 @ 25 is very good period, let alone chap, let alone daily driver. Sure the thread is titled "what will it take to get 150" and if your stuck on that, stay stuck. I think the better question is why 25 hz? If music doesn't play it, why make it peak there? Is there a new pissing match I'm unaware of about who can peak at the most useless frequency? There are people saying they CAN do it, but have they? There are a lot of people that haven't built a thing in their life and think WinISD is accurate. Yes there is only 1/8th of a percent of all music that has REGULAR content below 30Hz, willi the kid's "love for money", wayne/jeezy/jay-z/kanya "put on" and the remixes. Mansons "nobodies", juvee's "slow motion", plenty more... to answer that I say that is what I enjoy. that is what I like. That is what I spent 1000s and thousands on in home and in theater, and if there wasnt music like that, I wouldnt have anything to play on my HT or my van. If there wasnt music with it, I would have learned by now and retuned. If I like country, I dont liste to rap stations. I dont tune in to rock stations. Well i play music that has sub 30Hz content because that is what I ENJOY. next, a LOT of music that doesnt have REGULAR sub 30Hz content still has some in it, you guys dont know it cuz at best you run sealed where the 30Hz on up content overpowers 30Hz on down unless it is recorded hot, louder, than the rest. But more of you are ported, and tuned higher than 30Hz, so the 30Hz on UP is MUCH louder than 30Hz on down, you unload below tunbing, so you have sealed boxes with giant air leaks in them when you play below tuning, so you cant hear the stuff that really is there. As for Audacity and other spectral analyzing software, when you zoom in on 100Hz down and it shows you PEAK frequency, try running a 10Hz, 15Hz, then 20Hz sine wave once and analyze it with the software. Then you should understand music content with all kinds of stuff happening below 100Hz why you dont notice the subsonic content.

car audio sucks

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/videos/71106-causing-some-comotion-over-ssa.html

The two Kicker KX850.4 crossovers are always set to HP 80Hz... 12dB/oct I usually have the Alpine PXA-H701 set to 80Hz 30dB/oct... total of 42dB/oct Sometimes I drop the Alpine down to 36Hz (I said 50Hz in video) but keep it way down. I forgot and thought I had subs this morning they are just so loud the camera distorts, they dont sound like that obviousely

So my 150dB @ 25Hz thread was a feeler. I found a local guy that wants my van after its finished and touched up/cleaned up thats selling a Limo for 10k. We went through all the receipts from the build. He wants to do an even swap. From the exhisting wall to the rear is 15', it's almost 5' tall and almost 5' wide. I can get 300 cubic feet plus some out of it and slot port it, 15Hz tune, and it only needs 5kw... two AP30001Ds each only being pushed to 2500 watts.

I have convinced Kevin Haskins at http://diycable.com/ to do a run of 4 ohm Exodus Anarchy 7"er's! http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=538 Fs = 45.8HZ Qes = 0.48 Qms = 6.37 Qts = 0.44 Vas = 9.61L Sd = 131cm^2 Xmax = 12.5 mm one-way Re = 6.4 Ohms Le = 0.84 mH BL = 10.79 N/A Power: 125W Approx: No IEC testing conducted Spl = 84.7 dB/1W/1M So 24 of these bad boys and 14 for my HT!

Touché

Then I have succeeded!

got a ways to go to finish it though before he will trade. I need brackets, gotta sand/paint/sand/paint/sand/paint the doors, ceiling, and wall. replace the carpet, seat covers or new seats, sand and paint the dash, make the rear wall pretty from the rear hatch, after I get the brackets gotta install the wire, alt, and new belt. Got a ways to go in a short time! I get a better deal on SX900.2s than SX500.2s, and another ZX850.4 same price as a ZX650.4 so now (7) ZX850.4s and (3) SX900.2s

HU:Alpine DVA 5205 (The W505 I was told had optical out, HUGE mistake getting it as it does NOT) crossover: Alpine PXA-H701 Line Driver(s): PG Amps: (2) SAZ4500D, (12) refurbed ZX850.4 (1) refurb ZX650.4 (6) SX500.2 subs: (6) Blue Print Audio IB4 18's Front stage: (24) AA Carbon Fiber (2) CSS FR125S (24) Vifa XT25TG30 I get under the hood wednessday to see about alts, all Excessive Amperage. (4) spools 0 gauge 100ft. 100 pack 0gauge terminal rings. (1) factory size AGM under hood, (4) large 100aH in rear.

Judging by your sig, you don't do mid 150's or 160's, so how can you say you could easily do it, if you've never done it? If you can do it so easily, why haven't you done it? Again, last I checked 147 isn't a 150.