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Everything posted by SacredTanakh
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For my build, all the amps will be in the trunk, so It really doesn't matter how bright the LEDs are. I realize it could be an issue for some, cause sometimes even the LED on my bass knob gets annoying at night. To me though seeing the internals is a big plus on the amp, not many companies do that.Even with the smoked cover, the internals are visible in daylight. Steve has moved away from clear covers, though, so I'm not sure how easy it will be to find one. Knew someone a couple weeks ago trying to find a new cover for his Levi I and Steve had nothing available for him.
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For my build, all the amps will be in the trunk, so It really doesn't matter how bright the LEDs are. I realize it could be an issue for some, cause sometimes even the LED on my bass knob gets annoying at night. To me though seeing the internals is a big plus on the amp, not many companies do that.
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Thanks for the replies, I ordered zed because of the quality. So I'm sure the price and wait will be well worth it when I get it and test it out on my new drivers. One thing I am hoping for is that they give me a clear cover instead of the tinted ones that some of the new amps coming out of there have had recently. It's something I should've mentioned when I ordered, but it slipped my mind. I'll see how it looks when it gets here though, and if it does have a tinted cover and It really bothers me I'll contact him and ask if I can buy a clear cover.
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That's disappointing, I ordered some as a gift for a friend. Hopefully you get them in soon, I'm sure you guys sell a large amount of them.
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Are you guys going to be posting pictures of each size warden in the store? I haven't seen a picture of the 21 or 18 anywhere yet.
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Are the new wardens all out higher frequency SPL subs like the older ones? My application is more in the 24hz to 40hz range, more towards the lower end. Also it will be purely for music, no competition use, just demos. My plan is 2 warden 21s in a wall tuned to around 32, on two crescendo 3500s. The old wardens I heard you could ask for softer or harder spiders which would change up the response. Is that also available if the stock response is too high? Thanks
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Oh okay, thanks
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So I have a dick neighbor that complains everytime he hears any music. Calls the cops everyday apparently. So they setup and undercover down the street and I got pulled over for my loud stereo. He told me the only reason he was there was waiting for me. He asked me how loud my stereo was, and I didnt know exactly how to answer that. He asked me the same question about 3-4 times and I said I dont know how loud it exactly is. Gave me a ticket that says car stereo audible over 50ft. Ive read the noise ordinance and it says this about the subject. "15. Radios, televisions, musical instruments and similar devices. Except as otherwise permitted for noncommercial spoken language in subsection B.8 of this section, no person shall operate, play or permit the operation or playing of any radio, television, phonograph, drum, musical instrument, sound amplifier or similar device that produces, reproduces or amplifies sound: a. Between the hours of 10:00 p.m. and 7:00 a.m. the following day in such a manner as to create a noise disturbance across a real property boundary or within a noise-sensitive zone, except for activities open to the public and for which a permit has been issued by the department as provided in section 15.70.070.A; b. In such a manner as to create a noise disturbance at 50 feet (15 meters) from such device when operated in or on a boat on public waters; or c. In such a manner as to create a noise disturbance to any person other than the operator of the device when operated on a common carrier by any passenger." So doesn't this mean it has to be in with 10pm and 7am? I don't really want to pay the fine, so is there anyway I can fight it? Also 1st offense is $100, 2nd $300, and third a forfeit of your sound system. I think the last to be very extreme considering the time, money, and effort us car audio enthusiasts put into our sound systems. Anyways thoughts and opinions appreciated :)/>
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Always been a fan of B2, very sexy amps. M1u is a nice choice
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You will be able to hear when you are over powering or bottoming out the driver. that's my point.
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DirectSpeakerSupplies.com live for viewing
SacredTanakh replied to Quentin Jarrell's topic in Direct Sound Solutions
Nice, looking forward to seeing it as it progresses. Someday I want to try a custom woofer just for fun, so your site may become useful to me personally also. -
Just do it by ear, set it at what your subwoofer crosses over at, and go up if needed.
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Loved the original, so I cant wait to hear more about V2 Honestly still like the sound of the dcons over the SP4, BTL ufo, and other such larger woofers that Ive heard. They sound good on everything you throw at them.
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I do plan on using fiberglass when doing this, if that was your question. Not really sure if it was or not though.
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I bought 2 aurum cantus ac165/50c2c to go in a 2 way active setup (morel 378s for tweets). The speakers are not made to run infinite baffle, but I figured I could make something work. I'm not quite sure dimensions yet for the door, but at first I was thinking of using those 6.5 foam speaker baffles that seal the speaker. I am doubtful that these will give them enough space or will be optimal but Id rather they be sealed in a tiny airspace then free air. I am going for sound quality in my front stage, so I want a more permanent better solution to this. Any tips on going about making an enclosure? Also to note this will be in a new chrysler 300 so I don't want to cut up the doors or anything like that. I want to keep the stock door panels completely intact. Thanks guys
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Id say go with the SP4 for 3-3.5k, simply for the reason that the SP4s will likely take it easier. The 4in VC, and metal dustcap really helps keep the sub cool at high power. Who knows which one will actually be louder though, too many variables.
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I'd use a calculator and google sketchup, you will get better results calculating it all yourself. Plus you can use options like center port or kerfing, and be able to see every part.
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Its more to a Zv4 then a Sp4, this should be pretty obvious which one he should get. two 3000w subs on 3500w or two 1750w subs on 3500w...
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Well on that note, maybe using these sealed was better anyway. I also listened to these woofers on my home system and was very surprised at how good these sound, even without using a crossover.
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I didn't want to but realized if I didn't it definitely wouldn't work out very well, so I've been looking at the door panel and it's actually shaped pretty well for what I'm thinking. I also realized the 300 has 6x9s for door speakers, which isn't really a bad thing actually cause I have to do slightly less cutting. When I do start on modifying the door I'll post pictures and such. In previous installs on other vehicles I've rushed some things, and this time around I'm going for quality. Should be nice.
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Of course Alton, you decide to go a step forward with ported I don't think I want to go as far as ported though, sealed will be enough for me. I'll take a look at the doors without panels and see what I have to work with. If it seems to much I might try a different woofer. But I've covered quite a few brands with no real good candidate for infinite baffle with the 378.
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Well I see what your saying application wise, I did see that but I assumed It wouldn't be too much trouble and it'd be worth the gains. I've never tried a 2 way active setup so I'm experimenting with it a bit. I'm also know expert on specs, I looked for fairly flat response, with similar sensitivity, and frequency response that would complete the range I need. Looking at it that way if the speakers were paired in a home application I think it would sound great. But that's from my non expert position. I keep looking at woofers and the only ones I see that seem even close to the morel 378 are also not made for Infinite baffle either. Also for cost I would be doing it all myself, and I'm willing to put time into it, I have all the tools I could possibly require. Cost I don't think is big on making it work, but I could be wrong. I see what you guys are saying, it would be easier.. But I really like this woofer. I'm down for the extra effort.
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That's actually exactly what I was thinking. Thanks for the post!
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to what extent do you think I would have to modify the door to make a simple sealed enclosure? Even if the enclosure is just big enough to get decent response I'll be happy. I was thinking of using a cardboard tube and some resin, if I can get enough length. I need to do some measurements.
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Well them not being designed for IB was more of an after thought, the rest of the specs on the woofer seemed to match up with what I wanted.I realize the foam won't be ideal, but better then free air and risk bottoming them out and having absolutely no midrange. I haven't taken the door panel off yet, so I'm not sure how hard it would be. I really like these woofers so making them work in my application would be great.