SacredTanakh

I bought a pair of 10in Neo Pro v2s in 8ohm from WoofersEtc on Amazon. When I received them the box says 8ohm, but the underside of the cone on both of them says 4ohm. I checked them with the multimeter and they both read around 3.8-4ohm. I'm pretty annoyed because I needed an 8ohm load on my amplifier. I'm most definitely not going to pay for shipping to send them back and have new ones sent because the shipping was 40$. I find it odd though that sundown managed to box up and supposedly test these speakers without noticing this. Any ideas on what happened here, and has anyone else had this happen?

Although that's true and I probably won't push them real hard to begin with it's nice to have.

Oh okay, sounds good. Thanks

Double post fail.. But to answer your question I need 8ohm because I am running the leviathan with four channels bridged for the midrange. Which will give me with plenty of headroom to work with.

I planned on ordering from SSA, as I like to support the company whenever possible. I've spent thousands here for a good reason, SSA is the best. I emailed mark and never got an answer for a shipping quote and as I wanted these for my build as soon as possible. I took the alternative. I just thought it was very odd that sundown would make a mistake like this in packaging, so I figured I'd ask if anyone else has had this happen.

Its getting Therapeutic in here haha.

I miss seeing your old F250 Definitely one of my favorite builds I've seen on here.

Thinking about using this for my doors and roof, how much is it from Tantric?

Going to drill holes for the leviathan speaker wires, but otherwise that's how it came out.

I'm sure its quite nice! Patience and attention to detail is what it takes, and unfortunately I'm lacking in the patience myself. Whats the plan for covering the box? Paint, carpet, Vinyl?

Completely agree with this, But hopefully the new leads will solve the issue. The simple fact is most people are going to push the subwoofer to its limits and that's why there is all this overbuilding to begin with. I haven't had any issues with my fully loaded Sp4s, and as long as I take care of them I don't think I will.

That is quite Impressive work, Looking forward to seeing the box when its done! I would definitely keep the sundown ns1s though, Better quality than those others.

Just to throw in my experience, I ran an 270 amp mechman with three diehard platinum PM1s, on around 4.5k and had zero to .1 voltage drop. When I had the 80amp alt I would get around .4-.8 voltage drop. I think you would be fine with 5k on 2 good quality group 31s and a new alt. Probably not zero voltage drop but I wouldn't expect it to drop a unsafe amount.

Nice subs you got there! Agree! Thanks guys, The Zcons are not mine. A good friends but I have them for awhile as their house burned down and he has no where to store them safely. They still smell like smoke actually.

First of all thanks, they look a lot better with plasti now. Second, I have always loved the 80prs and especially controlling the crossovers and such from the head unit. Not to mention I only have to buy one part to return to factory, I did as little damage as possible. The tweets I'm quite happy with, but the mid drivers are up in the air atm. I like the aurum cantus midwoofers, good quality but I think there are better choices for my build. Right now I've got my eye on the Sundown neo pro 10s.

Do It, One of the flattest yet also loudest sounding subwoofers Ive heard. The Zcons seem very peaky in comparison. Although they have that upper end sting that some go for.

Thanks Sencheezy! Im hoping In the end I can get it looking as clean as I can, I have a habit of rushing things unfortunately.. Ill post some pictures of the trunk this week, I bought some more wire so that all the wire in the back matches. Once I get that all switched out, the wire will come through the amp board to zed, so that side will look pretty clean. I haven't worked on the wall as I bought some new pieces for my other hobby and have to wait till my next check to buy the rest of my supplies for the wall. Although I will at least canter and bolt down the back and bottom plate. If I get enough back in taxes in the next few weeks, and/or I get paid for the bronco wreck Ill be buying an NS1. That's about all the updates I have atm.

Very interesting reading this thread as I am trying to find a midrange for my build. Looking forward to see what sencheezy picks out.

because you haven't helped me enough

Btw for the SSA fans here Ill be putting 2 Zcon 18s in here shortly after the box is finished just as a comparison to the Sp4s. Ill try to make a video of both for reference when that happens.

Then sell the BTO and your big amp and go smaller. Will allow you a budget to make the front stage work. Hardly need a sub even for SQ. Sure it's important, but hardly comparatively.Power is the last thing you should worry about. Mounting locations and install first. The output is where i'd like it, downgrading would cost me that. It's a better sound i'm after. I am going to at least try several new boxes for the BTL before I make any decision, or i'll never forgive myself for passing up a $250 loaded BTL 18 You are looking for, I fogret the proper term, forgive me, but smoothness. From your sub stage to your front stage. In order to do so, you need to get rid of your dip and values within your sub's output. You will only be able to do this by RTA/software, and with several enclousures. My advice, build large. For the BTL, this would be 8cubes NET, with plenty of port, 120-150 cuin. And tune according coherdinately with your vehicle's Transfer Function. When you have an eq on your sub, you want to bring down the peak with that your port will offer, usally around tuning, so that it blends in well with the rest of the frequency response of your sub's output. Obviously, this will bring down max SPL, but it will definately give you a better sound or the "sq" you are looking for. I hope this helps. Highly recommend to not use 120-150" of port, Ive used the BTL in both 120 and 150 and It does not like a lot of port area.

Finishing the outside shell and bolting it down this weekend. Used 3/4 oak for the inner layers, 3/4 mdf for the outside. The angled pieces going in the edges will be glued and then fiberglassed in. I also got the amp board and battery case plastidipped. I made a rough estimate of the interior dimensions and I have about 22 cubes to work with so far.

I vote Quentin designs and produces a subwoofer with some kind of unique cooling like whats been said above...

Definately drop the TSNS, there is a reason T3 went out of buisness.. Out of the others though I would probably go for the Team Sundown, after that DD, then DC. Just my opinion if it matters.

I was trying to get started on the box and false floor this weekend, but didn't get a chance. This week ill be buying some wire, and putting my little khc1200 by the diehard gold. Its just sitting in the house not being used so why not put it in since all the batteries are AGM. Ill be cleaning up the wiring, making everything look clean, mounting the battery case to the floor. I might get a chance to paint the case, and amp rack/board. I decided to use some 3/4 oak for the box. Interior will be coated in resin also. I was working on an few designs for the box and it looks like 13 cubes 30hz with 200in of port is what I'm shooting for. The sp4s are going to be wired at .33 ohms, which is low but I think the 3500 will do fine. Not that the amp will see .33ohm anyway. Thanks! I'm hoping so! Although Ive never heard the SP4s sealed, so the first box going in will be around 10 cubes sealed. Try it out, and see the response I get. Are you going to "Wall" this car ?? The 8s will be put in the stock 6x9 location for the moment. Getting the right drivers for the job is a bigger decision then I had anticipated. If I'm not happy with one 8 ill fiberglass the doors and do a 6.5 and an 8 or 10. So indecisive at this point, so many options. :/ Changed my mind with sealed, the air pressure of ported will be missed too much. The car will eventually be walled but for now a false floor with a large ported enclosure will be built inside the car, it will all be bolted down. Since the enclosure will fill up most of the back I figure I might as well make removable beauty panels to seal off the back. Will give me a chance to see how the car does with a basic removable wall. I'm hoping the oak will cut the weight down enough that the suspension wont be too much of an issue at this stage.