onebadmonte

The subs are optimized for home use. There are better parameters for the smaller confines of a car. As for tips, do everything I did, but do it better. The best thing you can do is make an ultra rigid baffle.

It connects to power. I think it goes to the power antenna output of the radio.

I've got the MS8. It makes my crap speakers sound like angels singing. Setup is a breeze and the 5 min setup thing is no joke. Well worth the $800. I've seen them on other forums for around $600 NIB shipped. Back in July amazon had a fluke and sold them for $435 shipped.

Go with the biggest ones you can afford and fit. Also e-mail them and let them know they are going in a car so the sub can be optimized for car audio use. Good luck.

Here's a flyer.

Another last minute posting by yours truly. So, is anybody going?

Bummer man. Remember all work and no play makes inkfx a dull boy. Take a break every once and a while. I'll make sure to post some pics of anything worth while. Enjoy the weekend.

Bummer. I'll be there as a spectator. My system is down and out as I try to put some mid-basses in the doors. :| Wonk wonk wonk.

Welcome back. Here's to new beginnings.

Some of those rack amps have both 1/4" and XLR connections. Depending out the output voltage of your pre-amp you might be safe with and RCA to XLR adapter. If your pre-amp doesn't have enough voltage output then you might have to use a line driver. Usually those will have an RCA input and XLR out. Good luck.

Yes.

I agree with Don, a sub forum would be nice.

Thanks. It sounds like some effort. It's hard to get any appreciation for an IB install, there's more to it than just a baffle. Thanks. It's only 18 watts. It'll get loud, but I clip the signal before the loudness gets unbearable. I'll be going back to real amps when I get the fronts upgraded.

Finally got a little bit of free time Saturday afternoon. I did a mad thrash to get this in for a little get together with some pals. Here is a mock up shot. I'm taking out the amps powering the inside speakers and using the amp built in the MS8 to power them instead. It wouldn't be a mad thrash with out a little south Texas rain in the mix. I had to move the whole operation into the garage. With the amps out and the MS8 in place it was just a matter of wiring things up. Here is the finished product. The setup is pretty straight forward. First is the sub. It'll ask how many outputs you're going to use. Then you'll set a subsonic filter frequency, then a subsonic filter slope. After that you'll set the low pass crossover frequency and slope. Then you'll setup the front, center if applicable and rear speakers in similar fashion. From there you'll assign which output will run what speaker. After that you'll calibrate the system with the groovy headphone/microphones. A quick tone will play from each speaker. You'll do this for all the seating positions you'll want to setup. I did the driver and passenger. The sound? Pretty impressive. I finally got a decent center stage. Mind you I'm running 3-1/2" co-ax in the stock/dash location. My problem has been the the gauge cluster blocks the driver's side speaker, focusing the sound directly to my left ear. Another issue the MS8 solved is my rear fill. Before the rear speakers overpowered the front stage. Now the rear speakers come in softly. All in all, I'm pretty happy with what the MS8 has been able to do with my setup. I can't wait to step up to a proper front stage. (wink, wink) Guess what's next. Viva la old school. Peace.

A 15" Tempest X from Exodus Audio or a 15" or 18" Fi Q will suit you. If you can find them an Ascendant Audio Avalanche or Adire Audio Tumult will work as well. Good luck with your project. l

Thanks for putting the effort into this BigJon. If there is anyway I can help let me know. I read somewhere about that new Towncar you picked up. Sad to hear the Navigator go. It sounded very good when I heard it.

I am looking to rebuild/convert my CS130 alternator to a high amperage unit. This is for the car and system listed in my sig. What are the limits this case can handle. I came across a 200 amp stator. The biggest rotor I've come across is 140 amp. Will these work together. To go along with this I was thinking about using a heavy duty Delco voltage regulator set at 14.7v, and a Delco rectifier with six 70 amp avalanche diodes. Any thoughts of what the output of this combo would be? Should I get a smaller pulley as well? Thanks.

Very nice. That is some big power going into it. Sounds like a fun project with positive results. I like that it's not tuned ridiculously high. Probably sounds pretty good with today's pop music. Cool.

First, thanks to everyone for the positive support. To all those who have heard the system and have taken the time to chime in with positive words, thank you. UPDATES! Fi nally. The sound system is doing fine. The subs are fully broken in. I'm metering around 134ish around 21Hz. Next on the things to do list is upgrade the SQ a bit. What better way to do that than throw some money at the problem. I'm going to take a different approach than what everyone is used to around here. Since my fiber glassing skills are non-existent that puts those high end Focals back on the shelf. I'm going to use electronic processing to make my Powerbass and MTX mids and highs sound like angels singing. What better processor to use than one of these: A little packaging action. To add to the custom feel I had JBL color match all of there production MS8 processors to match General Motor's metallic silver color used on 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cierra's. Not really. That's how they come. Lucky me. Power and input shot. This unit accepts both high and low level inputs. Outputs. This unit also has a built in amp that'll shoot out 18 watts at 4 ohm and 30 watts at 2 ohms. Nice. These headphones are actually the microphone. During the setup you sit in the listening position wearing these while the processor plays tones to evaluate the acoustical environment and make necessary adjustment. Adjustments are made via this little screen and remote. Stay tuned for the install.

E-mail Fi about using these subs in a car. In another thread Fi mentions the possibility of using a different coil to combat too much rise in the impedance curve. See HERE.

Wasn't this one in one of those Disney cartoons?

Are the layers of MLV and CCF glued together? Or are they always separate and floating? Also pic 27 shows a majority of the floor covered with the factory deadener. Can the CCF and the MLV be put over the factory deadener and just fill any exposed sheet metal with CLD tiles? Were any CLD tiles used on the doors? Any areas of the door one should pay attention to? Thanks.

Here are some pics of my Wheely King Monster Truck. I'm running the stock electronics. I've got a crawler conversion in it. Most noticeable are the Juggernaut rims and tires. I narrowed the rims by cutting the inner bead mount of the rim, reversed it and slipped it back over the rim shell. This also gave me the clearance needed around the knuckle. I opted to leave the steering stock for a more scale appearance. I working on some adapters to mount the wheels. Let me know what you think.

Here are some pics of my truck with some skinny tractor style tires on some home-brewed beadlocks. The tires are 6 inches tall and and inch wide. I call this look Florida Mud.

That's some sexy stuff. Welcome to the forum.