onebadmonte

The voice of reason has spoken. Thank you for your wisdom, oh mighty voice. I shall continue my voyage with a sample request. My findings shall be posted here for all to see. All hail the mighty voice of reason. (sorry bro I'm having a weird morning. thanks for the insight.)

Hey, what's up everybody? So, I've got this build going: My Build I'm working on the battery rack and would like to get some thoughts on this design I've got. I've changed it up a little bit from what I had in my build. Let me know what you think, what you'd change, maybe what some of you have done or are doing now. Now some pics: Here is deal. Chevy Suburban with the batteries between the frame rails where the spare tire would be. Here we are looking down on the setup. Looking from the bottom up. Here is a close up of the hanger. The tangerine pieces are 1/4" plate. The gray angles are 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" by 1/8" thick angle irons. The hangers are held in place to the frame rails with two 1/2" bolts on the side and a 3/4 bolt through the bottom of the frame rail. Here is a close up from the bottom up. The hangers attach to the bottom of the battery rack with four 1/2" bolts per side. Let me know what you guys think.

Gracias (Thanks)

Here we go fellas, part two, The final assembly of the battery rack. Here I'm prepping the center rails putting some 9/16" holes at the ends. A little story about this drill press. Pops got it for free from a shop he used to work at. It sat in the garage for 20 years unused. Pops said it needed a new motor, he let me have it. Just for laughs I plugged it in. Snap, it works. Let Pops know, now he needs a drill press. Here I'm laying out the carriage bolt pad centers. I did two angle irons at a time to make sure they line up properly. Here is a close-up so you can see my alignment marks. I also put an indicator at the end of the angle iron to make sure I don't mix them up. This is the center section tack welded together. Here I am laying out the alignment marks for the center section on the battery base. To keep things simple I added up my measurements to I can use a ruler and mark everything in one shot. The finished frames ready to be welded. A couple test fit shots.

Real life progress, yay. I continued work on the battery rack again today. I made the carriage bolt pads. I started off with 4" x 2", 1/8" thick steel strip. I will be putting a square hole in the center of this piece. Here's how I did it. The workpiece, trimmed and ready for drilling. I used work's bada$$ Bridgeport Mill and vise setup to put a 1/4" pilot hole first I followed that up with a 1/2" drill Here I verified the size of the square on the carriage bolt. Get your 3-D glasses on. Here I scribed out the square that I'll cut out. Just wait till you get a load of how I pull this off. That's right, an effing jigsaw. Dios mio! (My goodness!) What a hack job. Not to worry I can fix it. A little file action, and presto change-o, square hole. Test fit. Finished product. Stay tuned for part two of this update.

Groovy basket. Looks like the love child of the standard 4 spoke basket and the TC sounds basket.

Thanks fellas. Still got a ton of work to do, but definitely looking forward to hearing the results.

Thanks for noticing.

Small signs of progress. I updated the battery rack CAD a bit. I think this is going to work better than what I had before. Here is a shot from the top. I added the battery hold downs, and detailed the whole assembly with some hardware. From the bottom looking up. Here is a shot of the hanger from the bottom up. You can see some of the hardware I'll be using. One last one of the hanger from the top down. Now some progress in the real world. This one is me testing the strength of the angle irons that I'll be using. My cutting rig. The rack coming together. This is how I handled the corners. I tacked them together, I'll have a friend with a bigger welder finish them off. Plus he's a better welder than me. o_o

voted

Awe, come on man. Get up and help. Don't just sit there and watch the train wreck.

Thanks. I hope so, we're talking just over 550lbs worth of batteries.

Thanks. The batteries will assemble onto the rack, then the whole setup will be lifted into place and secured onto the frame with the mentioned bolts. I went with bolt in for serviceability. Once it's all bolted together the batteries will not come out.

voted.

We'll work something out once it's all done up and fitting right.

Why thank you, and a happy valentine's to you too. o_o

Hey everybody! Not much got done in the real world today, but tons got done virtually. Hmm, that second part didn't come out quite right..... Any who, here is a little CAD action, and I ain't talking about cardboard and duct tape here. Here is a 3-D CAD model of a deka 9a31 Frame rails. Really! Here we go. Starting to make sense? Battery tray anyone? Tangerine supports? WTF? The semi-complete assembly. How about some batteries to complete the picture. A look from the bottom up. Chime in now or forever hold your piece.

Thanks. A little secret, I built the box before I started the build log. Don't tell anyone. Nuts huh? Audiosavings.com was dang near giving them away. I couldn't resist. You got to come over and check it out. I'd have to cut and splice the wire if I ever need the sub out for a re-cone. As for the port being angled it's actually a back loaded horn design. Thanks. Sure. Drop a pm sometime. Thanks LOL Bahahaha! Wife said the exact same thing when she saw it.

I've seen people do pretty good with white ports. Those red ports are pretty mean as well. I'm not sure how my grey port will do. o_o I guess I'll have to rely on 10 kilo-watts to pick up the rest of the slack.

Glad to here you're doing better. Can't wait to hear the new Lincoln.

What's up everybody? Not much here, just got some work done on the box. With regards to tools, I got what I got and that's that. Working solo it's a pain trying to manage a full sheet of MDF on a wienie tablesaw. As it happens the cargo area of my Suburban measures 49" wide. Sheets of MDF in this area come in a 49" width. I had my box designed to a 49" width. This way I had the guys at the local Home Depot cross cut the sheet to the length I needed with their fancy panel saw. The guys were pretty cool about cutting the wood for me after I told them what I was doing. They thought I was nuts though. I used my table saw for the finish cuts and all the angle cuts. Here are some pics of what I got. I opted to paint the inside of the box plain ass boring grey. I have no creativity. I used some threaded inserts as a foundation to run some bolts through the wood for wiring. Here is the wires I ran through the port. Double runs of 8 gauge wire, because I can. So far so good, more on the way.

Where are you?

102 lbs, oh my. I wonder what's the story with them using that basket. I guess the drama was resolved. Any who, pretty impressive for a quick build.

I'm in the works of a 3k Watt build. This a first for me. I've been scouring the net for the best deals on the parts required for such a build. Some of those deals have been once in a life time deals, but every once and a while there is one that I can share. This is one of those. It's hard to imagine Monster Cable products and good deal in the same sentence, but it's true. Normally one is left to his own devices when passing 1/0 gauge cable through sheet metal. I picked these up from Amazon.com My link I really couldn't find any dimensional info on them, so I took a gamble in hopes they'd work with my 1/0 radaflex welding cable. Luckily they sinched down on my cable no problem. They advertise corrosion resistant, which means plastic. I'd avoid putting them any closer than 8 inches to any exhaust components. Here are some pics. Fully compressed the inside diameter measured .570" at the smallest diameter and .620 at the largest diameter. Overall length was about 1.650" give or take. For the through hole I recommend a 1" hole saw. A little filing might be required. The hex on the main body is just over 1.250" Max diameter through the main body is .750" The compression nut measured just over 1.250" like the main body. The through hole on the compression nut measured .725" a bit smaller than the through hole on the main body. Looks like there is enough material on it that you could file some off if you needed it to be a bit bigger. Here is some info not pictured. Jam Nut Dims: Thickness .270" Hex Size across the flats 1.387" Max panel thickness this item can be used on is .250" Thanks for looking.