onebadmonte

See what I mean, about the whole having to ram ideas into people's heads. Thanks for taking the time Nick. There are a few of us here who appreciate and enjoy reading the inside info.

In this day and age of been there done that nothing is really special. Even more so for use who roam this online world. This comment ^^^ reminds me of a signature someone quoted in their sig: Don't worry about people stealing your ideas. If your ideas are any good, you'll have to ram them down people's throats. Howard Aiken.

If the enclosure is too big, couldn't you bottom out your subs? Sounds like someone's been taking advice from Kryptonitewhite. and and and Don't be offended it's just a joke.

I've got a pair of DD9515g. I got them because they are good subs and I liked what I heard when demoing other users cars. Why these over Fi, SSA, or Incriminator Audio? I bought mine on the cheap, NIB, off some guy on Craigslist strapped for cash. Muahahahahah!

Bahahah. Maybe on a quiet day. Thanks. Will do thanks. I appreciate the kind words, thanks.

Most would go with a small sealed enclosure or maybe and aperiodic enclosure, but those require a tool like the woofer tester 2 to tune. Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. Just wait till be alt bracket install. I think it'll put a grin on your face.

Nice pics. Show looks like a good time.

opps, dbl poast.

Okay, little update today. I'm wrapping up the front stage today by getting in my kick panels. Here is the drivers side. These fit nice but I still had to tweek them a bit to get them to fit right. First I had to trim back the leading edge of the hood release opening to clear the handle. Secondly I trimmed round the pivot opening. It was too tight around this area to get the panel seated properly. Lastly here is the passenger side kick panel in place. The wires for the front stage have been run as well. Getting there.

x2 Awe sh!t this is my build log! Back to work.

Yep, you heard right. You know, I still have mixed feeling about this, and not the feel good warm fuzzy kind. I'm going to have to keep an eye on this whole area. With so many alts and the batteries being sensitive to over voltage charging, I get the feeling I'm playing with fire. All I can do is keep my voltage in check and keep an eye for ballooning batteries. While I'm there I might as well check for green and white flakes on the terminals. This stuff was never meant to last forever. Glad the link helps. The door panel covers the holes pretty well. It was a tight squeeze. I'm happy with the way it looks. Sad to say but I bought these mids based on internet hype and cost. I don't doubt they'll get the job done. I'm just saying this is where the internet has taken this hobby. I think this is why so many shop owners and sales people have attitude. Will do. Thanks. x2, otherwise cancellation(?) will eat up your midbass. The horse leads the cart. I'll let the music show me what panels need deadening. Don't worry my labor is free to me. As for saying good bye to all my mid-bass, take it easy there chicken little the mid-bass isn't disappearing. First and foremost the door panel will separate the front wave from the rear wave. Cancellations solved. Deadener will help. I can't just stick the stuff all willie nillie and think I did it right. I know there are guidelines, I just prefer to play some music to see and hear what panels are going to be trouble some. The ultimate would be to put some real enclosure behind these mofo's. I would but there's the power window track in the way. For the most part speakers like this are designed to be installed in leaky doors and still perform. It's a pick your battles sort of thing. I chose to want to keep everything behind the stock panels. Visually I don't want this thing to look as loud as it really is. I think a semi-stealth install will help me pull this off. The bass output is what's going to melt peoples faces off when I drop the knob in this thing. The mid-basses are for when I'm driving to work in the morning listening to Band of Skulls with the volume 1/4 up. Sorry for being long winded, but when the words want to flow you just go with it.

Here we go the final stage of the doors. Before you tackle a project like this it's good to have all your nuts and bolts ready to go. I recommend a stash of 8-32s, 10-32s, and some 1/4-20 bolts. For the smaller sizes I recommend starting off with 1" long fully threaded. That way you can cut them to the length you need. The 1/4-20 I buy 1" and 3" fully threaded. Usually the Home Depot has the 3" fully threaded mixed with the partially threaded. Keep an eye out for these. Here is a pic of my 8-32 box. This is the door prepped. You can see the mounting points and the hack cut job I did for the upper mid-bass. o_o Here is the base mounted up in place. I'm using a couple of flat head screws since one of them will be under the actual mounting of the speaker and the second because I got carried away and counter sunk the wrong hole first time around. Three of the four screws hold down the base. The fourth upper screw will hold down both the base and the intermediate base. The screws holding down the upper mid-bass ( 2" long 8-32s) will go through the intermediate base and thread into the inserts in the base. The first driver in place. A little close up action of the hardware. I went over board and used some lock washers under the 8-32s holding the mid-bass down. Here is the intermediate base installed, currently held in place by the upper 1/4-20 bolt. Before I get the upper mid-bass in I have to take care of this little gap. First a little foil paper. And a generous serving of 200mph duct tap. Fixed! In my best Walter Sobchak voice: "Our f%ck!n’ troubles are over Dude." Mid-bass installed. Bam! Driver side door finished. Passenger side door. Effing progress man!

Thanks for all the support fellas. For those wondering about that crazy rivet tool I used here is some info. I picked it up from Harbor Freight. The tool itself kicks @ss. The included rivnuts, not so much. I picked up better ones from Mc Master Carr. Sorry no links for those since the Mc Master Carr site is flash or something like it so direct links don"t work. Any who, here are some links. Threaded Rivet Tool Here are the Mc Master Carr part numbers for the ones I use. Thread size 8-32 P/N 95105A123 Thread size 10-24 P/N 95105A127 Thread size 1/4-20 P/N 95105A143 Just plug in these part numbers into their search line and it'll take you directly to them.

What's up everybody? I got a little tired of working on the battery rack so I focused my efforts back on the front stage. Last I left things I had some pods roughed out. I glued the required layers together and started off by drilling some holes for the threaded inserts. I followed up by sanding the pods to the final profile. Here is a pic of my make shift sander. Before I go any further I figure I owe you guys a shot of the man behind the curtain. Also safety first. I used a primer on these pods for porous surfaces. Nothing fancy, just your standard issue Killz brand home exterior/interior primer. This was followed up with a couple coats of grey paint. As the paint dries. I worked on how I would mount these pods to the doors. Like all good mounts we start with a hole. The follow up is what makes the difference. In this case I fell back on my classic rivnut follow up. A classy way to put threads in sheet metal. Now we're talking. Prepping the wires. More on the way.

I don't know man. When you look at the car as a whole there's copper and aluminum wires. Steel bolts with various plating's. An iron block, aluminum heads and God knows what else. All this lives in harmony for about three years before the first sign of a rust spot or green and white flakes. As long as all the electrical connections are tight with no arching it'll be a while before anything turns green and white. I'm not saying it wont happen, because it will. At this point I'd question the effort versus the time this will be here. I think I'm going to proceed as is taking note of any excess corrosion/oxidation and how long till it set in.

Good looking install. I don't know if you've done this but a nice alt upgrade for those truck is switching over to the AD244 alt that came on later model truck and suburbans up to 2005 I think. They are good for 100 amps at idle and 145 at speed.

Most common is Aluminum 6061-T6. Very good all around for welding, machining, and chewing on. If you check out the site mc master carr they have a guide on material explaining the different grades of aluminum with pro's and con's. Sorry no link, the site is build using flash or something so direct links never work. Do a little digging and you'll find what you need there. Good luck.

Nice! Now get to building. The white stuff you see around the spiders is probably a little off gassing between the CA adhesive and the activator they use to cure it. Sometimes that stuff off gasses a bit and leaves a white residue. A couple of shaving on the exterior shouldn't really affect much. Like someone said it's hard to keep that sh$t off with such strong magnets. Good luck with the build.

Looking good! Now get that amp in and show that woofer who's boss.

I'm still not convinced on big diesel trucks. The mileage doesn't offset the fuel cost difference. The performance potential is there, but the required funds and skills to pull it off is ridiculous. To be honest, I really don't need the capability of such a vehicle. I've got a co-worker with one, a f-250. He's not really mechanically inclined, but then some of the stuff that has gone out on his truck I don't think I try to take care of myself in the drive way. The ring gear gave out and had to have it replaced. Parts and labor scratched $2k. The truck had just over 100k miles and the only heavy towing he did was a 20ft boat twice a month during the summer months. He also had trouble when he had his fuel filter replaced. It wasn't done right and the thing leaked diesel on to the clutch. Although not his fault he did get the shop to pay for it all. Needless to say the shop was out about $3k in parts and labor. Unfortunately my co-worked had to go through this hassle which dragged on for a couple of weeks. We lived near each other so I was giving him rides hear and there. Heck even oil changes are nuts. 15qts of synthetic don't come cheap. These trucks are work horses meant to make money and be written off on business taxes. For the average joe these are endless money pits. Don't get drawn into the hype. A very small few might pull off owning one of these trucks on the cheap, but that is a rare rare occurrence. Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks. Most of my efforts have focused on packaging and strength. I haven't really put much though on corrosion prevention. I can imagine the aluminum bars will eventually have some of that white flakey stuff. In how long, I don't know. I can anodize the bars black and just sand the area where the bars electrically contact the batteries. What's your take? WWouthopuD? One step at a time. That's all it takes.

Haha, classic Fi. Showing up unannounced, but ready to party. Pics or ban.

Cool story bro. No sarcasm. It was a nice read with a moderate amount of nut hugging. Okay, that was a little sarcastic at the end there. Congrats on your runs. I've dabbled in competing and can relate to your excitement.

I'm going to have to go on a diet just to balance out all the weight I'm adding on to the Suburban. The tools I have here at home are so so. The tools at work are what make dreams come true. Sweet, when ever you get a chance shoot a link via PM. I'd like to check them out. Thanks.

This was a good Monday. Work went by smoothly. Picked up the little ones, no hassles there. Got my chores done with time to spare. How about a little progress? Nothing major today, just made some battery links. Before going too far I figured I do some work in the virtual world. This is what I came up with. Bare with me as it's a little incomplete since I don't have the cables modeled up. I'll get those in soon. Here we go. Not only do I have a little band saw, I've also got a little drill press. I picked up a 12ft bar of 6061-T6 Aluminum locally. It measures 3/8" by 1-1/2", this should be enough to get the job done. I used work's bad a$$ cold saw to make short work of cutting the bar down to the strips I needed. Starting off small here with a 1/8" pilot hole. Now were cooking. Stepped it up to a 13/32" drill. The studs on the batteries are 3/8-16 so the 13/32" drill will give me a little wiggle room. Ahhh, what a stringy mess. The details are where it's at fellas. Take a little pride in what you do and give the little extra effort to debur your holes with a good quality counter sink. Nuff said. OMG! Look at what the cat coughed up. o_o Look at that, just like in the computer.