codester

No more picture updates yet, been busy with life lately figuring out where I should go to school and for what. Anyways on a more exciting note, I went to the shop and didnt want to get all dusty sanding as I was going out right away. and wanted so bad to hear the Icons so I test fitted them in the box, wired em up quick to four ohm, backed my truck into the shop and hooked up the subs to my Kicker kx700.5, so only getting about 100rms per sub and bumped them for a bit, wow the amount of air those things move with only 100rms is crazy, im very excited to hear them on some real power. Hoping to rip everything out of the back of my truck this weekend and get wiring and some deadening done. will upload more pics as I make progress, Also on a side note, will I be alright making a Y in the remote wire for 2 amps vs using a relay? Will be running a Crescendo BC2000d (if it ever gets here ) and probably my Kicker KX600.4.

So Skip the mdf and make a fibreglass layer bonded right to the metal, just making the roof thicker and more rigid than the crappy tin roof? Or are you saying have metal, then glue on kerfed mdf, then fibreglass the bottom (inside) of the mdf on the inside then head liner?

Ok Thanks, so the fibreglass would obviously go on top of the mdf, between the mdf and the head liner? Would that stop head liner slap or should I use something in-between fibreglass and head liner? (insulation, dynomat or another suggestion?)

I guess you'd get more strength then. Oh well next build.

Thanks for the tip, didn't even think of that. Dowels are a good quarter inch from touching at any point so I don't think I'll have a problem. The port is another 1.5" long. Thanks for suggestions

The Start of the box build. This is only the third box i've built so its gonna be far from perfect, previous ones were for a Kicker CVR 12" and a IA I10" so nothing to this extent, so far i'm happy with how its turning out. These pictures are before hours of sanding to get joints perfect and clean up extra PL Premium. Thanks for looking I know holes aren't perfect, thought I had a circle jig but I didnt and wanted to get the top on so i freehanded it with a jigsaw, it turned out alright. That's where I left it last night, will be putting on top baffle and test fitting subs tonight. Probably will rock guard the whole box except the port and top baffle, then will paint the top and port blue to match truck and then make a black vinyl beauty panel for top similar to the design. Let me know what you think,

Please forgive my picture sizes. if someone could give advice as to how to resize that would be great. Anyways this is one of my Icons next to a 12" type R. 40 feet of KnuKonceptz OFC 0 guage. Also got a fuse holder, RCA's etc. Its really nice stuff. My Speaker amp, Don't know where I will mount it yet but Ill find a spot.

This Is a pic of my box design, only difference is it will be double baffled with possibly a vinyl beauty panel. (Id be happy if mine turned out half as nice as Swifts) Was really happy with Ram Designs, replied fast and had the design in 3 days, was over a weekend so was very impressed.

This is the most helpful post ive read on the DD-1, I was dumb and blew the money on one. Its got some uses but not many because music also has more distortion than a sine wave. I can set my gains with the DD1 on sine waves but as soon as I put on music to check it, its showing distortion. Only really thing ive liked it for is for testing songs to see which have a lot of inaudible distortion. Also makes you look more professional when you pull out it to tune someone's system. Although I just tune it by ear any ways. It can also show one's ignorance. The thing is most people that are hiring someone to do an install are ignorant, not saying you should spout out but when you don't work at a shop and they want to know they are in good hands it always helps to have something to show that at least looks professional and makes them feel better about leaving their vehicle with you. This is the most helpful post ive read on the DD-1, I was dumb and blew the money on one. Its got some uses but not many because music also has more distortion than a sine wave. I can set my gains with the DD1 on sine waves but as soon as I put on music to check it, its showing distortion. Only really thing ive liked it for is for testing songs to see which have a lot of inaudible distortion. Also makes you look more professional when you pull out it to tune someone's system. Although I just tune it by ear any ways. It can also show one's ignorance. The thing is most people that are hiring someone to do an install are ignorant, not saying you should spout out but when you don't work at a shop and they want to know they are in good hands it always helps to have something to show that at least looks professional and makes them feel better about leaving their vehicle with you. If they ask about something give them an explanation, plain and simple. Ya that's how I like to be treated. No BS just facts

This is the most helpful post ive read on the DD-1, I was dumb and blew the money on one. Its got some uses but not many because music also has more distortion than a sine wave. I can set my gains with the DD1 on sine waves but as soon as I put on music to check it, its showing distortion. Only really thing ive liked it for is for testing songs to see which have a lot of inaudible distortion. Also makes you look more professional when you pull out it to tune someone's system. Although I just tune it by ear any ways. It can also show one's ignorance. The thing is most people that are hiring someone to do an install are ignorant, not saying you should spout out but when you don't work at a shop and they want to know they are in good hands it always helps to have something to show that at least looks professional and makes them feel better about leaving their vehicle with you.

This is the most helpful post ive read on the DD-1, I was dumb and blew the money on one. Its got some uses but not many because music also has more distortion than a sine wave. I can set my gains with the DD1 on sine waves but as soon as I put on music to check it, its showing distortion. Only really thing ive liked it for is for testing songs to see which have a lot of inaudible distortion. Also makes you look more professional when you pull out it to tune someone's system. Although I just tune it by ear any ways. Actually doesn't work for that either. The algorithm shows any non-excitation frequency as distortion since it isn't truly even measuring THD. As for the other uses you think it has, I am interested but I doubt you'll like my retort. OK I understand, Least it looks good in my toolbox, and no M5 I respect your knowledge and have learned a great deal from reading your posts. Would love some of your knowledge on front stages for my build.

This is the most helpful post ive read on the DD-1, I was dumb and blew the money on one. Its got some uses but not many because music also has more distortion than a sine wave. I can set my gains with the DD1 on sine waves but as soon as I put on music to check it, its showing distortion. Only really thing ive liked it for is for testing songs to see which have a lot of inaudible distortion. Also makes you look more professional when you pull out it to tune someone's system. Although I just tune it by ear any ways.

Sure address is 1200 Trans Canada Hwy Salmon Arm BC V1E 1T1. If you wouldn't mind getting a price on for the 15" shipped and then a second price for both the 15" and 12" shipped? Thanks

Id love the 15" but shipping to Canada is expensive! My sis needs a bigger sub now. If you don't mind shipping to Canada let me know (would pay some extra shipping).

No it already figures a top on the box the baffle is just the second layer so just the .75. I don't know which box. I like the lows so I'd go for a lower tune like 32hz but if you want it to get loud and more SPL then a tune around 35hz would give u good lows but more output.

The reason you got a different tuning is because you set your baffle to 1.5 instead of .75. That looks good though if its within the subs specs. Someone else with more experience will hopefully comment but looks good to me if you fix baffle thickness.

15"- .75" (bottom)= 14.25- 1.5" (top and one extra baffle)= 12.75" and common walls depends on port orientation. for your first design with port in middle it would be 2 common walls but with port on side it would be 3 common walls (top, bottom and one side. Port area is generally recommended around 12-16" per cubic foot. (Is a lot of debate but that seems to be most common recommendation. For the dimensions you have with an extra baffle I think a side L port would work best. but I would make the port 12.75" high by 4" wide. then a port length of either 18" straight port (35.5hz tuning approx) or else if you want lower tuning just lengthen port and make a bend if you go over 20" to give a continuous 4" wide port. for example 19"= 35hz, 20"=34.5hz etc dropping by approx .5hz per inch.

*area

Port height isn't quite right. Should be 12.75". Also port are is a little on the small side. Will be a little better with the added .25". Also it will just be a straight port becausr the length of your port is short enough that you don't need to do a L port.

Usually for a more Spl orientated build tuning around 35hz and up is more desirable. Tuning to 32hz would give you more Low end but would not have quite the output. I also Second getting Ryan at Ramdesigns to design you a box. He takes all perimeters into affect and gives you a cut list and also a 3d model which really helps visualize the box during building. Also for around $25 +/- $5 it wont break the bank, and will give you a better chance of it turning out how you want it.

If you don't get one from DC check out Mike Singer. I just ordered one for my 03 dodge Dakota and he answered all my questions right away. Super helpful and nice. Also price points very good, lifetime warranty and his alts have no bad feedback. So far I'm very happy.

Hi, Im about to start a build in my 2003 Dodge Dakota, Will be running a Crescendo BC2000D to two 15" SSA ICONS and a Rockford T15004 to a set of Hertz HSK components and probably 2 8" or 10" Crescendo Mids. Have an XS Power D2700 so far just wondering if at this point getting A 250 amp Singer alternator or a second battery ex XP2000 or XP2500 would give me less voltage drop or if its even necessary with that power? All wiring is Knukonceptz Kolosses 1/0 Gauge 1 run - one run +. Also any advice on personal experience with people running Crescendo mids along with a high end component set? Thanks,

Wow feel dumb now lol. Guess I didnt research them much. K never mind on that question. I figure the hertz will sound even better as soon as I give them more power, only giving them around 40rms now. As for battery or alt? Which would I see greatest gain from as far as limiting voltage drop? Will be getting another battery in future just wanna know if a h/o alt and my xs d2700 will be better on 2500 rms than a d2700 and a xp3000

I had this issue as well, I asked Mark and he told me it was the weight of the order was too much, I ended up splitting up the order and it was fine. Contacting Mark or Aaron would probably be your best bet.

I just received two 15" SSA icons today and will be running them on a crescendo bc2000d in my Dakota. I'm waiting for box design and I'll start a build log and tell u how I like them. The build quality on them looks top notch and mark and Aaron are awesome. Customer service is second to none! SSA FTW