Quentin Jarrell

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009V2XX/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1368044918&sr=8-3π=SL75 Then all u need is a RCA to 3.5mm adapter

Send a masseuse to ur house tomorrow to get her rub down. (No pun intended)

About the same time my mom went stupid. One day she's fine then the next she's crazy. She takes a couple pills a day and haven't had any issues in about 6 years.

She's in her late 30's early 40's?

Better get her hormones checked out.

Don't use a spiral bit with a cheap router that isn't a plung router. The spiral bits are fragile. You will just wind up snapping it off. I do t understand about cutting the hole.

Ur getting too old for that kinky shit.

There's ur problem. Keep it in the bedroom.

Tell er to get there faster and you won't be so wore out.

here I helped you out a bit. All enclosures are 1.5 cubic feet and power is 2,000 watts. (another 500 watts will just give all a little more gain) It's pretty obvious which route to go.

yea above tuning input total volume. Then to the right click plot and enter total power that will be used

Now, adjust the box volumes to what will fit under your seat. And under the plot menu input whatever power you will be running to each set up

download winISD. You can input both drivers you want to use and compare both set ups

Head phones and IR repeater

. Depending on enclosure volume and tuning. And power being applied. This has been gone over already and I have posted results of two eights compared to one 12 using the same power. You can not look at a few specs and make assumptions about output.

1 more question; if the Depth Capacity (Inches) for the router = 1.25, will it work on a double front baffle (1.5inches) because of the extra length of the router bit. because i'd like to make my passes after the box is built, where if i cant get that extra depth from the router bit, i'd have to cut the hole before making my box Always use a spiral bit. You want down cut to push chips away from you when the router is not mounted on a table and up cut when the router is mounted on a table. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11263&site=ROCKLER That one is 3 1/2 inches long plenty of length for 2 to 2 1/2 inches of material. NEVER cut the material in one pass. Make multiple passes until you get to your desired depth.

Looks to be a cool little unit. Appears you can, via a laptop, adjust power through out the passband to limit over excursion.

Joel Butler is Da man.

http://www.slsloudspeakers.com/SLS%20Audio%20D-fend%20Energy%20Damping%20Speaker%20Protection%20Circuit.htm

NO SHIT. Your problem is you haven't a clue what you are doing and are arguing with someone that has designed and built thousands of enclosures. And have built well over 100 enclosures for mustangs. All bodies both coupe and convertible. I have not one time told you to build a bigger box. BECAUSE I KNOW WHAT WILL OR NOT FIT IN A CONVERTIBLE MUSTANG. And two of those subs in a proper box ain't gonna fit. Now if you have enough sense to use someone else's knowledge and experience to your advantage you will get some cardboard and make the largest box that you can put in and remove and ill model a box for you.

You need to model what you have now and assess what you are willing to give up for the gain in output you want. normally when building to gain output you will gain a larger ripple in the passband however the passband will be narrower than one with less ripple.

As already been said multiple times here and your other threads the boxes are no where near ideal. As I have said before sell the kickers and buy ONE high xmax 12 Preferably something along the lines of an Xcon, and have a proper box built with proper port area.

Get two way Motons