Quentin Jarrell

No software is gonna be any help at all if you don't know what you are doing. Buy a copy of loudspeaker cookbook and learn why what to do and you'll end up be much more helpful to your customers.

Stick it in the ash tray or glove box. Whenever you need to run or demo just give it a twist.

What will fit will greatly depend on the year truck and the installation skills of the builder.

The gain on the amp is to match the amps voltage input with the output of the headunit. The rms rating on the amp is rated based on the power that the rails on the amp can generate. When you crank the gain too much it causes the amp can not keep up causing the output signal to be destorted. Almost all subs are rated at 70%BL which relates to 20 percent distortion. And if you are running a high xmax sub like 30mm or so you are actually getting into the 40-50% distortion realm as nearly all 8 inch spiders being used today hit 20% distortion at around 18mm. For reference 20% distortion is what is considered becoming audible. However most people have these high xmax subs and never complain about any audible noise which can be clearly be seen by having the driver tested on a Klippel analyzer. What does this mean? It means that most people's consent of distortion greatly veary and what a lot of engineers will tell you that distortion can actually be a good thing. In fact distortion is a tually purposely induced in some drivers, for example guitar amps. Where I am going with this is, you would have to seriously clip a sub into distortion to have it audible. More than likely you are just driving the sub past its mechanical limits which is directly related to power which will change greatly depending on the enclosure volume and tuning.

Ur car cable throttle right? Just steal a throttle control off of one of those 18 wheelers.

Would have been a WHOLE lot easier to just put a disc brake on the driveshaft.

I hope you compensated for bed liner thickness.

Just the letters

They forgot to tell you the salary is in Yen and not Euro's.

Buy your subs used from a reputable member here. New subs will not warrantee coils which is really the only thing will malfunction and is normally caused by user error. I do believe BigJon has some XCONs for sale. As far as amp I would do crescendo if they are in stock as they would be the cheaper buy. If you really do not want used subs Im partial to Incriminator, and their lead time is much much less than most others.

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What you are building is a vented enclosure. No need to describe the vent. It is already understood that the port will not be straight due to the length needed. Being it is a realitlivy small enclosure I would but th eport and sub on the same face and just turn the enclosure around until which ever position you prefer. Normally the 35 hertz range will be louder by ear. the system would need to be modeled to know how to optimize it.

Opinion? No opinions. You stated you were building a t-line. And with an asinine response like that you won't find any help here until you check your attitude. After that, getting terms correct will be more helpful to those who have knowledge helping what you are trying to achieve.

There are a few subs around that look really similar to the Fi basket but are different. Nick pointed it out a while back but I don't recall the differences.

Is this in the RM or did you find another vehicle? RoadmasterWhen is said install to be complete.

I'd do that. Run a bead of silicone between the deck and the piece of metal and rivit it in.

T-lines don't have volume. And that is nowhere big enough for a 12.

Blackberry season. Time to make some more wine.

She just upgraded.

You use coil overhang as xmax. Not the 70% BL method listed on the site.

I eat 2 or three cups/containers of Greek yogurt a day.

The same hold after about 5 hours.

The ship side of the same rig.

About (2) 18 wheelers per scoop.