Quentin Jarrell

If the installer bought the amp within a year not only will they not fix it but the installer will have his ass in a crack due to terms of employee discount. You can't get around it since JL product has serial numbers and it will be traced back to him.

If that is how it was and you didn't unloosing anything. It's o vinous why it didn't work. The fuse holder that is melted, the wire just fell out or did you remove the wire and screw the nut back in? And the other block that looks like for 4 gauge and the wire was trimmed down and crammed in is no bueno. When you do the big three always leave the factory wires so that if something like this happens your vehicle is still functional.

Tip is fragile bc its pointy. I've never broken one though. It stays sharper but it rusts pretty bad. Have to clean it weekly.

Some parts were literally on fire. But it averaged 150. A barge is 200 feet long 25 feet wide and 20 feet deep

Spontaneous combustion.

The rf prime amps are cheap. Can't go wrong with them.

There is a baby in that pic too

Just wait till. I get my 5k amps with 500 watts rms screen printed on them. They gonna be so under rated I'm gonna be able to get $1,300 for them.

My honest opinion would be to get a cut sheet off the SSA store link for icon or xcon boxes. By the time you fool around with fixing what you have it would be much easier to start over with a design you know is correct. Or get "Alton" to come up with one that better fits your max deminsions.

If the length is 18 then it is tuned ~25 hertz. You have turned the ports into 2 1/2 wide ports with them so close to the back of the box. I can't model the subs but that is a bit low and will be causing a loss of output.

I have very little faith on the actual enclosure specs. Post all the dimensions of the enclosure.

All parts for the Ethos have been ordered and I'm expecting them to be in around 3 months. ETA will depend on if all of the parts leave China before Chinese New Year. So to be on the safe side I expect them to be in Mid to late March. For this order only 12 inch and 15 inch drivers will be available. Terms of presale are as follows. -prices are shipped to the lower 48 12 driver dual one and dual two $300 15 driver dual one and dual two $310 -preorder sales are refundable. I have already paid for the parts and they have been ordered. This presale is to only gauge interest not to use your money to purchase the parts. Any returns will be subject to a $25 refund fee to cover charges I will have incurred on the purchase. -Items purchased will only be shipped to the verified address attached to the paypal account in which the purchased was placed. -presale pricing will be available until I receive shipment at my door. -if interested send me an email to [email protected] or PM me, and I will send a paypay invoice to your paypal account. If you do not recieve an invoice within 24 hours recontact me. The following are the expected final T/S parameters based on FEA modeling and Klippel testing that was done on the prior sample. The may change slightly but not enough to drastically change driver enclosure response. 12 inch driver (dual one) re 1.4 (series) Fs 33.2 Hz Mms 430 grams Mmd 423 grams Cms 53.61 uM/N BL 15.52 motor force factor 172 Qms 7.4 Qes .521 Qts .487 Vas 18.15 liters sd .0491 m^2 xmax 32mm Le 1.83 Mh spl 82.88 @ 1w mounting cut out 11.125" sub OD 12.5" mounting depth 8.5" 1,700 watts rms 15 inch driver (dual one) Re 1.4 (series) Fs 28.5 Hz Mms 490 grams Mmd 478 grams Cms 53.06 uM/N BL 15.52 motor force factor 172 Qms 7.4 Qes .493 Qts .463 Vas 57.71 Liters sd .0804 m^2 xmax 32mm Le 1.83 mh spl 86.08 @ 1watt mounting cutout 14.125 inches driver OD 15.625 inches mounting depth 9.5 inches 1,700 watts rms BELOW ARE A COUPLE RECOMMENDED ENCLOSURES however as always you can change the alignment will work for your application. 12 inch DRIVER BLUE LINE 1.5 cubic feet tuned to 32 hertz F3 27 hertz 3 db ripple gain GREEN LINE 1.2 cubic feet tuned to 27.5 hertz f3 25 hertz 0 db ripple gain RED LINE 2.5 cubic feet tuned to 27.5 hertz F3 23.4 hertz 3db ripple gain 15 INCH ENCLOSURES BLUE LINE 3 cubic feet tuned to 32 hertz F3 at 27 hertz 3 db ripple gain at 35 hertz GREEN LINE 3.2 cubic feet tuned to 25 hertz F3 at 23 hertz 0 db ripple gain RED LINE 5 cubic feet tuned to 28 hertz F3 at 24 hertz 3 db ripple gain at 29 hertz SAMPLE MOTOR SAMPLE MOTOR ON 10'' FRAME SMAPLE MOTOR ON 18'' FRAME 4 LAYER FLAT COPPER COIL

I agree, but alas, no money. Hell, I still have to get the Gcon in something. I do have a SQ driver (and I mean SQ) that will need an unbiased 3rd party analysis done. It will be a beta version however. Motor reaches 20% distortion at ~25mm and the suspension hits 50% compliance at ~20mm.

I'm waiting on confirmation on final pricing of having them assembled. I know I can sell them for $350 shipped. However it might be a bit cheaper. Big brand industry standard is 35 points of margin and that is where I'll stay at. So if the complete package costs a few dollars less then the pricing will reflect that. I'm 95 percent certain the 12 will be $325-$350 and the 15 about $20 more.

You are correct on all assumptions. Cheap meter will be fine you are only trying to find a grounded component an only looking for a beep not any actual figure. Make sure the harness is unhooked from the radio and only probe the speaker wires. You don't want to blow any power fuses. I personally use a Blue Point meter. They run about $200-$250 bucks. The biggest problem is Fi ding good leads with no resistance. With daily use that can be problematic as they like like fail. Even the good blue point and fluke leads.

Had company and took the day off yesterday to do projects. Perhaps glad I haven't seen themNew amps rated at zero distortion per a DD-1http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/59856-what-were-about/?p=1009287I thought I'd put them on the spot, but they just ignored my question altogether. In a way I can understand. People here have knowledge or will at least try to find a knowledgeable source to help them understand. I go to the other forum and post actual Klippel information and I get responses like "you need to send one to joe blow to test and make cool videos". I guess you just got to cater to the different people at different places. It takes too much time and money to teach people otherwise. Although it only costs 150 bucks for Audio Precision to test an amp.

Wow they really use impedance rise as a marketing ploy? But they did work before you hit the bump. More than likely you have a short some where. If a speaker is bad they can even ground out by their mounting flanges. If the headunit still doesn't work. Unhook the radio harness. Set ur DMM to continuity. Touch one lead to a speaker wire at the harness and the other to ground. If you have a short to ground the DMM will beep. If so leave the DMM on until you find the source of the problem.

Had company and took the day off yesterday to do projects. Perhaps glad I haven't seen themNew amps rated at zero distortion per a DD-1

I'm pretty humble so ill say parts and excursion wise they aren't any different than any other driver rated for 32mm xmax as I use the same parts from the same source as nearly every other reputable manufacturer. There are only two things different with this driver 1st the price. They will be priced at ~$350 SHIPPED. 2nd they are specifically designed to work in small enclosures. The 12 in 1.5 cft ported and the 15 in 3cft ported. These volumes tuned to 32 hertz produce the lowest rolloff with only a slight ripple gain in response.

I'll put in my 2 cents since this is not a specific manufacturers forum. Both drivers have close enough mechanical parameters that they would behave the same nearly the same in the same box. Both drivers have the same motor force 288.75 for the sp4 and 288 for the evil. Yes the evil has more BL due to more "L" length in coil wire. However this also increases resistance which has to be taken into account. However the Evil has a slightly higher SPL rating .2 increase. Due to the slightly better Mms weight and motor force ratio due to the 10 gram lighter moving mass. So in a world on paper the Evil would be ever so slightly louder in an enclosure where the drivers would reach xmax at 3,000 watts. However in an alignment that took 3,250 watts to reach xmax the Evil would have an ever so slightly more advantage being the sp4 could not displace as much air due to not hitting xmax. However it would not be enough to be audiblly different due to the minute difference. So as a customer in my opinion it comes down to one thing. Fi prides itself in being a DIY company. It expects its customers to be able to take the info given and help themselves in enjoying the product. Which in return allows for a less expensive product. SSA on the other hand is a dealer network company and prides itself in bring able to work hand in hand and guide the customer. This of course take time and time is money. So there comes into play the slightly higher costs. So it comes down to what type of customer you are. Are you the one that can handle the expected wait time (you are told prior to purchasing) and can use the product at a DIY'er or do you need daily updates on product status and enclosure recommendations and install help.

In laymen's terms an amp amplifies the signal going in to it. Your headunit may put out 2 volts where a line driver may put out 6 volts. Lets just say the amp is capable of amplifying that signal 10 times. Now per the works of Mr Ohm voltage times the current going though a resistor creates power. The resistance of the resistor (speaker in this case) determines current flow. (Not going into that on this explanation) Now a one ohm speaker will always pull the same amount of current (not getting into inductance not going there here). Lets just pick a easy rhetorical number and say a one ohm speaker will allow 10 amps to go through it. Now the amp hooked to the radio turns that 2 volt signal to 20 volts coupled with the current flow of the one ohm speaker you get 200 watts. Now the same amp hooked to the line driver turns that 6 volt signal to 60 volts coupled with the current flow of the speaker you get 600 watts. But all amps have "gain adjustments". This adjustment is there to compensate for the voltage coming from your source. Most amps will work from say .5 volts up to 10 volts. So you just adjust it so the amp puts out rated power. Which is directly related to the voltage it puts out and the resistance of the speaker. Bc a 1 ohm speaker will allow more current than a two ohm speaker the amp doesn't have to multiply that voltage as much to achieve the same output power. (Remember voltage x current = power) Now amps can only multiply that signal so many times. So if the amp will only put out 600 watts at one ohm (the 60volts x the 10 amps) but you want 1,000 watts to ur one ohm speaker the I ly way to get there is to increase voltage. So you use the line driver to bump the input voltage to 10 volts which the amp multiples to 100 volts. However the amp can't accurately handle 100 volts (akind to hooking a 110 volt toaster to 220 outlet) so it puts out clipped signals or could be destroyed. So, to answer the question a line driver is only needed when your input voltage is so low that it falls below the range of the amps "Gain adjustment". Which is normally so low that a line driver is not needed.

A production motor was air mailed to me so I coned it to a 15 and will be breaking it in over the next week to send out for klippel testing and power confirmation. I tested it with a DATS system and got some crazy numbers that just aren't physically possible so after it's broke in I'll just do the measurements by hand. I'm happy with it however the chrome is not as dark as I was expecting (I wanted black chrome) but it's much more durable than the black epoxy paint that was on the original sample. The below pics are a 15 and it weighs 61 pounds for those of you planning on 8 of these in a Scion. No cone shots as I just used plain dust caps. My custom tooled caps won't be in until next week.

Let me have a go at one.. I got 4 5500ds i can strap on one, lol.. But really, stiff suspension is a plus for my overpowering ass. No, overly stiff suspension that's not mated well to the rest of the driver = a really fucked up response curve