Quentin Jarrell

Although you have received the first production driver that should not have been sent along with the sub as I have still not finalized everything with the printers. Was that paperwork included in the box or was that a sticker label on the outside?

Decided I wanted to hide the mounting flange on the sub. Gonna take a ton more filler than I'd like to use but It's not structural. I think it'll look ok.

After 30 days I'll manually redo them. However you will be fine. Yours are being built now.

My insurance is post tax so I can deduct it. However as of last year my medical had to be 10% of my income for it to be deductible. I am being told it is 15 % this year. So I restructure my company so I only get a salery of $1,000 a month and bam I'm over the 15% bullshit formula. If the big multibillion dollar companies do it. I sure the hell will too.

if i calculated right they woul need a 4 cubic foot enclosure

So who's gonna sign up for that new $400 a month $6k deductible insurance? I think I'm gonna stick with my $250 a month $1,500 deductible Blue Cross.

Don't know what that is but do t look good.

The ferrite version's resonse looks close enough from 200-1,500 and are 1/2 as much. looks like a better buy

Tang Bangs look nice. Would do the bamboo drivers though. Not sure if I'd care for the titanium.

no, need to stick with and OD of 7inches and under

The Peerless 830870 4" looks like it would work much better. .07 cft would be much easier to get in the kicks.

y Ignorance. I just don't know what's available. More xmax (if its not PTP) and would use a smaller enclosure. Guess I need to spend a few more hours looking at drivers. As of now the peerless looks like a winner for midbass ported in the doors. Anyone have other suggestions on a 4" versus the Dayton 100?

1. Gary Biggs only ran kicks in his National. 2. I DO NOT GIVE A FUCK ABOUT YALLS DICK MEASURING CONTEST. 3. I'll Oder a pair of the 100's. They would be much much less of a pain in the ass to install. 4. I'll be using each driver on its own channel processed with Rane eq's (already have (2) 60's or DSP's) 5. FS is much more important than imaging. This is a daily driver. I jut want this bitch to wang.

Yes, there are many online calculators. The best source to understand the reasonings and the actual formulas is Vance Dickason's "Loudspeaker Cookbook 7th edition". It can be found on Amazon. Use the search function on the top right of this forum and search minimum port area. Use my name in the search, you'll find I have posted the formulas many times.

Need to know the maximum hight, width, and depth you are willing yo give up.

Post max demons ions of vehicle.

I gonna order a few dayton drivers. On paper it might sound pretty good. RS 150-4 6" driver ~.419 cft tuned to ~ 52 hz f3 of ~51hz in doors RS 125-4 5" driver ~.2 cft sealed in kick panels RS 28F-4 tweeter in kick panels

It's been about a decade since I've had a really nice install oriented system in my daily driver. I wanted something simple in regards to product. Something that customers can actually afford and show what's possible with a smaller budget.

I could fit something like the BMS 5C150 in the pillar but I would be looking at an F3 ~100hz and would wind up having to put something elsewhere to compensate for ~60-100 hz range which would defeat the purpose of putting them in the pillars. I could use the dayton DS 175 in a ported enclosure in the kicks and get an F3 of ~65. The sub will have an f3 of ~15-20 and would prefer not to cross any higher than about 65 hertz

The doors and kick panels. For reference the speaker grill is 6.5 inches OD. The pocket rear of the factory speaker locations would be modified as the enclosure. The hood release would be moved if kick panels were built.

no both assumptions are incorrect. amplifier has nothing to do with either

only difference is there will be less of a chance of premature unloading on the second one. Besides that they are just two different ways that accomplishes the same thing.

The kick panels are also huge and can also run them into the dash and get a good .25 cft gross Doors can be easily modified. Could do at least .25 cft net ported. I'm gonna want a ton of mid bass. I prefer an excessive amount. I could run a 6 in the doors and a 4 and tweeter in the kicks. (Could port kicks). Only concern is since I'm short and a bit farther to the dash than most having the midrange in the kicks might hinder stage height. But I guess I'll just have to mock some boxes up and see what would work better for my seating position.

Placing midrange and tweeter at the apex of 3 highly reflective surfaces is always my last resort.Both midrange and tweeter would be installed on axis. I'd assume that it wouldn't be an issue?

very simple actually. The bottom value is the coil's movement out being right, in being left and at rest in the middle. let's use inductance as an example. Go to zero X(MM) vertical line. Again this is the resting position of the coil. The vertical hash marks is the true resting point of the coil as it is being altered by the suspension. But we wont get into that at the moment. All the parameters are calculated at zero X. Le or inductance is listed at 3.2Mh in the list at the top. So go back to the X(MM) vertical line and go to the point where the "curve" meets this line. And you get 3.2 Try it again and go to the 20mm out position and go up to where the curve hits that vertical line ~2.5mH. This is the inductance when the coil has moved out to 20mm. Do this for all the graphs and you can see how the parameters shift throughout the whole movement of the driver.