Quentin Jarrell

shipping to Waco if the enclosure would be 90 lbs and 38 x 18 x 25 , which is hella huge would be 80 bucks. So you'll be between 50 and 80 for shipping plus packaging.

yea I am a bit more expensive than most, however I have a cell phone posted on here that I answer, and you don't have to wait till Christmas for me to get back to you. And I use better quality materials than most.

yes it's important for a true sq woofer wanting to play anything in upper sub frequencies where increased inductance would make the sub sound muddy. However that shouldn't be a concern for someone wanting 4 18's

cab-o-sil is a silica based thickener akind to the texture of dry mashed potatoe flakes that come in a box. It shrinks a lot so I only use it to thicken my resin to a gelcoat like consistancy so it can lay itself flat, to keep sanding down. Any small drips I cut with a rasor blade before it fully cures. Then most of the time only a little sanding is needed. I use rage gold body filler when needed, but always the samllest amount possible. The fiberglass should be used to create the shape you desire, not by applying gobs of filler. As it's name implies it is only used to fill small imperfections.

after about 15 mins of sanding I sprayed it down with epoxy primer. then about 30 mins of final sanding to prep for paint. I absolutely hate sanding and bodyfiller will crack, so I take a few extra steps to make my life easier. And it's not about craftmanship. A trained monkey can do it. it is all about the proper tools and the proper knowlede.

then a little light sanding. You can see the "bondo" at the bottom. That was the only bodyfiller that was applied to the whole panel because it had a little dip where the fleece had dipped a little.

next step I spead a thin layer of resin mixed with cab-o-sil. It looks like bondo because I used bondo hardener in it. This is what it looks like before sanding

here's a panel after a little scuffing to remove the layer of surface waxx off the resin. As you can see the mat is all one piece. Never use multiple smaller pieces unless you absolutely have to.

google Bryan Schmitt he has a few online tutorials on the correct way to lay glass. He learned his basic techniques from a master boat builder. I learned all my custom install stuff from him and Fukuda back in 20001-2004 when they were with Rockford

I recieved your email this morning. You will be looking at $285 plus shipping. That's the whole sha-bang. kerffed port with your choice of inlay, your color choice of carpet, flushed baffle, and dual sets of 3/8 inch terminal posts.

contact these people http://www.hernon.com/hernonmfg/index.php

The people on this site are getting rediculous. This place is drastically different from two years ago. If you want to have a **** measuring contest go start another thread. What you are doing is not helping the OP one bit. Now for some information that might HELP the OP. As Duran stated most 12's will range between 2-3.5 cubic feet. Giving your sub choice "monsters" as you call them, I would imagine you are looking for a loud daily system. Don't worry about the T/S specs as you will most likely not wanting to fine tune the system perfectly anyhow. Usually the larger the box the louder it will be. If you are going for loud I would use your maximum allowed space while keeping it under 3.5 cubic feet per sub. 14 square inches of port per cubic feet will be plenty of surface area to keep port noise at bay. Tuning around 32-35 hz should give you a nice little peak between 35-45 hertz and should make your roll off plenty low enough for this type of system.

I posted thinking he was comparing dcon vs dcon however, If both enclosures are "ideal" with "ideal" power then basic phisics apply. The 15 has the same bl(motor force) as the 10. The 15 has more mms (physical moving mass plus the driver's airload) than the 10. It's easier on the identical motor to push and pull with more control the lighter mass of the 10, making the sound a little more snappier. Will they both sound good, sure. It is however a technical fact.

???

Two tens. Twice the motor control over one 15.

$200 might get just the nav installed around here. That's if you have your own kit and harness. Depending on where the speakers are going and how much deadening is needed he'd be looking 1000 to 1500 easy. I don't know about other installers but I personally don't charge for my manual labor. I charge for my knowledge. If the customer thinks the guy charging a low ball price is more competant than I am, then they can go get the $200 install. However when they come back to me to fix screw-ups I have no problem charging an additional 50% jackass tax.

we have a really good sale going on with ssa subs plus enclosures. 100 bucks off dual sub enclosures with free shipping on the enclosure. So for your budget going with ssa might be cheaper if you need an enclosure as well.

sale starts now, ends @ 2400 hours on March 31, 2011 purchase any SSA or INCRIMINATOR AUDIO subwoofers and we'll, Knock off $50 off single Pinnacle enclosures and $100 off dual Pinnacle enclosures plus ship the enclosure for free within the lower 48. You can pick any color and any color suede inlay we offer. All subwoofer prices are the same price listed on SSA store. You must pay shipping on subwoofers. We will be updating all enclosure sizes and pricing in the next few days, if specific pricing and sizes are needed before they are updated send a PM For example our forward firing, common chamber, dual 12 enclosure normally runs $270 plus shipping. During the sale you only pay $170 and we will ship it for free. Again you pick and color carpet and suede we offer.

http://hoganhardwoods.com/Default.htm This is where I get all my lumber. They list a lot of technical info on just about everything. Red Oak is heavier than both southern and yellow birch. And is a harder wood. However just because it is denser I'm not sure if it's tensile strength is stronger or not.

The weather is perfect to crawl through Burbon.

^^^^^^^ slant it just enough to put the subs on top of each other with a port centered, top to bottom

I say it like that because 99.99999999999999999999999% of people cannot get around the fact that T/S parameters are for picking and designing transducers that you will actually listen to music with. There is no phisical way you can "listen" to music with 3000 watts in a car. 1. Your sub stage is in a trunk. It is going to mask and color every bit of sound going into the cabin. If you were to take a DCON and play it below xmax meaning below destortion. The remove it, slap in a XCON and adjust the gain down so that it puts out the same level of sound (db) as the DCON you will not be able to phisically hear the difference. The key word is keeping the DCON below distortion. 2. Being your set up is in the trunk and you have an ungodly amount of power going to your sub at listening level there are a few things you need to look at. A. Does the sub have adequate cooling and thermal rating at your power rating. B. Can your sub really take xxx amount of power and stay below xmax in your given enclosure . Because anything over xmax is just distortion and that would defeat the purpose of the highend "SQ" sub. C. Does the sub have enough motor force to overcome it's own suspension and power compression to fully control the cone to prevent odd cone movements. If your sub stage was going in a open location where you had direct line of sight of the sub and played at a level where the listening area didn't vibrate as much as your ear drums, lots of other things come in to play. Like colorness from cone material, rub and buzz, physical placement of the set up itself. All in all damn near every speaker can sound good. However T/S parameters are modefied depending on the environment and enclosure they are going in. I would recomend getting a copy of the loud speaker cook book. Also download a free box calcualator and insert polar opposite drivers in the same enclosure and see what the results are.

For the sub stick with an xcon. There is nothing anywhere near the same price point that compresses as much air while sounding damn good. As far as having one "custom built" that aint gonna happen. And before anyone says "well I can send in my motor to so and so and...........". Nope all they gonna do is take an off the shelf cone, off the shelf edge, off the shelf coil, and off the shelf spider to match something up close to what should sound good. Take advantage of Scott's humpteen years of FEA'ing, designing, and building subs and get what is proving to work. And for the box, two 12's in a small properly built enclosure will be the same size if not a little larger than the one you have now. Surely you can alter the deminsions but it will still take up as much volume. And since you already stated you don't know much who ever builds the enclosure DO NOT say I want it tuned to 30-32 hertz if what you are looking for is a low F3. It is very well possible to build an enclosure with a higher F3 than the tuning frequency. But we're not gonna get into that. So I say two xcon 12's And without doing any modeling. 1.75-1.85 net 14 inches of port per sub tuned around 27 to 28 should end up with F3 around 27ish. But that's off the top of my head

I will be in las Vegas the last week of the month. However as long as I have an e-mail in my inbox from you, you will still receive sale pricing